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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
If anyone has been following my postings you know I've had my LT for a short time now. The Harley Dealer said it was fully serviced when I bought it with 36.5K miles on it. I put another 1K miles and changed the oil in the engine and final drive. "YUK!" They lied. The oil was so dark and dirty. Fortunately there were no "sparkles" in the oil. The FD was pretty clean and canged it anyway.

The oil change took "all day" to perform. Biggest problem was getting the old oil filter removed. As everyone knows it's up in the oil pan with limited space to get a filter wrench up in there. After 3 trips to Autozone, I used a style "A" end filter remover to get it out. It was still too big so I used four layers of paper towels laid on filter's bottom and hammered the end filter on to the end. Used 3/8" ratched and backed the filted off. I'll "never" use an original filter again. For those who have not done it yet I listed the oil and filter I used.

1. K&N Filter #KN-163 filter (Has a nut welded on bottom for easy-off / easy-on)

2. Castrol 20w-50 oil ( Has recommended SF & SG API codes)

3. 5qt drain pan (I used an old 5qt cooking pot. It slides right under bike)

4. Use drain plug first then open filter access plate second. Very little mess if you do it in that order

5. Almost forgot. Buy a special long neck funnel. I bought a Wal-Mart plastic one and it "stunk!" Get one with flexable neck or your going to have a problem putting the oil in.
 

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Most of us experienced some issues with their oil filter. To help gain additional leverage on getting the filter off, take off the lower right side of the tupper. This helps A LOT when gaining some leverage.

Hope this helps and welcome to the group.

Glenn
 

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RonHolly said:
If anyone has been following my postings you know I've had my LT for a short time now. The Harley Dealer said it was fully serviced when I bought it with 36.5K miles on it. I put another 1K miles and changed the oil in the engine and final drive. "YUK!" They lied. The oil was so dark and dirty. Fortunately there were no "sparkles" in the oil. The FD was pretty clean and canged it anyway.

The oil change took "all day" to perform. Biggest problem was getting the old oil filter removed. As everyone knows it's up in the oil pan with limited space to get a filter wrench up in there. After 3 trips to Autozone, I used a style "A" end filter remover to get it out. It was still too big so I used four layers of paper towels laid on filter's bottom and hammered the end filter on to the end. Used 3/8" ratched and backed the filted off. I'll "never" use an original filter again. For those who have not done it yet I listed the oil and filter I used.

1. K&N Filter #KN-163 filter (Has a nut welded on bottom for easy-off / easy-on)

2. Castrol 20w-50 oil ( Has recommended SF & SG API codes)

3. 5qt drain pan (I used an old 5qt cooking pot. It slides right under bike)

4. Use drain plug first then open filter access plate second. Very little mess if you do it in that order
Ron,
Sometimes it pays to go to a BMW secondary supplier and get everything you will be needing ahead of time.

Next time try: http://www.beemerboneyard.com/11421460845ckk.html

They have everything you need, and it will all work together!
 

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Ron, just as an FYI, the brick engine oil gets dark real quick anyway. So the fact that it was dark and black when you drained the oil does not necessarily mean that the dealer lied. But they may have.

John
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Can someone give me the "quick" way to change my gear box lube? (Step by step for the newbie!) I just know me and my buddy can do it!
 

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RonHolly said:
Can someone give me the "quick" way to change my gear box lube? (Step by step for the newbie!) I just know me and my buddy can do it!
PM sent.

Oh, and you guys need some longer shirts, or, better yet, hide whenever you see a camera! :histerica
 

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ron i think you need/should buy a repair manual it seems your not affraid and are able to do your own work. they are sooooo helpful when it comes to the lt. when it comes to the tranny oil change there is a special drain funnel required and you need to make it and it costs almost nothing to do.but without it you will have a big mess.

i use my manual almost every time i touch the bike gives all step by step c/w torque spec,s
 

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Here's a tip that you may find useful ... it sure saved me a lot of grief back when I owned an LT.


I drilled three (3) holes in my oil filter wrench (see red dots).



Then, I would drive three (3) self-tapping sheet metal screws up into the OLD oil filter. No shims needed ... no more oil filter slippage either.



HTH
 

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Where did you come up with that KN 153 oil filter number?

Simply have the same threads?

20 - 50 oil is a little on the heavy side unless you are running in extreme heat.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
gunny said:
Where did you come up with that KN 153 oil filter number?

Simply have the same threads?

20 - 50 oil is a little on the heavy side unless you are running in extreme heat.
That's a KN-163 not 153! I use the 20w-50 because I live down in central Florida and it's hot year round.
 

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RonHolly said:
Can someone give me the "quick" way to change my gear box lube? (Step by step for the newbie!) I just know me and my buddy can do it!

Ron, I am over in Orlando only a short drive up the road.

If you want to come over we can get the gear box all taken care of in 15 minutes.
 

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pauleknight said:
Ron, I am over in Orlando only a short drive up the road.

If you want to come over we can get the gear box all taken care of in 15 minutes.
If you hold a tech session like that, can I come watch? I have a 2003 and haven't gotten the courage up to tackle that job yet.
 

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CoachA said:
If you hold a tech session like that, can I come watch? I have a 2003 and haven't gotten the courage up to tackle that job yet.
CoachA, I cannot say that I am any form of an expert, but the three main fluids are a breeze....

Any weekend or most week day afternoon you might want to come over get these done just let me know.

I have done clutch fluid, final drive, gear box, and oil on a regular basis....

For the brakes I prefer to have the dealer perform the bleed on the brakes.

I also have done brake pads front and rear so I can help on these anytime..
 

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K&N site does not list an oil filter for a 2005 but does for a 2002 - anyone know why that might be? I thought the oil filters were the same for all years.....
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
pauleknight said:
Ron, I am over in Orlando only a short drive up the road.

If you want to come over we can get the gear box all taken care of in 15 minutes.
Seems like you may have started something! I'm always down for some of the "OJT" LT fluid training. Besides it's always good to have an excuse for taking a nice drive over to the Orlando area. LoL Can't this weekend but maybe Saturday the 11th??? "DanDiver" has been a tremendous help to me and he lives here in the Tampa area but I don't want to wear out my welcome. Besides, it's nice to meet fellow LT owner! HaHa Maybe "CoachA" and I could meet up and motor on over to see ya? Thanks, Ron
 

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There is an oil filter wrench made by Hazet which has been on the market for years. It is made specifically for K Bikes. I would suggest going online for a source in your area and buying the tool. Once I bought same, I stopped having trouble with filters. While there are work-arounds to almost anything, the right tool for the job is the only way to go. P.S forget the cheap auto parts store stuff. You could get a hamburger for the same price and not be any further behind.

Regards,

Will
 
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