BMW Luxury Touring Community banner

1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
49 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I was all set to do my first brake bleed, had the mityvac bleed screws, many reviews printed in the notebook and read on line, the clymer open to the right page. Tools ready.....

I start by removing the grub screw, NOT ! Stripped like a three dollar whore. No problem I'll just remove the filler adapter and add the speed bleeder , easy right? Heat gun to the adapter wrench to the adapter, all going as planned. SNAP!! Some new words spoke (not really I know them all well and have used them during my throttle cable replacement, another story). Believe it or not I have an easyout handy. In the bleed screw hole for now.

Now for my question, If I can heat the caliper, use the easy out and don't break that off in the caliper, do I need to rebuild the caliper or will it be ok . Anyone else do this or am I the first dub to do this? :confused:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,176 Posts
I may have just been lucky, but before I started tearing into things, I set out both the penetrating oil and the heat gun. I hit everything with the penetrating oil, came back with the heat gun, and everything came apart quickly. Started restoring my '65 MGB, and those two "tools" are a must.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,106 Posts
John, That link shows a LEFT caliper. The grub screw is in the right caliper. Good price though.

As to the op's question, try to get the fitting out first and then check the caliper.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
53 Posts
I can't think of any reason the caliper would be harmed by this. Heat it up good, though, that's the ticket for removing something like this where they used red loctite.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,428 Posts
Too early or not enough coffee... Hard to understand the issue. However, if you need a new (old) caliper... Let me know, I have a set in the shed from a donor bike....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
461 Posts
Be careful with penetrating oils if the can does not say safe for brake use it will likely ruin the rubber / soft parts of the brake system , just like brake fluid will ruin , melt or swell rubber parts made for perto oil service . I have seen 1 or 2 oz brake fluid used for auto trans sealer with some success .

Bob G
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
49 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
shoswell said:
Too early or not enough coffee... Hard to understand the issue. However, if you need a new (old) caliper... Let me know, I have a set in the shed from a donor bike....
If I can't get the fitting out I will definitely send you a note back. back at work for the next few days. How hot can I get the caliper without damage ? Not like blow torch hot, is the brake fluid flammable (probably a dumb question) but with the fitting no longer present the fluid is somewhat exposed. :confused:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
82 Posts
I know I'm really late to this thread so this is for anyone searching for a solution in the future.

Instead of removing the whole assembly from the right front caliper...and potentially wreaking all kinds of havoc getting that piece off...I purchased a simple "vent screw" from my local, friendly BMW dealer. Part number 34-21-2-330-310. Out the door price = $10.10.

Just unscrew the grub screw and cap from the caliper, and screw in this little plastic tool. One end is pointed to depress the ball bearing in the caliper port, and the other end is a standard brake fluid fitting. Bleed the system, remove the little tool, and re-install the cap. The dealer did not recommend leaving the plastic tool in place because it "probably" wouldn't seal the system properly with that ball bearing valve permanently pushed out of place.

As an added bonus for what may be the least expensive thing you'll ever buy at a BMW dealership...this same tool can be used to flush the clutch fluid which has the same type of fitting.
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top