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I am excited because I just did my first oil change on my 2000 LT. I just recently bought the bike, and had been wanting to change all the fluids. I first called the local BMW dealer in Seattle, about 90 miles and a ferry ride away, and was impressed at the price..and decided to do it myself, with a little help from the vast resource of this incredible forum..I did check with them, and they had a record of the bike having the 11K service, and a "check" at 14K, not sure what that was about. The bike has 18K on it now, and the previous owner said he didn't ride it much for the last 2 years. I drained the engine oil, and it was BLACK...gross! I also did the final drive oil, it looked real clear, some very fine particles on the magnet, but no chips or anything you could really discern...happy about that! I had gone to the local Auto Zone for the 15W-50W mobil 1, and they had a filter socket that seemed like it fit the filter, but when I tried to get the old one out, the socket just spun around on top of it....It is a cheap stamped metal socket, so I thought about it, it just needed to be a little smaller...BINGO..I got a metal punch, and punched a dimple at every flat on the socket, and it made it fit just great on the filter, problem solved for a 4.99 tool.
I just got back from my check ride, and it is amazing how the engine sounds so much quieter, and it was never low on oil, I think the oil was just crap-crap-crappy. I had thought I heard the timing chain rattling around down there before, but now, no rattle, just smooth and quiet.....I love that sound!!! My next project is to open the lid on the tupperware, and do the Transmission. The only thing that looks tricky is the draining of the oil, do you really have to remove the exhaust brackets and all that other crap, or is there some cool trick to draining the transmission? like maybe have scotty beam it up?
Anyway, I just wanted to say thanks to all for this excellent forum. I keep thinking about how BMW stands for Biker, Mechanic, W---------, Haven't figured out what the W stands for yet....Think about it :wtf: Y'all take care now...
Rich C
 

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The only issue that is involved in the gearbox oil change is finding a 14mm allen 3/4 socket to torque the bolt to spec. I believe I found mine in a kit at harbor freight. You do not, as I recall have to remove any brackets, put the bike on the stand and look for the recessed 14mm key way. if you can get a tool on it, your golden. just make sure to make a path for the oil to drain to, or you;ll have it all over. any questions as, I got my '00 a year+ ago and learned all I know (no comments needed) from this and others.. You've got a source to knowledge use it!
 

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The fill hole for the trans is behind the right front footrest mounting plate; make sure you find it before you drain the fluid.
 

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Old Slow Guy in A Fast Car
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Welcome to the LT family
There IS one Exhaust bracket that WILL have to come off. It is a "round " bracket about 1 1/4 diameter by 3 inches long with a 1/4 inch diameter wire loop coming off of it. It is held on by 2 bolts. It is just above the center stand. The good news is you DO NOT have to reinstall it. Many of us have not. Mine came off 3 years & 40,000 miles ago. :D It is a little messy do to the center stand being just below the drain plug. Go to Walmart & get some "Puppy Training Pads" . Put some on the floor in front & behind the center stand to soak up the oil. Remove the right side foot rest plate to find the filler plug. the plate had 3 allen head bolts & 2 T25 torx holding it on.
 

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katnapinn said:
Welcome to the LT family
There IS one Exhaust bracket that WILL have to come off. It is a "round " bracket about 1 1/4 diameter by 3 inches long with a 1/4 inch diameter wire loop coming off of it.QUOTE]

+1
Keep forgetting... Not everyone has a Remus exhaust! :D
:dance:
 

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shoswell said:
The only issue that is involved in the gearbox oil change is finding a 14mm allen 3/4 socket to torque the bolt to spec. I believe I found mine in a kit at harbor freight. You do not, as I recall have to remove any brackets, put the bike on the stand and look for the recessed 14mm key way. if you can get a tool on it, your golden. just make sure to make a path for the oil to drain to, or you;ll have it all over. any questions as, I got my '00 a year+ ago and learned all I know (no comments needed) from this and others.. You've got a source to knowledge use it!


Great to know this.. 2nd year with my obviously used 2000 LTC 78,000 miles and added another 7,000 this summer. Changed oil last fall, no problem. Changed brake pads, front and back, bled the brakes. Now as I approach these fluid changes, beginning to think I might be able to do both the Gearbox oil and Rear Wheel drive oil. Save a boat load of money. Every time I get my nose into this thing, I start thinking I might be able to bite off more service work myself. Have the manual, tools to do it.. just need the time and patience I guess. Does anyone know best practice on type of oil,, manual says Brand-name hypoid gear oil, SAE 90, API class GL5. Is this true for both jobs? Rear wheel drive and also gearbox oil? Should I pick this up at my dealer or go to Wallyworld? Can anyone think of likely fluids to change out,, brake fluid done, clutch fluid done, radiator flush done. Also, if I can do this, next step will be to look at replacing shocks... But must admit that tupperwear removal scares me. I did not take shop class in highschool but saw the old man swear enough times during the winter months trying to change a water pump on cars back in the 60/70's. .
 

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good for you getting your hands dirty. as for the oil(s) just order the kit from beemer boneyard. it will have everything needed. no questions. bleeding the brakes and clutch are standard dot 4 that you can pick up at most auto stores. as for the tupperware, look to the form for the locations of the different size screws and take it slow the first time. its old hat with me at this point but we all started where you are. keep truckin along. I almost have the energy to replace my own tranny seal. its addictive aint it...
 

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shoswell said:
The only issue that is involved in the gearbox oil change is finding a 14mm allen 3/4 socket to torque the bolt to spec. I believe I found mine in a kit at harbor freight. You do not, as I recall have to remove any brackets, put the bike on the stand and look for the recessed 14mm key way. if you can get a tool on it, your golden. just make sure to make a path for the oil to drain to, or you;ll have it all over. any questions as, I got my '00 a year+ ago and learned all I know (no comments needed) from this and others.. You've got a source to knowledge use it!
Depending on what 14mm allen socket you find, you may or may not be able to actually get the entire socket and ratchet on the drain plug (you only have about 3 inches of depth to work with). I ended up removing the little pin that held the 14mm tool into it's 3/8" base, pulling the tool out of the base then sliding a 14mm box end wrench on the tool. Worked great.
 

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I bought this 3 piece set from Pep Boys for $12.00. I use a 14MM box wrench as the handle and it works fine. It only takes a few minutes to remove the exhaust bracket so putting it back on seemed the right thing to do. Some other guys in the forums have sugested sucking the fluid out the fill hole with a small pump. I may consider this if I change it more frequently than 12K, say every 6K. But on the 12K intervals I will pull the plug to get every drop out. Both the tranny and the final drive take so little oil I may do them all at every oil change.

As you can see from this last image, there is no way I know of to get to the drain plug without removing the bracket. Even if you could, imagine the mess it would make.
 

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