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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, I've just had a total drive failure on my K1200LT due to, according to BMW garage, a rubber coupling in the engine to clutch disintegrating. First indication was the oil light coming on and then total drive failure. Apparently the oil pump runs of this rubber coupling. Has anyone experienced this problem? I am now on the lookout for an engine if anyone can help!!
 

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Can't help, but the folks that may be able to help will need to know the model year.

Sorry for your trouble. :(
 

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the output shaft of the engine does have a rubber damper/coupling and it probably would be better to find a used engine versus the labour of fixing yours - never heard of that part failing on a K engine, perhaps someone on the forum has heard of one failing

year and mileage might be interesting
 

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Not fully understanding your event, but wondering if the coupling failed, or did the oil pump fail, taking out the coupler?
 

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That is the first time that failure has been reported here to my knowledge! A rare one indeed.

If the engine ran more than a few seconds after the oil pressure light came on, then I would probably be looking for a replacement engine too. It is also possible the engine suffered no damage other than the coupling, but quite a bit of work disassembling to find out.
 

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I agree with David, far easier to find another engine. I have the part he is talking about from SteveR's old engine. I'd post a pic but we are up at Ironhorse this weekend. It is the first I have heard of as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks folks for the responses. The bike is a 2003 model with 95K miles. The dealer said they had not seen this problem before.It appears the rubber couplings broke up and therefore no drive to the oil pump. The engine would have only run for a few seconds with oil light flickering so at least the engine was getting some oil pressure. I'm not familiar with the engine mechanics but it looks like a new engine is required as cost of repairs would be around £1000 before looking to see if damage to crankshaft.
Would be glad to hear from anyone that has heard of this problem and any advices
 

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robthom said:
Thanks folks for the responses. The bike is a 2003 model with 95K miles. The dealer said they had not seen this problem before.It appears the rubber couplings broke up and therefore no drive to the oil pump. The engine would have only run for a few seconds with oil light flickering so at least the engine was getting some oil pressure. I'm not familiar with the engine mechanics but it looks like a new engine is required as cost of repairs would be around £1000 before looking to see if damage to crankshaft.
Would be glad to hear from anyone that has heard of this problem and any advices
Does the motor still turn over?
How do you know there was damage..or what makes you think there was?
A motor could run for awhile with no oil pressure and not be shot.
A few seconds would not hurt anything in my opinion.
It's not like there was no oil in your motor.
When you change oil and don't fill the filter there is no oil pressure for a few seconds every time.
How long did the motor run with the light on?
 

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Having had an LT that was run without oil and coolant for a couple minutes, I can say the engines hold up pretty well. How do I know it was run without oil and coolant? There was a small hole in the right side engine cover. That cover has since been replaced, along with a few pieces of plastic and the bike's on the road.
 

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if you were going to fix it yourself then worth pulling engine apart to repair but if a shop is going to do it I imagine pretty hefty price, lots of labour charges, used motor cheaper option

the only way to find out what happened for sure is to remove engine and transmission, if clutch assy rotates freely by hand then pull engine apart
 

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The cost to repair would be high in terms of labor. The engine intermediate housing would have to be removed, then the sump dropped. The rubber parts are $18 x 5 each. So you might as well do the clutch as it must be removed to pull the housing. Then de-varnish the sprag clutch while you are in there since it is on the back side of the housing. The good news is the head and crank can stay put, no need to pull them.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks for that jzeiler, I dont think there will be any problems from running a few seconds with low oil pressure and clutch was renewed last year but what do you mean by "de-varnish the sprag clutch"? Should I renew timing chain/tensioner whilst engine out of the bike (95k miles)? I was away on holiday for last week so intend to start stripping the beast over the next few days. Thanks everyone for your helpful comments
 

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Your engine is most likely OK, but to fix this issue will require a significant tear down. In the first pic you see the sump and the intermediate housing. The crank fits between the upper sprag clutch/alternator drive and the lower main shaft.

The good thing is the crank does not require removal. Nor do you have to remove the cylinder head or timing cover. So I would not worry about the timing chain/guides or tensioner. They are usually good for 2-300K miles. Since you do have to pull the intermediate housing it is a simple task to remove the sprag and soak it over night in a good carburettor cleaner. That will ensure it will give you another 100K of good service.

In pic 2 you see just the sump and output shaft. Pic 3 shows the oil/water pump drive. The last two show the rubber bits that failed. But even at that there should have still been movement in the shaft unless the metal parts sheared. In that casue you would need a new output shaft. But maybe only the absorber on the shaft has sheared as it is $30. The part with the gear is $471.

The clutch housing bolts right onto that spline you see in the last picture.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks again, the pictures are an immense help to have an understanding of the job. I will let you know how I get on.
 

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I would, as a first step, pull off a rod cap and see if there is any damage. Would determine if I'd fix that engine or go looking for a replacement.
 

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It's a bit hard to believe that the fins/paddles on the shaft or gear driven cup would still be OK, also from what I understand reading Clymers there is preload which has to be set correctly, if the output shaft is defecitive it might be better to get a complete new one from the dealer
 

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after looking at the pic,s it must of sheared. even if the rubbers were gone it would still turn it would be incredibly noisey but should turn.i had that style cushion drive start to go bad in the rear sprocket of one of my ducati,s it made a loud racket long before it failed.
just a thought
 

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The entire shaft and the gear coupling together are almost $1000. $600 for just the part on the shaft and the gear coupling. Plus all the time in tearing it apart. Should be able to find a used engine for about that and save several hours of work. +1 on checking a rod bearing cap. I have found that #1 is the last to get oil and is usually the first to show excessive wear. You will need new bolts for the cap.
 
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