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Well it happened to me. Crown bearing went in the final drive unit while traveling at 120kmph on the 417, good thing was that it acted like a tire going down and didn't lock-up on me.

I got it to the dealers and when they were looking into it they noticed the drive seal leaking also. $6500 estimate for both on a 03 with 106,000 KM on it.

So I guess I am out a bike :frown: .

Anyway, I couldn't find a current registry to list the failure on here and the one I did find wouldn't open for me.

Thinking long and hard about my next bike for sure!!!!

Kevin
 

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Well it happened to me. Crown bearing went in the final drive unit while traveling at 120kmph on the 417, good thing was that it acted like a tire going down and didn't lock-up on me.

I got it to the dealers and when they were looking into it they noticed the drive seal leaking also. $6500 estimate for both on a 03 with 106,000 KM on it.

So I guess I am out a bike :frown: .

Anyway, I couldn't find a current registry to list the failure on here and the one I did find wouldn't open for me.

Thinking long and hard about my next bike for sure!!!!

Kevin
Here is the registry page. Those types of repairs are extremely expensive from a dealer but not so bad if you wrench it yourself. It is an involved repair though. Glad you were not hurt when it went out.

http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/k1200lt/32886-final-drive-failure-registry.html
 

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Well it happened to me. Crown bearing went in the final drive unit while traveling at 120kmph on the 417, good thing was that it acted like a tire going down and didn't lock-up on me.

I got it to the dealers and when they were looking into it they noticed the drive seal leaking also. $6500 estimate for both on a 03 with 106,000 KM on it.

So I guess I am out a bike :frown: .

Anyway, I couldn't find a current registry to list the failure on here and the one I did find wouldn't open for me.

Thinking long and hard about my next bike for sure!!!!

Kevin
You could send it to Saddleman for repair. He's got to be cheaper that that.
 

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You could send it to Saddleman for repair. He's got to be cheaper that that.
A used FD on ebay may be a choice also but if the oil leak mentioned is in the clutch area and not related to the FD then that might explain the high dollar cost he got for an estimate.
 

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I rebuilt one on my last bike, an R1100RT. It was an education, but if you are handy with a wrench, and you watch the few youtube videos on the subject, it really isn't that hard. You might have to buy a couple of tools. I think I spent about $200 USD on tools and parts when I did mine.

I bet I could do one in about 4 hours now if I had to. (But I am not taking on work,... my honey-do list is too long for me to work on any but my own vehicles... but I could answer questions If you run in problems.) -John
 

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...they noticed the drive seal leaking also. $6500 estimate for both on a 03 with 106,000 KM on it...
What exactly is the "drive seal" that is leaking? Rear main seal, tranny out put seal, final drive pinion input seal?

I was just given, for the cost of shipping and a couple quarts of maple syrup, a final drive off a 2003. It is very fixable with a new crown wheel bearing properly set up. You can have it for my costs if you want. i.e. what it cost me to get it (not counting maple syrup), cost of bearing and new seal, and cost to ship to you. And I'd ask you so ship me your failed final drive.
(I know shipping stuff to CN can get expensive.)

But your bigger issue is the "drive seal" since we don't really understand what you are talking about.
 

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I don't know how repair costs differ between models but last year my dealer replaced the crown bearing & seals on my 2009 RT,40k miles, for a little over $400 (they were doing the rear flange recall at the same time which may explain the very reasonable repair bill). Anyway I was happy & it came with a 2 year warranty. 12k miles later & seems to be doing ok. I don't fret over another FD failure but realize that it might leave me on the side of the road someday. Mickey
 

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Well it happened to me. Crown bearing went in the final drive unit while traveling at 120kmph on the 417, good thing was that it acted like a tire going down and didn't lock-up on me.

I got it to the dealers and when they were looking into it they noticed the drive seal leaking also. $6500 estimate for both on a 03 with 106,000 KM on it.

So I guess I am out a bike :frown: .

Anyway, I couldn't find a current registry to list the failure on here and the one I did find wouldn't open for me.

Thinking long and hard about my next bike for sure!!!!

Kevin
Really, something does not sound right. A final drive AND clutch should be a lot less than that.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G928A using Tapatalk
 

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Ebay is your friend, I got a spare for 200.00 a few years back. The dealer is plum nuts! Don't know which seal, but you NEED to let us know which one. Can be done yourself with a few tools if you ask for help. My rear engine seal went and had I known it was that, simple hole in bottom of clutch case to see if oil or hydraulic fluid the dealer would have been responsible for the repair so I screwed myself. What I learned was priceless however and I will never be intimidated by this bike again whenever anything goes wrong as it so often does. I sat on and liked the 1600 but as big a problem as the 1200 has been don't know I'd ever buy another BMW. I'll read up on them good if I do. I had a piece of S_it bike for sure. If it could go wrong it did!, still does!
The people on here will get you thru this if you can do it yourself and yes you can!
 
