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Discussion Starter #1
I did a search and did not find anything on this topic. Probably just used the wrong keywords as I have to believe this has been covered before.

Anywho, I was watching Chris Harris old video on replacing the FD and he mentioned something I had heard before, but forgot. He said the 7 NM adjustable pivot pin torque is incorrect and BMW taught them in tech school that 10-12 was the correct torque to preload the bearings to make them last longer. I torqued mine to 7 as that is what the manual said, but I am wondering now if I need to loosen the adjustable pin and retorque it.

Saddleman and others, what torque do you use for the adjustable pin? Can anyone confirm the BMW change from 7 to 10-12 NM?
 

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I just completed a FD bearing replacement and have seen the same video from Chris Harris, and others. I did 7,..no side play, up/down movement was smooth,,.then went to 10 which the up/down FD movement seemed a bit too firm for me,..almost to the point of binding. I slightly backed off the pin, checked my up/down movement and was satisfied not as tight, but firmer than the 7. So I guess I ended up at around 8-9. I realize that's not super exact. Sometimes you gotta fly by the seat of your pants :grin:
 

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Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
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All my manuals including the BMW OEM for the 05 show 7 Nm for the floating pin on the rear drive and 10 Nm for the floating pin on the swing arm pivot. So if they changed it it was after 2005.
His video also says 150 Nm for the fixed pin while BMW says 160 and the jam nut Chris says 105 Nm while Bmw says 160 Nm.

I don't like the guy he is too self absorbed.

But I think you need to do what he says and report back after your Alaska trip.
 
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Discussion Starter #4
All my manuals including the BMW OEM for the 05 show 7 Nm for the floating pin on the rear drive and 10 Nm for the floating pin on the swing arm pivot. So if they changed it it was after 2005.
His video also says 150 Nm for the fixed pin while BMW says 160 and the jam nut Chris says 105 Nm while Bmw says 160 Nm.

I don't like the guy he is too self absorbed.

But I think you need to do what he says and report back after your Alaska trip.
Yes, he was quite self-absorbed though he seems less so these days. He apparently had a serious medical issue a couple of years ago and re-evaluated his life. His recent videos have been very different bordering on the bizarre, but...

I don’t think he was working on an LT in the video I watched so it made me wonder if the torque values were different for different models. I went with 7 and felt no play and FD movement was very easy and smooth. I did feel, hear the slightest amount of play, but that was there before so I think it is in the swing arm bearings. I suspect they have loosened a little in the last 20,000 miles, but the play is almost imperceptible so I think I will leave it this time and catch it next time. Although, I think I have enough parts off the bike to get to those bolts so it probably only takes a few minutes to back one off and retorque. Probably should just do it.
 

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Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
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You just need the foot plate off to get to the adjustable swing arm pin, don't even have to pull the shift linkage. I have never felt swing arm movement but I also have never tried to measure it. Those are also tapered (but larger) roller bearings but only half the cost of the little ones.
 

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Have just put a post on, have been trying to remove the drive from the shaft on my year 2000 K1200LT to change the pivot bearings but having taken the pivot pins, lock nut and torsion bar bolt out the drive will not come off the shaft, from what I can see of the bearings they look rather rusty. Any ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Have just put a post on, have been trying to remove the drive from the shaft on my year 2000 K1200LT to change the pivot bearings but having taken the pivot pins, lock nut and torsion bar bolt out the drive will not come off the shaft, from what I can see of the bearings they look rather rusty. Any ideas?
You mean the final drive will not come out of the swing arm? Does the FD rotate up and down or side to side? I suppose if the splines have worn badly maybe they have siezed up, but it seems unlikely they could sieze enough to prevent the final drive from being removed. Then again, maybe I am not understanding correctly your issue.
 

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Enjoy The Ride
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Saddleman and others, what torque do you use for the adjustable pin? Can anyone confirm the BMW change from 7 to 10-12 NM?
I do everything in inch & foot pounds. 62 inch pounds for the preload & 116 or 118 ft. pounds on the right side & left side jam nut. Torque the right side before setting the preload.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I do everything in inch & foot pounds. 62 inch pounds for the preload & 116 or 118 ft. pounds on the right side & left side jam nut. Torque the right side before setting the preload.
Looks like you use the factory specs also. Yes, definitely torque the fixed pin before adjusting the other one.
 
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