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Discussion Starter #1
I studied the manual and the excellent write up I found here (author unknown?), and now I am in the process of flushing the brakes. So far I have flushed the front control circuit, which I suspect is for the first time by how dirty the fluid was. For the brake circuits, the procedure calls for use the brake servo motors to pump the fluid while bleeding at the calipers. If possible, I would rather use my hand vacuum pump to vacuum bleed at the calipers since that seems much easier to control. Is there a reason not to do this?

Thanks, Jim
 

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I am sure the xperts will chime in but I do not believe you can use the vacuum bleed process with the servo pump.

I found a post that works great for me but not sure if it was ever put in the hall of wisdom. I place the vent lines on the reservoir caps in a bottle of fluid. The vacuum created by running the servo pump draws fresh fluid into the reservoir and keeps them full. For me this was much easier that messing with the vacuum bleed system.

Attached picture does NOT have the tubes connected to the reservoir cap vents. It is just pictoral reference on how it is done.
 

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Wrencher Extraordinaire
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I don't like vacuum bleeders for a flush as you have no way to seal the bleed nipple and I always see bubbles and that bothers me.

No reason not to use the pumps to flush the fluid. Just hook up the hose and bag (Speedbleeder sells a nice one for $6), elevate the bag and open the bleed port. Keep the reservoir full and fire off the pumps. Stop when the fluid runs clear. Pretty simple.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
OK then, that's what I'll do. Sorry for all the newbie questions & if I'm annoying everyone.

Jim
 

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I did as John said on my '05 and it worked great. You do have to watch carefully though as the pumps move fluid pretty fast (at least on my '05).
 

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The pump makes the flushing procedure very simple - actually, much easier than standard system. No playing with the lever, no futzing opening and closing the bleeder nipple. Just squeeze brake lever, crack the nipple and watch it flush by itself.

Here is a useful tip I came across recently in a thread on ADVrider:use 3 clear tubes (or 6 tubes) at one time on the modulator, to avoid having to move the drain tube as you move from nipple to nipple while doing the control circuits. That worked very well for me.

I just did my '03 RT (servo), '06 GS (servo) and '09 GS (non-servo) and it took me the same amount of time and trouble for each bike. The R1150 and R1200 iABS (servo) systems are the same.



Off-season is the time to do it, as you pull the bodywork for other service as well.

By the way, here is an excellent write-up on the bleeding procedure by Dana Hager:
http://users.rcn.com/dehager/service/service_abs3.pdf.
 

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To make things even easier, I purchased a few 7 mm open-end spanners (just cheapies) and bent them at various angles to fit the bleeders on the modulator unit. Hope this helps.
 

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The clear hoses and having your catch bottle ABOVE what you're bleeding will keep the dreaded air out. It worked great on my 03 but I haven't done the 05 yet........ :D
 

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Discussion Starter #9
bigbear said:
I found a post that works great for me but not sure if it was ever put in the hall of wisdom. I place the vent lines on the reservoir caps in a bottle of fluid. The vacuum created by running the servo pump draws fresh fluid into the reservoir and keeps them full. For me this was much easier that messing with the vacuum bleed system.

Attached picture does NOT have the tubes connected to the reservoir cap vents. It is just pictoral reference on how it is done.
All, Thanks for the useful tips and write up. BigBear's tip of sealing the rear reservoir overflow tubes in clean brake fluid to automatically refill is brilliant! I didn't think of that.
 

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Sorry, it just looks like trouble ready to happen to me. I think I'll still use the Stealer in Kansas City to do the flushing every 2 years on my "03LT's modulator. The wheel circuts are very simple to do , however, so I can do them myself and often with the tube and bag method. :)
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rdwalker said:
The pump makes the flushing procedure very simple - actually, much easier than standard system. No playing with the lever, no futzing opening and closing the bleeder nipple. Just squeeze brake lever, crack the nipple and watch it flush by itself.

Here is a useful tip I came across recently in a thread on ADVrider:use 3 clear tubes (or 6 tubes) at one time on the modulator, to avoid having to move the drain tube as you move from nipple to nipple while doing the control circuits. That worked very well for me.

I just did my '03 RT (servo), '06 GS (servo) and '09 GS (non-servo) and it took me the same amount of time and trouble for each bike. The R1150 and R1200 iABS (servo) systems are the same.



Off-season is the time to do it, as you pull the bodywork for other service as well.

By the way, here is an excellent write-up on the bleeding procedure by Dana Hager:
http://users.rcn.com/dehager/service/service_abs3.pdf.
 

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rdwalker said:
By the way, here is an excellent write-up on the bleeding procedure by Dana Hager:
http://users.rcn.com/dehager/service/service_abs3.pdf.
I scanned this PDF and in it I see a filler adapter (funnel thingy) attached to the ABS unit. Do I *need* that or can I attach hoses to the nipples on the ABS unit and have it suck the new fluid in? My assumption is that I can put hoses on the nipples as shown in the pic and draw fluid in through each one in turn without having to use the filler funnel.

