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Discussion Starter #1
Well, I am in the home stretch on my maintenance stuff. All I have left to do is the fluid change on the brakes and the clutch. I wanted to ask a few questions before I got started though.

1. I am going off the Hager/Gilman article for a 2005, is that correct?

Where do I get the bleed screw for the clutch? Is it normally stocked at auto parts stores, or do I need to go to the dealer?

2. I am assuming here I can use the standard bleeder screws on the bike. I am doing it myself with no help. Will I introduce air into the system by releasing the brake pedal/handle and then closing the bleed screw? I do not have access to an IV Bag, but I think I can rig something that puts the drain container above the bleed screw.

3. Just how in the heck do you get the funnel on to the front wheel circuit resevoir? It looks like there is a ton of stuff in the way, do I just sort of move it around to get the funnel seated?

Thanks for any and all help I can get.
 

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2005 K1200LT
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I don't know about the article unless that is the one for an RS - very similar to the LT. Ok I checked and that is a good article.


1. Bleed screw is a 10mm x 1 but it must be short from the threads to the inner tip or they won't engage. Helps to file a bit off but don't make it flat. Actually it will gravity drain if you remove the grub screw and use something to press open the check ball in the fill adapter.

2. Yes you do't need speed bleeders but I do recommend their $6.00 bag and hose. Makes the job so much easier. Even if you don't have a bag get enough tubing so you can run a loop higher than the caliper. Then just open the bleeder, turn on the key and apply either brake. The servos will pump the fluid out. Watch the funnel and don't let it empty until you are done with that wheel. Make sure you the funnel in the correct reservoir. The taller one is the front wheels.

3. If you have the Beemerboneyard funnel cut it off about 1 inch up from the fitting and install some Tygon (or other brake fluid resistant) tubing to join it back up. Makes it so much easier to screw in around the frame. Gives it some "flex". Don't pour the fluid in to fast at first or it will air lock, fill the funnel but none is going into the reservoir. If that happens just loosen the fitting and burp out the air.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Mr. Zeiler.

Where do I find the Tygon tubing?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Almost done! :dance:

Not too bad afterall. I think I did it right - the pedals still are stiff and the servo seems to kick in. IIRC it gears up as you press harder (which it still does).

I just have the front control circuit to go and I am done. I would be posting this after I was done, but I had to clean up and go get new screws for the handlebar resevoir. I had a dealer do it the last time and they stripped out all four screws. :mad:


Now, on to the clutch. Once I am done with the front control circuit I will change the fluid in the clutch. I have the BMW bleeder valve, so I need to use the old method of:

Squeeze the clutch handle
open bleeder
close bleeder
release clutch handle

Right?

I know Mr. Zeiler indicated I could just let the clutch fluid gravity drain, if that is easier how would I do that?
 

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2005 K1200LT
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mowoc said:
Almost done! :dance:

Not too bad afterall. I think I did it right - the pedals still are stiff and the servo seems to kick in. IIRC it gears up as you press harder (which it still does).

I just have the front control circuit to go and I am done. I would be posting this after I was done, but I had to clean up and go get new screws for the handlebar resevoir. I had a dealer do it the last time and they stripped out all four screws. :mad:


Now, on to the clutch. Once I am done with the front control circuit I will change the fluid in the clutch. I have the BMW bleeder valve, so I need to use the old method of:

Squeeze the clutch handle
open bleeder
close bleeder
release clutch handle

Right?

I know Mr. Zeiler indicated I could just let the clutch fluid gravity drain, if that is easier how would I do that?
Hey everyone just calls me John. Congrats on flushing your brakes. If you messed it up the lights will continue to flash so if they go out you are good to go!.

Just put the bleeder in and you will see what gravity does. Again that speed bleeder bag is indespensible for these tasks, but a loop in the collection tubing (so the air can't get back in) will accomplish the same thing. Then just pump away.

Oh and I got my yellow Tygon tubing at an ACE hardware (lawnmower section).
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well, a new wrinkle in the process.

I accidently knocked over the brake fluid and some spilled around the center stand. I washed it down with a bunch of water and wiped it up as best I could. I swear, I must be cursed when it comes to this stuff....

Do I need to do anything else? Will the brake fluid harm the center stand itself?
 

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No it won't hurt the center stand. The only thing that may happen is the black paint may end up peeling off. Brake fluid will attack paint.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks, that is what I thought. Worst case I will hit with krylon or rustoleum.

Now, on to something I have not noticed before, and it may be nothing.

When I turn the key, I hear the brake servo intialize, but I also hear a deep rumbing (like the fuel pump? :confused: )

I have not noticed the deep rumbling before, is it normal? The only thing I did with the fuel system was replace the quick disconnects, so I am not sure how I would have messed anything else up.

Oh, and I took it off the center stand today - I had brakes! At least I did not completely hose them. I will see if the light goes out once I get it out on a test run. Might not be today, stupid rain. :mad:
 

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Does the rumbling continue or stop? If the fuel pump, you should hear it charge up and then shutdown once the system in pressurized. At least, I think that's the way it is supposed to work.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
It does stop.

Like I say, it may have been there, but I did not notice the noise before, but.....

I am uber paranoid as I do this stuff right now. I am in uncharted territory as I am not always sure how to fix everything on this bike - Man is it complex!
 

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Trust me, you'll start to hear all sorts of things now that you're doing your own work. But complexities is what makes you love 'em, female and motored. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Right, I forgot if its has ***s or a motor you will have problems with it.....

So, I willl go out and ride it to see what happens. Can't today though.

We just lost power for about an hour, and I saw two tornados touch down:

(see the picture below) you can just barely see it as it disapates.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
took it around the block today.

The brake light went out! :dance:

I must have done something reasonably right.

Thanks to both John and steve for your help.

Now, a few moping up questions:

1. It looks like the left front caliper might be leaking from the banjo bolt, but it could just be residual stuff from the change. I have no idea what to do but watch it closely. If you have some other suggestions I would appreciate it.

2. I am throwing large amounts of brown smoke when I hammer the throttle. :eek: I think this may be due to the fact that I just replaced the battery, and the BC is still relearning.
Does this make sense? Or did I maybe mess something else up?

3. Finally, any pointers on getting the two inboard nozzles on the front control circuit? Man, I could not find a wrench that made me comfortable opening and closing those bleeder valves.
 

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I can only answer Question 2, mine blows brown smoke when I nail the hammer. Seems to me I also remember following a couple of LT of different year makes than mine and they did too.
 

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You may need to recalibrate the throttle. Disconnect the battery for about 30 minutes. Reconnect it, turn key to on position, but do not start the engine. Twist throttle all the way open, then all the way closed two times, then turn key off. Then start bike up and go for a short ride.

This recalibrates the throttle. It probably won't fix the smoke problem, but when i did it my fuel milage improved be 4 to 5 mile per gallon.
 

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TPS reset will not fix the brown smoke on hard acceleration. It's just the Motronic protecting the engine with a rich mixture.
 
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