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Discussion Starter #1
In some cases a loose rear wheel is due to loose final drive pivot bearings. While just retorquing the pivots will eliminate the looseness, it is very likely that the bearings are damaged. During final drive rebuilding I find that the pivot bearings are "notchy" and routinely change them. Here's the method I use. I find this an easier method than putting the final drive into the shop press because it is hard to keep everything aligned while holding the drive in the press.

Changing the pivot bearings is easy once the final drive is removed.

Select a socket that fits inside the final drive housing behind the pivot bearing. Attach a socket extenstion through the opposite side pivot bearing and drift out the bearing with a hammer.

To install the new bearing (make sure you get it right side out) use the outer race of the old bearing to drift the new one in. Tap the new bearing in gently by alternatly hitting opposite sides of the old race, checking frequently that the bearing isn't becoming cockeyed in the seat.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
wardenross said:
Charlie,

Do you recommend the JL Bushings from Rubber Chicken?
I'm waiting for someone to send me a free set so I can give 'em my endorsement. :histerica
 

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When you tap the race side to side you take a chance of cracking the race. The correct procedure is to press them evenly as to not crack them or shave away any metal on the embossment where they set.
I have made an insertion tool that works quite well and only takes a few minutes to install these races correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Please post pictures of your method.

I agree that a press is a better way to do it but setting up the whole drive in the press and getting the thing properly aligned is difficult. I have found that it is much more likely to get the alignment off in the press resulting in shaving the bearing seat.
The tapping forces used in my method are quite light, I doubt bearing damage would occur as long forces are applied only to the outer race and proper alignment is maintained.

Your comments are appreciated, really want to see a picture of your insertion tool and pictures of how you use it.
Thanks,

1dbweldor said:
When you tap the race side to side you take a chance of cracking the race. The correct procedure is to press them evenly as to not crack them or shave away any metal on the embossment where they set.
I have made an insertion tool that works quite well and only takes a few minutes to install these races correctly.
 

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wardenross said:
Charlie,

Do you recommend the JL Bushings from Rubber Chicken?




http://rubberchickenracinggarage.com/bushings.html


,,,,,,
Although the GS crowd bad mouths them, I have had them (as well as Ari over in Finland) for several thousand miles on the LT and I have not had an issue at all. It does take less pre load than the roller bearings but mine have not loosened up at all. I like them.
 

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Charlie the tool I make is so simple you will laugh. You don't use a press at all. Very simple to use. Only takes a couple minutes. I'll see if I can take a picture and download it.
I've done quite a few final drives using this method with no problems what so ever. I've had couple people upset at how quickly and simple this works.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
1dbweldor said:
.....the tool I make is so simple you will laugh. You don't use a press at all.......
A big C-clamp would work.
A long bolt threaded through the bearing openings would work.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
1dbweldor said:
Charlie
These are some of the tools that I have made to use on the BMW.
Nice to have the ability to fabricate tools like that.

I imagined the pivot bearing installation tool before you posted the pic. I'll try something like that next time.
 

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Charlie
As many final drives as you do, you would probably need a couple of the tools on that table. Probably the handiest tool for final drives is the one to hold it while you disassemble or reassemble it.
 

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1dbweldor said:
Charlie
These are some of the tools that I have made to use on the BMW.
Nice job on the tooling Don. I make my own tools too.The handiest tool in my shop is my 12X54 metal lathe.

Curtis: The tool I referenced in your other thread on final drives is what Don has made here. I would only add another window, or three, to make for additional measurements, and countersink the holes to use flush mounting screws to make moving the step-block around the unit easier. I'll machine one up and post some pictures. I'm setting up to do at least two drives in the next couple weeks. This should be interesting.

Don: regarding your assembly/disassembly tool. What do you hold it down to the bench with, or is it made heavy enough to be stable while you torque the bolts? I was going to make one simular to the multi-function tool used in the manual, but I like your idea better (i think).
 

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Ernie
The tool for holding the final drive is in the pictures. Look at the one with tapered bushingd on the big bolt looking thing. The bushings go in the races and bolts to my table. You can loosen the nut on top to turn the drive to a comfortable position.
By the way my table that I bolt this to is 3200# and ground to 5 microns. But it works great for things of this nature also.
The measuring plate for the final drive housing I torque these bolts down to BMW specs so I don't get a false reading. I know BMW doesn't state this in there specs but there final drives don't have any problems with premature bearing failure. I do what I know will work properly and don't give a ratsass about what other people think or say. I get too much slack from the so called BMW techs out here. I figure it's there loss.
My first plate had 3 holes for measurments but still got different readings at times so the plate in the picture is .0003 under size to center and hold the bearing in place and location so as to give a proper reading consistently. I heat the plate to 140 degrees F. for installation and removal. Once I install the plate and seat it properly I let it come to ambient before I torque it or measure it.
 
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