I've never flushed an ABS system, but I've done fluid on cars (excluding ABS) and motorcycle without ABS before.

Thanks in advance - this board has convinced me to do the 12k service myself and has already been a huge help with swapping out my stock springs for hyperpros.

Chris W.
 

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cwarren said:
I scanned this PDF and in it I see a filler adapter (funnel thingy) attached to the ABS unit. Do I *need* that or can I attach hoses to the nipples on the ABS unit and have it suck the new fluid in? My assumption is that I can put hoses on the nipples as shown in the pic and draw fluid in through each one in turn without having to use the filler funnel.

I've never flushed an ABS system, but I've done fluid on cars (excluding ABS) and motorcycle without ABS before.

Thanks in advance - this board has convinced me to do the 12k service myself and has already been a huge help with swapping out my stock springs for hyperpros.

Chris W.
I assume you are doing a 2005 or newer. You don't NEED the funnel I believe. Take off the caps and refill there. But since I do have funnel and am close,you are welcome to borrow it.
Or we could call a tech session and do several.
 

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Hey Dan,

My bike is in a state of nearly complete undress at the moment so it's not going anywhere anytime soon. I just finished spring re-install and changed air filter and plugs yesterday. I need to get a siphon to drain my tank and I'm gonna do the fuel filter. I'm not 100% sure what else I need to do, but I thought rear drive oil was on the list. Also, I expect that I'll take a shot at the brakes before all is said and done. I may take you up on the funnel offer - I'm right at 610 and 10 on the west side.

Is the funnel serving the same purpose as the hoses (i.e. both are methods to get new brake fluid in the ABS unit), or do I have it wrong?

Chris W.
 

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cwarren said:
Hey Dan,

My bike is in a state of nearly complete undress at the moment so it's not going anywhere anytime soon. I just finished spring re-install and changed air filter and plugs yesterday. I need to get a siphon to drain my tank and I'm gonna do the fuel filter. I'm not 100% sure what else I need to do, but I thought rear drive oil was on the list. Also, I expect that I'll take a shot at the brakes before all is said and done. I may take you up on the funnel offer - I'm right at 610 and 10 on the west side.

Is the funnel serving the same purpose as the hoses (i.e. both are methods to get new brake fluid in the ABS unit), or do I have it wrong?

Chris W.
Most of those tubes are outlets for bleeding. But I have not done flushes on a new model.
 

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Can someone else confirm the practice after finishing of rinsing off the modulator & wheel cylinders w water to remove trace amounts of brake fluid that in time will soften paint? I've done this as a routine practice since DOT 4 etc is water soluble but never seen anything written on it. Of course you don't want to allow any water to get into the system.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
rdwalker said:
By the way, here is an excellent write-up on the bleeding procedure by Dana Hager:
http://users.rcn.com/dehager/service/service_abs3.pdf.
Chris - what year is your LT? This write up is for an earlier version ABS, not the Integral ABS on 02LTs & up. Brake fluid is added at the handlebar reservoir for the front control circuit, the rear reservoir rear chamber for the front wheel circuit and the rear reservoir front chamber for the rear control and wheel circuits. No fluid is added at the ABS control unit.

Jim
 

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Jim_McG said:
Chris - what year is your LT? This write up is for an earlier version ABS, not the Integral ABS on 02LTs & up. Brake fluid is added at the handlebar reservoir for the front control circuit, the rear reservoir rear chamber for the front wheel circuit and the rear reservoir front chamber for the rear control and wheel circuits. No fluid is added at the ABS control unit.

Jim

Mine is 2007, so is there a different procedure for the 2005's and up?
 

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There is an addendum for 2005+ models, IIRC.
 

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You really need the funnel for the 05 and up as the reservoirs are on the ABS unit and they are black. The only way to see the level when flushing is to look in the hole, thus the funnel gives you a better visual. As far as the six hoses on the control unit - not needed for a flush just the two tall ports. Now if you have air and need to bleed then all you use the three ports in sequence until all air is out for each circuit with air.

The late 2001 -2004 have two ports on the sides of the ABS unit and they are not easy to get to with out the BMW tool, but again not needed for a flush. Just the two tall ports.
 

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deputy5211 said:
There is an addendum for 2005+ models, IIRC.

I have the Clymer's manual - is that sufficient and/or are there any steps in the manual that you guys have found that are extraneous? Dan has offered to let me borrow his funnel so I should be ok there.

I have searched for, but cannot find, a DIY write up for 2005+ brake flush. Am I just really bad at searching?

Thanks again for all your input.

Chris W.
 
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