BMW Luxury Touring Community banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
2000 lt. Yesterday I noticed that there was a drop of oil on the ground after I parked from a 160 mile ride. I cleaned it up and could tell that it had been seeping a bit for a while. Today I took it to town and back and there was another drop of oil. I drained the FD and there was just a little black on the bolt with fairly clean oil. Read up on it a bit here and decided to pull the final drive. The oil was leaking from the boot on the driveshaft. It appears that the seal has gone bad but will need some advice as to replace or rebuild the unit. I am not afraid to try as i have done bevel gear bearings in my Kawasaki but if it isn't to costly I would rather someone else do it. Any help would be geat.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
I just finished the rebuild on my 2000 R1200C. Buy the parts & do it yourself for about a tenth what the dealer will charge. I called a shop for an estimate if I pulled it off and had them rebuild it then I reinstall it. They said $1000, I said thanks but no thanks and did it myself. There should be plenty of online instructions and videos on the LT--go for it!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,355 Posts
Make sure that you know where the leak is. Oil in the FD boot can also be coming from the trans output shaft seal so make sure the swing arm is dry up the tube where the drive shaft comes down.

Once you are sure it is the pinion seal, that by itself are not too much trouble as long as you have a couple special tools for the job. You will need something to keep the crown wheel stationary while you torque on the spindle nut. That nut is a 36MM socket. Heat will need to be applied. I welded up a fixture similar to what is displayed in the Clymer manual to hold things. you might be able to do it with a single piece of angle iron by drilling the holes for 2 of the crown bolts and another to hold it to the FD strut mount with some spacers and a long bolt. Be careful of the length of the 12mm ( i think) bolts threading into the crown wheel that they are not bottoming out when tightened.

You will also need a spindle nut socket for the lock ring and this is where the seal is actually installed, inside the lock ring.

I did some searching and a 62MM spindle nut socket is rare as hens teeth and also danged expensive. I found some reference to someone, possibly CharleVT who took a very cheap 2 3/8 spindle nut socket and then did some welding on the 4 lugs to expand them out to be 62mm so I did the same but only after I got the lock ring out so I could use it as a template to make sure it fit. The 2 3/8 will get the lock ring out but be careful as it only covers about half the surface area of the lock nut teeth and you can round them out very easily with the reduced contact area. It tightened much easier with the full contact teeth than removing with then half contact.

Once you get the lock ring out, this is as far apart as you really need to go. Cleaning the lock ring threads might be more difficult if you leave it in that state and don't pull the pinion completely out but It probably can be done.

Drive the old seal out and replace inside the lock ring and you are ready to reassemble.

The lock ring threads are the outer seal for the pinion assembly. I used Permatex 85420 Permashield Fuel Resistant Gasket Dressing & Sealant, 2 oz Tube to seal those threads. Got it from Amazon but you should be able to find it at an auto store. The threads must be sealed with with a sealant like this.

With those tools, it is not a difficult job to replace that one seal if you are not doing a full rebuild.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
I am sure the fluid is coming from the FD. When I shine a light up the tube it is dry. I would think as long as I am in to it I would want to rebuild everything as it needs. The bearings and seals at least. Will I need to order parts from BMW or is there another source I can use and is there a parts list for this on the forum.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,355 Posts
I am sure the fluid is coming from the FD. When I shine a light up the tube it is dry. I would think as long as I am in to it I would want to rebuild everything as it needs. The bearings and seals at least. Will I need to order parts from BMW or is there another source I can use and is there a parts list for this on the forum.
Some parts you may need to order from BMW. the main parts you will need to do a rebuild are the crown bearing, main seal and the pinion seal. If you intend to replace any of the other bearings, then a full setup of everything is required and if you haven't done it before, I would just pack it up and send it to Dave (Saddleman) and have him do it for you. He is also in NC so you might be able to just drive it to him and save shipping cost.

If you go ahead and do it yourself, you will need to do some measuring to determine what shims are needed for the new bearings you replace and adjust the gear interference and backlash and also the preload on the interior taper bearing.

Max BMW has the parts list in the FD and the list will vary depending on what you replace and how much you do.

Minimum parts list would be, seeing your pinion seal is leaking.

MAX BMW FICHE
33 11 7 665 838 SHAFT SEAL - 35X47X7 0.02 1 $14.05

33 12 1 242 211 GROOVED BALL BEARING - 85X120X18 1.15 1 $122.06

33 12 7 663 482 SHAFT SEAL - 85X110X10 0.13 1 $36.18


And likely some shims to adjust the preload on the taper bearing assuming the taper bearing and seat are in good shape and not lose on the shaft. The shims can not be determined until the measurement is taken. You might be one of the lucky ones and your original shims may be correct. If you are not and yours is like mine being .2.. over shimmed, then you need to get the correct shims and adjust the pack for the proper preload.

I am going to say it again, it is easy to get this wrong so if you have not done it before and don't have all the proper tools, you are better off letting Dave do it for you. You will get a quality job at a reasonable price for what he does. There are several other things you will need to be aware of to look for with these so it isn't just slap a new bearing and seal in and you are done.

What say you Danny? How much do you want to do on this FD?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,355 Posts
I think I will let Dave do it. 😁
Good choice as I have been in 2 already both my own.

Give him a PM and discuss the details. Not sure if you are close enough to drive it over or not.

Cheers.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,546 Posts
Contact Dave (Saddleman) He rebuilds them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
343 Posts
Saddleman is my new hero. Got the FD back today and and installed. Thanks again BMW COOL 1200LT you have awesome again.
I believe you were FD rebuild #80 for Saddleman. I was #79. Knowing he rebuilt it prior to a big trip I depart on later this week is one less thing to worry about.

Rob, 2000LT
Navarre, FL
 

·
Enjoy The Ride
Joined
·
3,988 Posts
I believe you were FD rebuild #80 for Saddleman. I was #79. Knowing he rebuilt it prior to a big trip I depart on later this week is one less thing to worry about.

Rob, 2000LT
Navarre, FL
Danny's was number 82 & number 84 will be done this weekend. Thanks everyone for all the Final Drive work.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
215 Posts
got my spare on the shelf, any way to test off vehicle that it is a good one?
my 2000 and the spare seem so smooth that maybe they were rebuilt early in life
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,489 Posts
I have one of Saddleman's rebuilds in a box in my garage for my 02.. Bought it from another ex LT rider 2 yrs ago. Only have 34K on a, so far, clean rear unit. Peace of Mind !
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,355 Posts
got my spare on the shelf, any way to test off vehicle that it is a good one?
my 2000 and the spare seem so smooth that maybe they were rebuilt early in life
If you have the proper tools and know what to look for, you can take it apart and inspect it and check the shimming. That will not tell you if the crown bearing is in the beginning stages of failure though as you can't really look at the races without tearing the bearings apart. usually, the only indication you get is metal flakes on the magnet, not just the normal fuzz. If you determined that the crown bearing was over shimmed during the inspection, then a full rebuild would be in order and a proper setup. Other issues could cause dark oil meaning aluminum is suspended.

You can take your chances and have is as an emergency spare in whatever condition it is in, intending to have the other rebuilt if your primary fails and use your spare for a short time in the interim. Or, you could just go ahead and do a preemptive rebuild on it, replacing the crown bearing and setting all the parameters to spec along the way as long as no other issues are present and if the other fails, swap to the rebuilt one and then do the rebuild on the failed one so you still have a spare.

I pulled my spare totally apart, checked everything and it appears to be within spec so I replaced the seals and put it back together as a temp spare. With no actual history, I probably wouldn't just swap it out and use it if I didn't have to but it is there if I need it.
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top