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Discussion Starter #1
After looking for pertinent posts I have replied on another thread and started this one. Perhaps someone out there is fighting the same gremlin and this will help you as well.

I too have had my own cruise control problems. Twice the throttle switch(on two different bike) got out of adjustment. This is an easy fix(if you don't mind taking off all the body, and the fuel tank), although you may have to take the switch off and slot the holes further if it will not adjust adequately. However I have a continueing problem with the cruise disengageing when hitting bumps, or just not working at one time or another.

It seems every time I would go to run the test it would begin to work again. Finally it has stopped working all together. After running the test sucessfully the other night I was totally stumped. Then I was waiting for someone sitting in a parking lot and I tried once more. The test wouldn't even begin. Then it occured to me that when I ran the previous test that my handlebars were all the way to the right. Sure enough when I moved them I could run the test sucessfully. So, I have a(or many possible)bad wires in the area of the steering head, or some sort of bad/loose connector in that area.

Does anyone have any experience with such a problem ? Good advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
 

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Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
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Probably the rotation of the bars pulled on the closing cable and put the fuel rail switch out of alignment. You should be able to add some slack to the closer cable up at the grip adjusters and cure the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks,

I have already eliminated all the switches. The problem lies in the wiring. I was looking for input on the cabling that goes from the bars to the frame and if there are any connectors in that area. Problem is that if one wire is having a problem, how long before more do ?

This has been a sporadic problem for about two years and I had originally believed that I had cured it by adjusting the throttle return switch. Then I investigated the speed sensor to no avail. I guess I'll just uncover the wiring and look for a nick or bend.
 

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Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
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The only wires that could cause this without some other obvious effect is the clutch switch wiring. That would have to be shorted. If it was the brake switch the beake lights woul dalso be on when the cruise kicked off.

Or it could be an open in the cruise control switch but the light would go off if that was opening.

Good way to eliminate the throttle rail switch is to just bypass it. If the fault never returns then you have your answer. Next would be to bypass the clutch switch (first set of contacts only). Repeat until you find it.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
It is not any switch. Does anyone know about the wiring in the steering head area ? Is there a wiper and ring like new autos ? Are there any connectors in that area ? I'm leaving in the morning on a trip and I don't have time to make a video to show what's happening or I would.
 

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Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
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All those wires (from both sets of switch gear) feed down to the electrical/relay box under the fuel tank. No clock spring or slip ring used here. Lots of body work and fuel tank to come off to get to it. Maybe an hour of work.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Update,

Just as I suspected there is a wire to the cruise which is damaged in some way. I took off the left handle bar cover and found the wires going down. When I turn the bars to the right these wires are slack. when I turn them to the left they get very tight. Unfortunately I tend to lock them to the left when I get off the bike. If I were more observant I would have previously seen that the cruise only works when the little red led is lit at the control switch. Since I don't have time tonight to disassemble everything and find my wiring diagram to locate the proper wire I managed to get a little more slack in the wires and now the cruise is back to working intermittently. Next week when time permits I'll take it all apart (appears that the entire front body has to be removed along with the gas tank and perhaps the nose cone) and make the repair. I guess there is nothing better than good old get your hands dirty detective work. I hope this knowledge will be of value to someone else. I'd look at how tight the wires get and give them some more slack the next time you have the body off if I were you.

Good riding. I hope to put in 1,000 or so the next few days. It's the last hurrah for this year and I'm hoping for good weather.
 

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I had a similar problem with my cruise control,it would work when it felt like it,I discovered when I moved the bars the cruise light would go on and off at various positions,and this could change by moving the wiring where it twists the most below the handlebars,I suspected a problem wire and bought a second hand switch block and wiring and have had no problems since fitting them,the other thing I found was most of the cruise wiring goes to connectors near the headlight not to the main wiring box under the tank,you could possibly check each wire from there,changing the wiring is a major job,I wanted to change the fuel filter and replace the in tank fuel hoses anyway so I did the lot together.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks Pedro,

I wondered if there was a connector down there somewhere. Did you have to remove the nose fairing ? I might anyway since I've never done my speedometer yet. I moved my wires around the other day and it worked a few times and then stopped again. I went on a 1100 mile trip over the weekend and it was hard on my hand (getting old you know). I'll be fixing the problem before I take anymore longer trips.

Thanks again,
 

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No you don't have to remove the nose fairing,in one picture you can see my old wiring,the yellow connector at the end goes into the electrical box under the tank,the other one is the cruise connector,its on the right hand side of the bike behind the headlight,the other picture shows mine disconnected,the connector hanging down is the one from the cruise switches and the connector with the white in the center is the frame wiring,I think if you suspect the wiring you would be better off replacing it,have you tried a throttle rocker?it makes it easier to twist the throttle by using the palm of your hand,I hate riding without one.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks again,

I see where the connector is now and hopefully with the tank off I can access the wiring and take all the tie wraps off to determine the problem. The dealer near me has at least one hulk that may have the switch cluster and wiring intact so that is a possibility. Otherwise I'll just rebuild it myself since I have plenty of wire, solder and heatshrink :)

I hope I can get to it in two weeks when I get back from seeing the grandkids.

Good riding down under mate !
 

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2000klticon said:
Thanks again,

I see where the connector is now and hopefully with the tank off I can access the wiring and take all the tie wraps off to determine the problem. The dealer near me has at least one hulk that may have the switch cluster and wiring intact so that is a possibility. Otherwise I'll just rebuild it myself since I have plenty of wire, solder and heatshrink :)

I hope I can get to it in two weeks when I get back from seeing the grandkids.

Good riding down under mate !
Although it is possible that your problem may be related to your switch-assy on the handlebar -OR- the wiring, by far this is NOT the most common issue(s) with the cruise-control system. Most problems are related to external switches linked to brakes, clutch, throttle-body.

To help you check the various handlebar switch function (ON-OFF, SET, RES) directly from the connector mentionned in the previous post, you may want to look at the attached PDF document. This would allow you to check in a static manner (in the garage) if you can reproduce an intermittent problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks to the information that Pedro sent I finally got my cruise control fixed last weekend. I've been too busy since October to tear it down and find the broken wires. After 6000 miles of winter riding I thought I should get it fixed before I started doing more long distance riding this summer as my hand gets very tired going for three hours at a time when I'm on the road.

It was a real pain to get at the wires. If you have this problem:
1. Remove the right side fairings and the air inlet pipe.
2.Then remove the handle bar cover on the left side and take the multifunction switch loose.
3. Take all the tie wraps off, there are many and slide the wire down inside the fairing.
4. Unplug the middle connector that has five wires on the right side behind the headlight and cut back the insulation.
5. Repair the wires in the way you find most effective.
6. Put it all back together.

I had two completely broken wires and one partially broken one. I added about a foot of wire and rerouted it so that it will hopefully not ever have this problem again. If you haven't had this problem you might want to follow the wire from the connector and make sure it's not tie wrapped too short so that when you turn your bars all the way to the left it pulls the wires taught.

Thanks again Pedro.
 
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