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Discussion Starter #1
While trying to change the gear oil in my final drive, I stripped the hex to the filler cap. In other words, the outside "hole" allowing me to insert the hex bolt into the cap. Thankfully I haven't drained the drive yet, but will ultimately need to remove this cap. Any suggestions? :confused: Thanks.
 

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dholy said:
While trying to change the gear oil in my final drive, I stripped the hex to the filler cap. In other words, the outside "hole" allowing me to insert the hex bolt into the cap. Thankfully I haven't drained the drive yet, but will ultimately need to remove this cap. Any suggestions? :confused: Thanks.
A few suggestions:

Warm the housing around the filler plug with a heat gun or carefully applied propane torch.

1) Go to the local autoparts store and get a small tube of valve lapping compound. It is a gritty paste which you can put in the stripped hex of the cap. Then place your hex wrench into the paste and jiggle and tap it 'till it gets down to the bottom. The grit may allow the wrench to engage.

2) Another option: get a socket drive Torx driver of a size just larger that the hex wrench that stripped the cap. Tap the Torx driver into the stripped cap with a small hammer.

3) Is it possible to grasp the outside of the cap with a new pair of Vice Grips? (a new one with sharp teeth in the jaws).

None of the above worked and you're getting desperate? Drill a hole through the filler plug (this will put some metal shavings inside the FD which you should flush out later). Tap an EasyOut into the hole you drilled.

Have fun.
 

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Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
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Try a cold chisel before drilling. Tap and drive in the loosening direction. It will bugger it but it can be re-used. I had to do this on the clutch housing bolts when they stripped out.
 

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Soak it for a day with a good penetrating oil. Then JB Weld an allen wrench into the stripped head. Then using two sets of hands, have the second person grab the exterior of the filler cap with some new pliers and then torque both at the same time while tapping with a small hammer.
 

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deanwoolsey said:
JB Weld an allen wrench into the stripped head. Then using two sets of hands, have the second person grab the exterior of the filler cap with some new pliers and then both torque at the same time.
OK then how do you get the allen wrench out so you can finish unscrewing the plug? I guess you could cut it off. Good idea though. Maybe glue the long end in and leave the short end to grip with pliers. Even better!!
 

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Yea, it's a desperate measure. Using a star drive or Allen socket with the JB weld would be the best bet, but much more expensive as the socket would likely be ruined. Then again the JB Weld could probably be burnt out with a good propane torch afterwards.
 

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Easiest solution? Buy the replacement plug from the dealer, ride the bike to your local machine shop, cross the street for a 20 minute cup of coffee, pay the dude $30 to take the pesky thing out, and ride it home.

No stress, no fretting, let the pro 's do it.

Loren
 

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Removal is very simple, use a drift and hammer and hit it dead on, simple tap don't tee off.
Use a chisel and catch the top at a 45 deg angle, it will come right out, I guarantee this.
Actually just using a chisel will remove the plug.
 

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I,ve also had success in the past by cutting off a piece of hex key the next size up, in this case I'd use a 3/8AF, (which is about 9.5 mm) and grind/file it to match the damaged in-hex. Drive it into the in-hex, which usually causes the plug to release (same as a smack with a hammer on top), then unscrew using a socket on the hex. I use Loctite teflon thread sealant on my plugs and caps and only lightly tighten the caps. Never any leaks and can always be undone without abuse. 1 tube of the Loctite 567 will last about 20 years.
 

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jzeiler said:
Try a cold chisel before drilling. Tap and drive in the loosening direction. It will bugger it but it can be re-used. I had to do this on the clutch housing bolts when they stripped out.
+1

Experience.
 

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I have successfully used vice grips. Be careful in selecting size and placement so you do not scratch the FD housing. DAMHIK :eek:

Oh, and get a new cap from your favorite dealer.
 

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Don't drain the oil first!

deputy5211 said:
I have successfully used vice grips. Be careful in selecting size and placement so you do not scratch the FD housing. DAMHIK :eek:

Oh, and get a new cap from your favorite dealer.
Reading through this thread reminds me of what I was told a long time ago and that was to be sure and "loosen up the fill bolt before draining the empty bolt."
 

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Plenty of access and a large diameter, like mentioned above it will come out very easy with just a few taps on a chisel. I designed a training course on using hand tools for field engineers and one of the sections was on removing fasteners. This is a couple of pics from the training manual.

Tap the chisel straight on to create a notch for the chisel to grab.
On the fill plug you could do it either straight down on top on one
side or at a right angle to the edge like the one in the pic.




Then tap the chisel at an appropriate angle to catch
the notch and turn the plug CCW.

 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks for the great suggestions. Tapping CCW on the filler cap with a chisel did the trick. It was MUCH easier than I expected, and saved me the $$ and time with the dealer. I really appreciate it. :)
 

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Enduro said:
Plenty of access and a large diameter, like mentioned above it will come out very easy with just a few taps on a chisel. I designed a training course on using hand tools for field engineers and one of the sections was on removing fasteners. This is a couple of pics from the training manual.

Tap the chisel straight on to create a notch for the chisel to grab.
On the fill plug you could do it either straight down on top on one
side or at a right angle to the edge like the one in the pic.




Then tap the chisel at an appropriate angle to catch
the notch and turn the plug CCW.

Great post, great pics. Thank you!
 
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