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Discussion Starter #1
20,000 miles ago I installed the 17 ball bearing in my rear drive on 2000 K1200LT. I didn't measure and set the preload just put the spacers back in. Changed oil every 3th miles and had nice clean oil. On my last oil change at 20,000 miles, oil had very tiny tiny flakes of metal suspended in the oil. Flakes were so small they were floating in the oil and none magnet. Should I ride it or put in a new bearing and set preload?
Small amount of the standard black sludge on magnet.

Jim
 

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kb0lxx said:
20,000 miles ago I installed the 17 ball bearing in my rear drive on 2000 K1200LT. I didn't measure and set the preload just put the spacers back in. Changed oil every 3th miles and had nice clean oil. On my last oil change at 20,000 miles, oil had very tiny tiny flakes of metal suspended in the oil. Flakes were so small they were floating in the oil and none magnet. Should I ride it or put in a new bearing and set preload?
Small amount of the standard black sludge on magnet.

Jim
Jim,
I wouldn't ride far from home.
New metal particles after 20K miles of clean oil changes?
When you replaced the bearing was it because of a failed bearing our just a preemptive rebuild?
The particles were suspended in the oil. Are they magnetic? Or aluminum?
Suggestion: put the bike on the centerstand, push the brake pads away from contact with the rotor or remove the brake caliper and then check the wheel for smoothness. Much as been said about checking for lateral play, but I think roughness during turning of the wheel is more likely to be an early indication of bearing failure.
However, there is no substitute for opening and inspecting the drive.

If it were mine, and knowing what I think I know about these things, I'd open and inspect the drive.
If you're going to continue to ride, don't go anywhere you aren't prepared to stop and trailer.
I've changed a few things in my procedure but the video still is a good reference if you haven't seen it. PM me if you think I can be of any help.
http://www.bmwlt.com/uploads/lt_final_drive_rebuild.wmv
Sorry for your troubles and good luck.
 

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Listen to Curtis. He is a wise man when it comes to rear ends.

Somehow that sounded rather odd.

Seriously, anything other than black fuzzies is probably a sign of impending (and certain) failure. It needs to be rebuilt with the proper pre-load to prevent this from happening again and the sooner the better or you may damage the gear-set which increases the cost.
 

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deanwoolsey said:
Listen to Curtis. He is a wise man when it comes to rear ends.
Somehow that sounded rather odd.
Seriously, anything other than black fuzzies is probably a sign of impending (and certain) failure. It needs to be rebuilt with the proper pre-load to prevent this from happening again and the sooner the better or you may damage the gear-set which increases the cost.
Okay, you got me laughing out loud.
Let's say I have made an effort to learn about KLT Final Drives, reasons for failure and methods for repair.... but know nothing about "rear ends". :histerica
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The rebuild I did was a preemptive rebuild as I figured the 17 ball bearing was the fix. But it now seems the fix is the correct preload. So I'm going to do a rebuild and follow Charlies video for the preload. My plan was to just replace the bearing every 25th miles as part of normal service. So I'll just do it a little early at 20th. I'm going to ride it for about 500 miles and recheck. Want to see if the flakes are magnetic or aluminum. Than replace the bearing. Charlie thanks for the video.
Jim
 

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kb0lxx said:
The rebuild I did was a preemptive rebuild as I figured the 17 ball bearing was the fix. But it now seems the fix is the correct preload. So I'm going to do a rebuild and follow Charlies video for the preload. My plan was to just replace the bearing every 25th miles as part of normal service. So I'll just do it a little early at 20th. I'm going to ride it for about 500 miles and recheck. Want to see if the flakes are magnetic or aluminum. Than replace the bearing. Charlie thanks for the video.
Jim
I can understand your thinking, but I tend towards the other direction. My experience with both airplanes and road vehicles is that the biggest risk of a problem is right AFTER work is done on the airplane or vehicle. I tend to go with the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" school of thought. I tend to believe also that improper preload is the main failure cause and thus if I have a bearing that is properly installed, I'm just going to "ride it!"

I'd be more concerned about getting a new bearing that itself has a problem and thus I'd be taking out a good bearing and installing one that had improper heat treatment or some other invisible defect.
 
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