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I purchased the Fix It Before It Breaks trunk handle kit after talking with a gent who had a his handle break. He had always thought, as I did, that heavy handed users with poorly fitting, high resistance trunk latches were the ones that had broken trunk handles.
"Not so." he said. He had always been careful to close the trunk gently without undue stress. His broke anyway.

So.... I order the kit. Impressive amount of engineering design and fabrication for the price.
And I am happy that I now have it installed.

Posted here is my installation experience so others who might run into the same problem might learn from it.

First I would say that I decided to remove the trunk, rather than try to install the kit with the trunk on the bike. Good choice, I wouldn't recommend trying to do the install on the bike unless you've done it before, the bike is on a lift, and you have good lighting. My install didn't prove to be all that easy. Everything was straight forward up until the paragraph 10) "Mounting this Left Inner Anchor Link is a little bit tricky, but not too bad."

I could not accomplish the step described in paragraph 11). The pin the instructions say to push to the left side as far as it will go, wouldn't move left at all on my bike. I could flex the components a bit with leverage, but I was at risk for breaking the very parts I was supposed to be fixing before it breaks. :histerica

I lubricated, inspected, for some time. I applied as much force as I dared, and no success. I wiggled, jiggled, and worked the latch as described in the instructions. After a careful evaluation of the latch mechanism and the component that was supposed to be pushed left, I concluded it wasn't going to happen on my bike. At least not without drilling out rivets that mount the latch mechanism to the truck body. Maybe I was just missing something but I gave up risking breaking something and went my own way.

Here's what I did: The modification will clearly weaken the mechanism a little, but I decided that with both the inner and outer anchor links in place, my modification wasn't going to be that much of a degradation.

So a cut a slot to the hole for the pin in the left inner anchor link so I could just slide it up onto the pin. This eliminated the need to push the pin to the left, which just wasn't happening on my bike.

Attached are pics of the pin on my bike, a copy instruction photo showing what pin movement is supposed to happen, and the modification I made to the left inner anchor link.

This was my only problem during installation, and the instructions were complete and clear and worked for all other aspects of the install.
 

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CharlieVT said:
............ I could not accomplish the step described in paragraph 11). The pin the instructions say to push to the left side as far as it will go, wouldn't move left at all on my bike. I could flex the components a bit with leverage, but I was at risk for breaking the very parts I was supposed tobe fixing before it breaks. :histerica
Did ya think to mic the shims to see if the factory had over shimmed it?????:wave

Loren
 

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I did mine last year, look good except the power lock does not lock properly. locks the buttom but not the flap, you can lift and open the trunk. Leave nothing in the rear for now.

Tried to push the screwdriver in both sides as stated on the install papers, but no go.

I was going to try to take it apart and try again.

Bowdon
 

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I installed my kit a few months back with the trunk still on the bike. I created a few new cuss words that day trying to remove the circlips. The rest of the installation went fairly well except when I put in the allen bolts. I guess reading the directions to the end would have helped as I have an area on one side where the bolt head made a mark in the paint. Oh well Dr. ColorChip should take care of that!!
 

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My install a few months ago went pretty easy as well, once I took the trunk off the bike-just makes it that much easier. My only real issue was with the main support block or what ever it is called that you slip into place that helps support everything. Mine would not fit, but a few passes with a file in a couple of spots and it slipped right in, smooth as silk.
 

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I installed mine several months ago with no issues except I tried to install it on the bike w/o a lift. That didn't work too well. Took the trunk off and it was so easy....
 

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Back in 2010 during our 4th Annual BMWKLTIBMIIOF- meeting we had made a group purchase of these sets and we acually had a small production line for installing the kits. The bike owner removed the trunk and carried it to one of the two tables we had reserved for the operation. I was the head surgeon and I had an assistant as we installed between 15 and 20 units during less than two hours. After we gained some routine it only took us about 3 minutes to have the set installed staring from the point when the trunk was upside down on the operaton table.

All of the units fit without extra hassle but having extra pair of hands available did help somewhat.

This is really a first class product!

Regards
 

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How about this kit for FREE?

Cut a sheet metal plate the length of the latch and about 1/2 and inch wide.
Drill a small hole in the plate through each corner
Drill matching holes in the latch corners using the plate as a template
Use stainless button head screws and locktite to fasten the plate to the latch.
Add a center hole and fastener if you want to over-engineer it.
Stainless steel screws will bite nicely into the soft zinc latch and hold forever.
Mask off your trunk and spray paint it all black.

Your latch will last and you will spend less than $2

I did this repair after one corner of my latch broke off, I've use the latch for the last 5 years this way and I found all the materials in my scrap parts box. You can do this before or after your latch breaks. It a lot easier if your latch does not break first.
 

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tomandmelanie said:
How about this kit for FREE?

Cut a sheet metal plate the length of the latch and about 1/2 and inch wide.
Drill a small hole in the plate through each corner
Drill matching holes in the latch corners using the plate as a template
Use stainless button head screws and locktite to fasten the plate to the latch.
Add a center hole and fastener if you want to over-engineer it.
Stainless steel screws will bite nicely into the soft zinc latch and hold forever.
Mask off your trunk and spray paint it all black.

Your latch will last and you will spend less than $2
:worthless
 
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