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Discussion Starter #1
I am on my third center stand actuator, fortunately all under warranty. Below info may prevent a failure and is so easy to do. This does NOT deal with the hydraulic pump, just the motor.
I just had mine replaced and kept the old one.
I took it apart, mild corrosion BUT the brush GROUNDING screw used in the motor is fine threaded steel, the housing it screws to is pot-metal aluminum. The screw actually loosened itself!
Perfect combination for galvanic corrosion, steel, aluminum, electrical, & moisture!
Took the screw out and replaced with a stainless steel screw and washers and a touch of never seize.
Works great.

Took my NEW motor off .
Very easy to do, disconnect 1 molex plug, 2 #5 allen bolts and did the same as above.
Do not pull the rotor and spline through the front brush end of the motor, just take the case off while holding the spline end with soft jaw vise-grips (the magnets want to keep the rotor with the case housing when you start to pull it off).
I unscrewed the brush grounding screw & washers and replaced with stainless steel.
The second screw just holds the plastic brush retainer in place.
I lubricated up the rubber seals and o ring (be sure to place o ring on motor assembly first) and re-assembled.
The assembly as designed should NOT get water in it, BUT moisture wicks through the flimsy flat gasket, I saw the trail in the housing.
Waterproof grease or thin coat of RTV should stop the moisture intrusion.
I am confident it last MUCH longer now!
Hope this helps someone from an expensive repair!
 

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Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
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You do know we now have a source for new motors for $49.00.


Look here Motor .
 

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Nice write up Joe, this must be a weak point in the motor as I had the exact same problem (here)
and solved it with the same solution although more by "accident" than intentional.

If any of y'all have a motor issue "listen to Joe"

Then again if we'd have had the $49 replacement option,
I could have saved myself a lot of frustration.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
jzeiler said:
You do know we now have a source for new motors for $49.00.


Look here Motor .
Sure do John and followed it closely, was a great post but got too long.
I just wanted to let folks know that my brand NEW EHCS motor has the same steel screw than will fail on the brush end ground side inside the motor. That make 2 failures for caused by the SAME screw!
The easy remedy was to seal & replace the screw and washers.
 

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Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
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Your write up is great.

I must have been lucky on my, 04 built, 05 as I have not had an issue with the motor. I may pull it apart now and see what I have for a ground screw. They may have changed it from the early production runs, plus my brushes should be wearing out pretty soon as I use it every time I ride.
 

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(Hopefully) This may be the solution to my problem of intermittent failure.

Been waiting for 30k (at 27k) to do a major service when all the body work is stripped.

John, can you give me a shout the next time you do a brake fluid change, would like to see it before attempting it.
 

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2005 K1200LT
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I'll give you a holler Kim, I'll be doing mine soon and I need a good camera man as I am filming it this time.

If you want we can do it on your bike at the same time only you will be turning the wrench.
 

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geez John.. when are you coming to Australia.... you can do a strip down and service on my '05 and I'll video it for you.... I've got lights, and pro gear at my disposal :wave

;)


(now that almost sounds like making a porno....:histerica )
 

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SmokinJoe said:
Sure do John and followed it closely, was a great post but got too long.
I just wanted to let folks know that my brand NEW EHCS motor has the same steel screw than will fail on the brush end ground side inside the motor. That make 2 failures for caused by the SAME screw!
The easy remedy was to seal & replace the screw and washers.
Just got mine back together this afternoon. I was without the EHCS since the end of last season and, with a Harley wrenching friend found that the brush screw was the culprit! I should have replaced the screw, but not being aware of the difference in metals creating a corrosion problem, I still have the stock screw in mine. One piece of advice for those of you who attempt this fix, the two screws that hold the motor to the actuator are not identical and if you're not paying attention when re-assembling and switch them, one of them will thread itself right into the nylon gear that drives the actuator. Trust me, that can (did) happen! That means that after you've re-assembled everything after testing the motor off the actuator, and you press the EHCS switch, nothing happens except you note the lights dimming from the drain on the locked up gear. Then you really stand back and scratch your head. We replaced the screws correctly and my stand is working, but I'm looking for a source for the nylon gear that was damaged on re-assembly. Any of you have any thoughts on a source for that??

Anyway, I'm glad to have mine working again and it was the posts on this forum that made it possible so, for those of you who contributed, thanks a bunch!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
wjhanna said:
One piece of advice for those of you who attempt this fix, the two screws that hold the motor to the actuator are not identical and if you're not paying attention when re-assembling!
YES one bolt is MUCH longer (I don't know why). I would still get the SS replacement screw & washer (bring the old with you to match). Also get a matching STEEL nut. I had to grind my SS screw shorter, so put the nut on the screw first, then grind, now you can UNSCREW the nut thereby cleaning the threads on the way off (SS being a softer metal and the fine threads can be a PIA if not cognizant of this)

The plastic gear? If it is just mashed but not cracked or missing a tooth, I would just lube it and leave it while I looked for a used unit. Be certain to grab the "O" ring and put it on the motor before re-assembly...
 

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SmokinJoe said:
YES one bolt is MUCH longer (I don't know why). I would still get the SS replacement screw & washer (bring the old with you to match). Also get a matching STEEL nut. I had to grind my SS screw shorter, so put the nut on the screw first, then grind, now you can UNSCREW the nut thereby cleaning the threads on the way off (SS being a softer metal and the fine threads can be a PIA if not cognizant of this)

The plastic gear? If it is just mashed but not cracked or missing a tooth, I would just lube it and leave it while I looked for a used unit. Be certain to grab the "O" ring and put it on the motor before re-assembly...

I intend to change the gear if I can find one. As I said, it's re-assembled AND working, but the damage to the gear can't be overlooked. It didn't crack, or go all the way through (almost, though), but I'm sure the threading probably compromised the strength of the gear to some degree. When that time comes, I'll replace the brush screw, too.

Today's gonna be a good day to ride to the car wash and pop it up on the center stand, one of life's little pleasures I've missed since last season!
 
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