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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all,

Final Drive Boot - Flint Size Piece of Metal

So I'm going over my new to me '99'. I loosened the boot clamp and about 2 table spoons of oil came out so obviously I have a leaky seal. SHOWELL - Props to you :) I will change the final drive oil to the Royal Purple to help me identify where whether the leak is, tranny or final drive side. (Is there a post listing the part numbers I may need and/or where to purchase? I did a search and couldn't find them)

The 'wierder' thing was finding a cylidical piece of metal, clean and in good shape, in the boot. Looks like a slightly larger version of a piece of flint you would use for a lighter.
Could this be a needle bearing from the 'U' joint?

HELP please!! :confused:
 

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Sounds like your needle bearings are failing. I would not ride it any more than you need to right now. Mine went out years ago. Even though It was out of warranty my local dealership offered to do the labor free if I bought the part. At the time it was only about 35 bucks if I remember correctly. No big deal. I am not sure about the seal job.
 

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Who ever the PO was may have inadvertently pushed one or two in while reassembling the FD :mad: , simple thing to check without taking the FD off. While on the floor, grab the wheel at the 9 and 3 position. Wiggle it towards you and away from you. Repeat at the 12 and 6, any play? Yes = bad -. 9 & 3, usually indicates the bushings, the other the crown bearing (bad...bad..juju!) No, move on, but keep an eye on it. If you do go for replacement, I'd suggest getting the upgrade to brass. I got mine here. Easy and a good piece of mind as most FD issues can be tied back to them failing. SOMETIMES... It’s a crapshoot on what the root cause is.
As for the seals on the gearbox and FD... PM me as I replaced my gear box and opted to have the stealer do the work but purchased the seal.It needs a good home (Pay it forward, yea Dick!). I also opted to have the FD seal done by them as well. Not that you can not do the work yourself, but the final drive has odd ball (BMW specific) nuts and such, that makes it a pain in the ass. Not to mention a special jig you'd have to make up. The Gearbox is easier, but you will have to remove the FD, swingarm and axle to get to it. And then gett'en the bugger out is another story! But you can drill the slave while you are there! :histerica Max BMW, they seem to beat every stealer I've contacted...

side note: Are you running dino or synthetic oil in the GB/FD? The reason I ask, when my leak was discovered, I switched back to dino and the leak stopped. Something about molecules and such...Way above my head!!!!

Looks like you're grounded until you get this one figured out. Welcome to the WTF club...But hey, its winter! :dance:


New "upgrade"


Older "Needle"
 

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shoswell said:
--------------------------------------------------------------- If you do go for replacement, I'd suggest getting the upgrade to brass. I got mine here. Easy and a good piece of mind as most FD issues can be tied back to them failing. --------------------------------

Are you saying that the swing arm bearings failing can cause final drive failure? I have never heard of anyone, dealer or otherwise, thinking this. If so, can you elaborate on how you think this can happen? I can think of no connection between the failures.
 

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My U joint failed which has needle bearings. (posted pics, do a search under my name) You can pull the drive shaft with out pulling the swingarm, just pull the FD. Then you can check the swingarm rear AND the driveshaft. The drive shaft is easy to find on line for about 100-150$.
Good Luck.

Zeke
 

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The idea that failed swing arm bearings could cause a FD issue is interesting to me as well. I suppose the failed bearings could cause a shift in the "moment" (I think that's the proper term) of the torque, inducing additional stress on the FD components. That additional play has to show up somewhere.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Sho, right on brother. The bottom picture bearing is EXACTLY what I found one of. So what you did was replace those bearings with solid, oil impregnated brass versions and new steal races.

I have NO play on the rear wheel when pulling back and forth at 3-9 or 6-12 positions (good news I think). I replaced the FD fluid with Synthetic BUT I the only thing I did since doing so was to put in gear on the center stand (I'm also waiting for a replacement ball joint for my shifter assembly)

As sick as it may sound I REALLYT love this bike so this work is a labor of love :). I'm an ok wrench should I attempt the FD seal replacement myself or take to the dealer? I'm a little worried about 'checking pre-load' as I don't have any appropriate measuring devices.

THANK YOU so much everyone for your comments and input, I REALLY appreciate it. You are a great group of folks and so far I'm not feeling overly anxious about this stuff :)
 

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dshealey said:
Are you saying that the swing arm bearings failing can cause final drive failure? I have never heard of anyone, dealer or otherwise, thinking this. If so, can you elaborate on how you think this can happen? I can think of no connection between the failures.
Well....Maybe I am wrong...Simply becasue those that I value the opinion of dearly, value yours moreso. In perusing the posts over the years, I've seen mention of the bearing failing causing, the crown bearing to fail. Think about it, if the Paraleaver bushings fail, there is now side to side "play" that something has to take the slack up on. only thing left is the crown bearing. (A+ for dean) Also, several notations of worn or "notched" races, i.e. the bearing spinning in the swingarm have been noted. Not an expert, just gleaming what I can from those that are. Bottom line the OP got the info he wanted and the rest of us are free to reverse engineer the fd failures!

ALASKAFISH POST 5

as well as others, but i got my point across..
 

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2 questions, maybe you guys can answer.

Brass pivot bearing, can they be attached to pins with loctite ahead of time?

Why are we using Loctite instead of some other high temp adhesive?
 

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2 questions, maybe you guys can answer.

Brass pivot bearing, can they be attached to pins with loctite ahead of time?

Why are we using Loctite instead of some other high temp adhesive?
I think I would be asking why use loctite at all. The pivot pins are supposed to be installed dry with no thread locker so if you are attaching the pivot pin to the bushing, why is that necesasry? Sounds difficult to disassemble. Curious why it is recommended by the MFG. It isn't needed for the needle bearing.

That being said, if you are attaching the brass bushing to the pivot pin with loctite, you could do so ahead of time only if the bushing would fit through the opening of the threads. If it would fit, I am not sure I would do it that way as there is a preload you would not be able to reproduce on the bench easily between the bushing and the pivot pin. This would be done while tightening and the loctite is wet allowing movement to center properly in the seat.

I haven't looked at mine close enough to see if the center portion of the bearing would pass through the hole or not.

The rear is much smaller hole than the front I think.

Why not use Loctite?

You do like to dig up old threads ;)
 

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The instructions for the sintered bronze bushings do call for loctite for the bronze bush to pin interface, not the threads. FWIW I choose to NOT use loctite and have run them for over 60 K with no issues. I was afraid if I loctited them I could not get the pins out as the bushings were larger than the holes (I thought at the time). I do go in and periodically pull them, clean and inspect then re-lube and re-install. The GS guys have abandoned these for they do not hold up to the shock loads of off road and many have shattered. They have a guy making some out of a "delrin" type plastic for the GS crowd.
 
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