[NoelCP]

I change my FD oil every oil change.

How long will it take you to do a FD oil change on the RTLC?

 

[crick0234]

everything you said is normal.

when u do valve checks, you will hear a clunk and notice wheel play as you rotate the cams into position.

no need to lube splines. There's a discussion where JVB talks about it not being necessary.

 

[LAF]

How long will it take you to do a FD oil change on the RTLC?

15 minuets start to finish. Everything wiped down clean and put away.

 

[Teach]

Just replace it every 12k or 2 years and ride it. I use castrol, mobile, Valvoline, or whatever I have on hand.
Folk's worry far too much about servicing.

 

[GoldenWest]

Curious if anyone is using a higher viscosity FD oil other than Castrol SAF-XO (75w-90 GL5) gear oil. Specifically 75w-140, which corresponds to Castrol SAF-XJ. This was suggested to me by a number of BMW dealers and independent shops. My personal oil of choice for my 2006 RT was Redline 75w-140 GL5 gear oil.
That reasoning came about with BMW reducing the FD oil measurement from 220 to 180ml (to alleviate pressure from a non vented FD), and given the heat generated with so little oil, use of a higher viscosity oil came about.
Just purchased a 2018 RT and wondering what owners with the 2014+ generation are using.
Thanks

 

[6speedTi]

Not a good idea to use a 140 weight gear oil in the final drive. There are many discussions on another forum by a life long BMW technician who knows more about these bikes than the BMW service technician. That was brought up and he did not recommend it. The gear box is no problem since it will solve some issues with noisy shifting, but not the final drive. Stick with 75w90 for the final drive. Hexheads and Camheads. The newer boxers use a slightly different weight gear oil that is difficult to source unless you buy if from BMW $$$$$$.

 

[GoldenWest]

Ok, got it. Thanks for the reply and info.
Good to know.

 

[taran1900]

I decided to renew the final drive oil this week with the bike (2011 RT) only having done 8500 miles. I recently did the gearbox and although the level was a little low the oil was clean. As I drained the final drive the oil was very dark green grey. There was iron residue stuck in the magnetic drain plug too. The level was correct at 180mls and was replaced with the same amount of clean final drive oil. I suppose my concern is the very dark oil and metal after only 8500 miles. Is this normal after such a short time on he road?

Also, when the wheel was remounted and off the ground I turned the wheel by hand with significant 'play' experienced moving it forward and back. There was a slight clunk too. I would have thought this was not good but it may be that this is normal. Is it? Any guidance as to what might be done to reduce the amount of play, whether it is in the final gear, the shaft splines or the gearbox, would be helpful.

This board is for RT Series (Post 2013). Please post in the right place so as not to fill up the space where it doesn't belong.

 

[alegerlotz]

This board is for RT Series (Post 2013). Please post in the right place so as not to fill up the space where it doesn't belong.

If you look at the dates on the original post (that you quoted), you'll see that it was from 2015. 6 years or so before the RT Series were split between Pre Wethead / Post Wethead. Recent replies brought it back to being active...

 

[GoldenWest]

no need to lube splines. There's a discussion where JVB talks about it not being necessary.
[/QUOTE]

Interesting. With my previous ‘03 R1150 and ’06 RT, every dealer and independent shop mentioned the necessity to lube the splines. That it was a “must do” precaution. Now I’ve got an ‘18 RT, and looking thru the various years of maintenance schedules (link below), I don’t see any mention of a scheduled spline lubing.
Wondering spline lube could be considered “lifetime“ lubrication.

BMW Motorcycle Service and Maintenance Schedules

 

[GoldenWest]

15 minuets start to finish. Everything wiped down clean and put away.

My info for previous’06 RT was 180ml; assuming still applies to 2014+ bikes?

 

[alegerlotz]

My info for previous’06 RT was 180ml; assuming still applies to 2014+ bikes?

It does. My 2016 RT and 2021 R Nine T both take 180 ml in the rear drive.

 

[GoldenWest]

It does. My 2016 RT and 2021 R Nine T both take 180 ml in the rear drive.

Thanks for the reply and confirming.

 

[The_real_hati]

Interesting. With my previous ‘03 R1150 and ’06 RT, every dealer and independent shop mentioned the necessity to lube the splines

Don't confuse the dry clutch (up to the wetheads) edition RTs where the critical lubing was for the gearbox input shaft splines.

That is no longer the case as wetheads have wet clutches too. The drive shaft splines on the paralever rear ends do not need lubing as they don't change length going from one end of suspension travel to the other. The only thing grease does in there is stop surface rust.

 

[GoldenWest]

I see. Thanks for the reply.

 

[NMDan]

Not a good idea to use a 140 weight gear oil in the final drive. There are many discussions on another forum by a life long BMW technician who knows more about these bikes than the BMW service technician. That was brought up and he did not recommend it. The gear box is no problem since it will solve some issues with noisy shifting, but not the final drive. Stick with 75w90 for the final drive. Hexheads and Camheads. The newer boxers use a slightly different weight gear oil that is difficult to source unless you buy if from BMW $$$$$$.

/\ /\ What he said.
I have been the habit of changing the fluid well ahead of schedule since they had the issues more than a decade ago. That problem has been solved but it's so easy I just do it when I do the motor oil. The metal paste on the magnet and dark fluid is typical of the unit breaking in. After a couple of changes the fluid will stay cleaner and there will be far less accumulation on the magnet.
When I bought the 20 RT there was not a lot of choices for 70W80 synthetic lube so I bought a bottle of BMW's G-3. At $50+ for 500ml it was considerably more expensive that what you could get synthetic 75W90 for but now 70W80 is becoming more readily available. The drive hasn't changed, just the lube spec so it's hard to imagine there would be an issue going with any good 75W90. I wouldn't go with a higher viscoscity than that though.

 

[Dann323]

Not a good idea to use a 140 weight gear oil in the final drive. There are many discussions on another forum by a life long BMW technician who knows more about these bikes than the BMW service technician. That was brought up and he did not recommend it. The gear box is no problem since it will solve some issues with noisy shifting, but not the final drive. Stick with 75w90 for the final drive. Hexheads and Camheads. The newer boxers use a slightly different weight gear oil that is difficult to source unless you buy if from BMW $$$$$$.

The dealers in my area don't even use that BMW G3 oil. They use the same one that was used before
On my R1250RT I still use the Land Rover LRN7591 which is the same as the SAF-XO for a fraction of the price.

 

[GoldenWest]

Hi,
Something to consider.
For many years I’ve had excellent success with Red Line Oils, in BMW bikes and automobile engines, transmissions and differentials. At some point I got some Castrol SAF-XO (75W-90 GL-5 gear oil) from a Land Rover dealership. Tried it in a 2006 RT and transmission and FD, and a 2004 530i diff.
Found that the RT trans, FD, and the 530i FD but Red Line was noticeably quieter and smoother. I ended up going back to Red Line. Currently using Red Line 75W-90 Gear Oil in my 2018 RT with great results. Data sheet lists as a Castrol SAF-XO substitute, exceeds GL-5 and has higher MIL spec (attached).

Thanks

 

[GoldenWest]

Sorry, just corrected above.
Meant to say “RT trans, FD, and the 530i FD were noticeably quieter and smoother (with Red Line).”