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I bought one for $200 plus shipping but there is more to it than just slapping on a Ebay FD. The one I bought had signs of pinion seal leakage and you have no idea what the internal condition is unless you pull it apart and inspect it after you receive it, and you need to know what to look for. If you are in a bind, this is a good method of getting going again and you might be fine for a long time as many are. Not discouraging this practice.

Since I didn't send my FD to Saddleman but did it myself, This is why I bought a second one on Ebay because I don't have his experience with them and I have a much higher chance of getting something wrong. I have taken it apart and inspected all the bearings and races for wear or creep, checked the shimming and because it was within spec, and the interference pattern looked good, I put new seals in it and now have it as a spare for me or possibly some poor soul who had a failure near me, far from home as long as he returned it after having Dave rebuild his original. :)

The one I got looked good and I call it a good value. It might even be one Dave did at some time and the oil in the pinion area came from outside and not inside. It could have been another story though so you just never know with used stuff like that. Be aware that you should inspect or have someone inspect a used FD if possible before placing it into service so you are not shortly in the same boat. They are good emergency replacements at the very least but may last a good long time.

.02
 

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The one I got was from Rubberside up on ebay in Texas, good guys. It was complete with swingarm and brake! 200.00 I believe at the time 3 years ago. Steal and checked out fine. Helps to have spares for everything on an LT. Just put on a front shock I got from them and soon a new steering dampner. Get my parts dipped and back together and do the ABS brake bleed. Then I'll be riding again hopefully before summer ends, Ha! Only 4 really bad months out here anyway when I can't/won/t ride. Too many broken legs and feet parts. At least I can GET replacement parts for the LT! My original equipment is kaput and repairs too many times to be sure they will hold up in the long run. Can't wait for cheap Bionics in another life.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks guys for the info and comments. I ended up having log-in issues here so haven't been on for awhile.

I ended up finding a 99 in NH that is basically the same bike only was in much better shape with only 10,000 miles on it so I'm on the road on an LT still. I kept the 03 for parts and have it at home.

Does anyone know of any real differences I need to watch for in using parts?

This new to me bike is awesome and everything works great so far, even my suspension adjuster works on this bike which never did on the other, and the radio works much better also.

One thing that sucks is that the CD changer on both bikes don't power up to turn on or even spit out the cd deck, any tips on this? I have seen the audio modes for an AV in but it looks like to much for me with the adapter from a BMW car dealership, the install and the power requirements etc. This older 99 has a tape deck so I just bought an audio adapter cassette tape and plug my music in there, just need power plugin in the little console now.

Kevin
 

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Thanks guys for the info and comments. I ended up having log-in issues here so haven't been on for awhile.

I ended up finding a 99 in NH that is basically the same bike only was in much better shape with only 10,000 miles on it so I'm on the road on an LT still. I kept the 03 for parts and have it at home.

Does anyone know of any real differences I need to watch for in using parts?

This new to me bike is awesome and everything works great so far, even my suspension adjuster works on this bike which never did on the other, and the radio works much better also.

One thing that sucks is that the CD changer on both bikes don't power up to turn on or even spit out the cd deck, any tips on this? I have seen the audio modes for an AV in but it looks like to much for me with the adapter from a BMW car dealership, the install and the power requirements etc. This older 99 has a tape deck so I just bought an audio adapter cassette tape and plug my music in there, just need power plugin in the little console now.

Kevin
Between the 99 and 03, the final drive is incompatible because of the need for the speed sensor, otherwise, it fits, so is anything having to do with the front breaking system and the ABS module as the 03 has the power assist and the 99 does not. Rear break rotor and caliper are usable. Not sure if the front wheel itself is the same but the rotors are different so those would have to be pulled from the 99 wheel to match the break system if someone can confirm that the wheel itself is the same. rear wheel should be good. Probably a lot of the relays are the same but not sure of the ECU is 100% or not. Don't know too much on those and the differences between years. I think the fuel tank and pump would be good too. Slave cylinder good. Throttle body, fuel rail, injectors all should transfer too. Radiators should be a go. Those are the big systems beyond the engine and trans.

Hope you got a really good deal on that as a spare FD would be a few hundred and the 99 has the same failings as the 03 with the seals and O-ring between the trans and engine. Same work to fix on the 99 or the 03 and it isn't so much a factor of mileage as it is age of hose seals so keep an eye on it.

Did you get any maintenance history with your new baby? Any of those major systems already been worked in yet?
 

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Got mine fixed while on the road this summer in BC. Less than $800.00 Cdn, 24 hrs from first contact at shop to fixed and back on the road. Should have done this before, but a big shout out to the folks at SHAILS MOTORCYCLES Langley BC.
 

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Got mine fixed while on the road this summer in BC. Less than $800.00 Cdn, 24 hrs from first contact at shop to fixed and back on the road. Should have done this before, but a big shout out to the folks at SHAILS MOTORCYCLES Langley BC.
The FD repair is not all that bad, it is the clutch O-ring and seals that have a large price tag connected to them due to the need to remove the transmission.
 
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