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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, What started out installing my Starcom unit has turned into also re-wiring power for my other farkles, consisting of a V1 radar & Zumoo 665 to a Centech Ap-1 fuse block. For reference all devices draw a maximum of 2 amps. On to my questions.

1) Should I leave the in-line fuses in each of these units when connecting to the fuse block or is this redundant and then safe to cut them off?

2) I connected an in-line fuse from the fuse block to the battery positive, should the fuse amperage be a sum total of all device connected to the fuse block or higher? The in-line fuse that came with the lead is 75A.

Thank you.
 

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1.) The inline fuse going to each device would be redundant as long as you wire through the Centech.

2.) There is no reason to match the fuse between the battery and the Centech to the sum of the loads. 75A seems high as the web site said the max load for the Centech is 60A.

In order to safely use a 75A fuse for the Centech you will need to use an 8 AWG wire (very large and bulky) to the + and - terminals of the battery. I would change the fuse to 40A and use 12 AWG wire instead.

Loren

Gizmo1137 said:
Hi, What started out installing my Starcom unit has turned into also re-wiring power for my other farkles, consisting of a V1 radar & Zumoo 665 to a Centech Ap-1 fuse block. For reference all devices draw a maximum of 2 amps. On to my questions.

1) Should I leave the in-line fuses in each of these units when connecting to the fuse block or is this redundant and then safe to cut them off?

2) I connected an in-line fuse from the fuse block to the battery positive, should the fuse amperage be a sum total of all device connected to the fuse block or higher? The in-line fuse that came with the lead is 75A.

Thank you.
 

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Gizmo1137 said:
Hi, What started out installing my Starcom unit has turned into also re-wiring power for my other farkles, consisting of a V1 radar & Zumoo 665 to a Centech Ap-1 fuse block. For reference all devices draw a maximum of 2 amps. On to my questions.

1) Should I leave the in-line fuses in each of these units when connecting to the fuse block or is this redundant and then safe to cut them off?

2) I connected an in-line fuse from the fuse block to the battery positive, should the fuse amperage be a sum total of all device connected to the fuse block or higher? The in-line fuse that came with the lead is 75A.

Thank you.
1. I would remove the inline fuses. They are unnecessary with the fuse block and just one more connection to corrode and fail down the road.

2. The fuse feeding the fuse block should be sized to the wire that is feeding the fuse block and the maximum ampacity of the fuse block. I am not familiar with the CenTech as I use a Fuzeblock, but the literature with the unit should tell what its capacity is and you can then look up the correct wire size and fuse size to go with it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks Loren and Voyager, you are confirming my intuition and will proceed as such, appreciate the replies.
 

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What Loren and Matt said :cool: Remove those inline fuse holders, troubleshooting later will be much easier just checking a single item. (fuse in the block).
 

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I agree with everything above and would like to suggest one more step,
when removing the inline fuses, solder rather than crimp the wires,
Also: depending upon where you install the fuse block (mine is under the passenger seat)
and feeds all of my farkles including the HID headlight

if possible leave the fuse that feeds the fuse block easily accessible, that way whenever you add to,
or work on your farkles you only need to pull one fuse.

here is one time that helped me (a lot)!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
SilverBuffalo said:
I agree with everything above and would like to suggest one more step,
when removing the inline fuses, solder rather than crimp the wires,
Also: depending upon where you install the fuse block (mine is under the passenger seat)
and feeds all of my farkles including the HID headlight

if possible leave the fuse that feeds the fuse block easily accessible, that way whenever you add to,
or work on your farkles you only need to pull one fuse.

here is one time that helped me (a lot)!
Thanks Hans, did just that and it works fine and is secure. I attached the Centech to a piece of plastic and velcroed it to the battery bracket, with plenty of wire to move it out of the way for servicing.
 

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So did you wire the Starcom into the bmw system (i.e. feed the bmw audio into the Starcom)? Wondering how if you did it. I am designing a harness and switch system to do just that with switch between helmet and speakers and GPS, Aux in and music playable either way including audio from CD stacker and single CD. Fairly involved but I think I've figured it out. Thx!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
rowie said:
So did you wire the Starcom into the bmw system (i.e. feed the bmw audio into the Starcom)? Wondering how if you did it. I am designing a harness and switch system to do just that with switch between helmet and speakers and GPS, Aux in and music playable either way including audio from CD stacker and single CD. Fairly involved but I think I've figured it out. Thx!
No did not as I plan to use it as a stand alone system. I understand Starcom makes an adapter/cable that connects into the speakers so you can hear the radio.
 

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Label all you wires - both ends. Helps identify them when you trouble shoot.

Like the idea of solder connections. crimps corrode. I also like to use heat shrink with silicon inside. Totally sealed.

Be sure wire from battery/relay is heavy enough for total load.

Get rid of in-line fuses... = another failure point and another point to have to find and trouble shoot.

Be careful of wire runs, that they do not get squeezed or crimped by body work or other bolts and etc. I like to run one run forward, all in cased in Expandable Braided Cable Sleeving [http://www.cabletiesandmore.com/ExpandableSleeving.php]. This keeps it all neat, looks "factory", and protects it.

On my GSA, I have this sleeve running forward to a small fuse block up front. This way, I only have one main wire running forward. However, the GSA does not have many places to hide wiring. The front fuse block is also accessible.

I have attached the LT photo and diagram.

As you can see, I run - > Dual HID, > Horn, >Radar Detector, > GPS, > Motolights (50w each), > PIAA running lights, > Heated Jacket front and rear, > and Ipod.
 

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