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Discussion Starter #1
What size wrench does it take to remove the final drive service plug and is it SAE or Metric? Secondly, mine now is stripped. Any suggestions how to remove it? Vice-grips don't help any except to mark up the plug
 

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1999 LTC
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What size wrench does it take to remove the final drive service plug and is it SAE or Metric? Secondly, mine now is stripped. Any suggestions how to remove it? Vice-grips don't help any except to mark up the plug
Drain plug is 19mm socket. Install torque is 23nm, with crush washer.
Fill plug is h6 torx. Install torque is 23nm, with crush washer.
SAE90 grade gear lube at .24 qts, or to bottom of fill threads.
 

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I suggest you try applying some heat. Hopefully you haven't rounded all the corners off and use a 6 point socket.
 

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I suggest you try applying some heat. Hopefully you haven't rounded all the corners off and use a 6 point socket.
I'm with Gordon. I would try a heat gun. Heat around the plug, not directly on it. You want to have the housing expand more than the plug.

I don't know which plug you are working on, drain or fill. I always remove fill first as I don't want to disable the bike by draining a housing I can't refill. Vise Grips will grab almost anything, but you need to meet three criteria.
1. They must be real Vise Grips, not knock-off locking pliers from Harbor Freight.
2. They must be in good shape with reasonably sharp teeth, not well-worn rounded teeth.
3. The pliers must be TIGHTLY applied. I mean with the screw turned in so far that it takes both hands to barely get the handle to lock.

Then trash the plug and buy a new one. Check the housing for thread damage and clean up with a tap if necessary. Use a good quality calibrated torque wrench (again, not Harbor Freight) to install the plugs. Do not exceed the BMW torque spec!

Personally, I find BMW's torque values on the high side for the fastener size. I now routinely reduce the torque by 10% on reusable fasteners. I use the book values for one-time use fasteners such as clutch cover bolts, flywheel nut, etc., structural fasteners such as swingarm pivot bolts, and any bolt or nut that is setting a bearing preload. Otherwise, 90% of the book value is sufficient to keep the fastener in place, yet makes it less likely to damage threads or make the fastener impossible to remove after a few years. However, this is just my judgement and you will have to make your own.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thank you all for the replies but I used an easy-out and got the plug out. I'm going to get a replacement tomorrow. Very disappointed on this lack of quality. I torqued it per the book last time, but it stripped out today when I wanted to do a pre-ride inspection. I might just do what Voyager said and reduce the torque value by 10%
 

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Thank you all for the replies but I used an easy-out and got the plug out. I'm going to get a replacement tomorrow. Very disappointed on this lack of quality. I torqued it per the book last time, but it stripped out today when I wanted to do a pre-ride inspection. I might just do what Voyager said and reduce the torque value by 10%
Just be sure you use the correct scale on your torque wrench.

I think someone posted earlier that 23 Nm is the correct torque value. I didn't confirm personally, but am assuming this is correct. 23 Nm = 17 lb ft. If you mistakenly set the wrench for 23 lb ft that is 32 Nm which would be nearly 40% over spec.

BMW fasteners are pretty good quality. I don't think their published torque values would ruin a fastener unless a low quality tool was used which didn't fit the fastener tightly.
 
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2005 K1200LT
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It is really in the loosening technique. A slow pull will almost always round off a worn or corroded hex hole. Use the right size bit and snap it open with a quick pull. Everything on the LT is either metric or Torx.
 
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