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good read on this thread. just bought my '02 (or is it '05, i'm not sure) this afternoon. will send to the shop for new tires and brakes. in one fell swoop will have them do complete maintenance on that drive, just to make sure ! :)
 

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good read on this thread. just bought my '02 (or is it '05, i'm not sure) this afternoon. will send to the shop for new tires and brakes. in one fell swoop will have them do complete maintenance on that drive, just to make sure ! :)
The issue with the final drive isn't maintenance, it is improper assembly. If a given drive is thusly affected, it needs to be repaired and the damaged bearing replaced. Maintaining the improper preload will not help. Most dealers seem to just replace the bearing leaving the existing improper shims in place. This simply resets the clock until the new bearing fails from overload.
 

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I just got my first K bike two weeks ago, Just change the final drive oil and fill it with the old faithful Redline hypodgear oil, did not find any metal on the magnet or shimmer in the oil..

On the other hand I had seven GS since 1995 and easy 500.000 in between all of them (Main bike 362.000 original FD from 95)

One trick all my final drive run early iterations of the 3/1 that came on the early 1100's (two of them are from R850R for even lower ratios, all of they with a extended breathing tube that rest under the tank, just in case deep river crossing....

So far never had a issue on my own bikes, at the same time I had help many people over the years with newer versions of the bmw final drive and I can tell you they are just not build to the same standards...

Same as the old Ackron spoke wheels made in Spain, years better than the one made in germany..
 

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I have had 2 final drives fail on my 2004 K1200RS. One was at around 85,000 kms, and I obtained a used one and fitted it whilst I replaced the bearings in the original one. The used one failed at 95,000 kms, so it was obviously on its way out when I bought it. Repaired drive has been OK for 20,000kms. From my experience in repairing these units, the correct pre-load is very hard to determine. The various ways of measuring the shim thickness are too hard to get right for even an experienced repair shop, so most (including me) will just replace the bearings using the existing (original) shim. I am getting pretty good at changing these bearings now, and for a cost of a few hundred dollars it is still less than chains and sprockets. Its a design flaw to be sure, but one that I will live with as there is no other bike that I prefer to ride in the current BMW line-up.
 
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