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Discussion Starter #1
I had the same issue with the center stand as most. It need to be taken apart and cleaned and I followed the process that has been posted. I took the motor apart and cleaned also, it had a broken brush spring, which I replaced. I put everything back together but I could not get the piston to retract. After many times completely taking apart and rebuilding, I found my problem. The electric motor is running in reverse. If I reverse the polarity of the motor, it works fine. So, I connect the red lead to the negativhttp://www.bmwlt.com/forums/newthread.php?do=newthread&f=11#e post on a battery on my bench and brown lead to the positive post. When connecting up the motor up with the red lead to the positive post, the motor direction is counter clockwise. Any idea how to switch the direction of the motor. I do not want to switch the wires and connect it to bike because the positive wire would be connected directly to ground. Any help would be appreciated.

thanks
 

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dc3188 said:
I had the same issue with the center stand as most. It need to be taken apart and cleaned and I followed the process that has been posted. I took the motor apart and cleaned also, it had a broken brush spring, which I replaced. I put everything back together but I could not get the piston to retract. After many times completely taking apart and rebuilding, I found my problem. The electric motor is running in reverse. If I reverse the polarity of the motor, it works fine. So, I connect the red lead to the negativhttp://www.bmwlt.com/forums/newthread.php?do=newthread&f=11#e post on a battery on my bench and brown lead to the positive post. When connecting up the motor up with the red lead to the positive post, the motor direction is counter clockwise. Any idea how to switch the direction of the motor. I do not want to switch the wires and connect it to bike because the positive wire would be connected directly to ground. Any help would be appreciated.

thanks
My guess is that you have reversed the wire connections at the motor, when you replaced the brush/spring (usual problem is the thing you did last), The ground wire (brown wire) comes of the bolt holding the motor into the housing (if i remember correctly). If you use a meter you should have continuity from the motor (frame) to the brown wire at the plug & NOT from the motor frame to the RED wire at the plug. If not then you have things reversed at the motor connections.
Hope this helps.
Good Luck
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The connections are correct, the red wire connects directly to the one brush, it can't be
removed since the lead is soldered to it and it is isolated. The other brush is connected
by a screw to the base of the motor. Not sure what else to check.

Thanks,
 

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Hi Dale,

I know it is pretty tough to get the wires mixed but is it possible that something in your pump assembly got reversed? I mean that the motor is running the right direction but the fluid circulation got somehow reversed.

Did you take the pump apart and if yes, did you put everything back the same way?

Maybe this helps:

http://picasaweb.google.fi/pozoizquierdo/HYDRAULICCENTERSTANDOVERHAUL#

Regards
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks Ari,

Yes, I have take the pump apart about 12 times. How I found out that the motor was reversed was that I put the pump back together with out the large spring to push back
the shaft. When it still did not move, I just reversed the leads as a last resort and it
worked. I then disassembled the pump yet again, replaced the spring, filled with fluid,
removed the air and it works great, but with the red lead to ground. If I remove the
motor and check the motor direction, with the red lead connected to positive, it runs
counter clockwise. So, I believe the pump is fine, I'll keep working on the motor.

Thanks,

Dale
 

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Discussion Starter #7
An update on my problem. I never did find out why the electric motor was turning
counter clockwise. I ended up reversing the connections inside the motor to the
brushes. The brush that was connected to the red wire I was able to connect
it to the motor housing and the brush that was connected to the brown wire(ground)
I added a small wire and soldered it to the red wire connector. The motor then went in a
clockwise direction. I replaced the motor back into the centerstand and it works
great. I put it back on the bike and I now have my centerstand working again.
Thanks for all the suggestions and if anyone takes the electric motor off, please
let me know if the motor runs in a clockwise direction.

Thanks,

Dale
 

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Re: Electro-hydraulic center stand - failure

Have just suffered the same fate... centre stand failure on my '05 after just over 4 years of daily use, and a couple of days before a 4 day trip with the SO too.
Had no problems with it in all that time until...., went away for a 2 week holiday in SO's car, but once home and riding again (to work) it started failing to lift occassionaly. Don't think it liked being left at home and missing all those twisties in Tassie....
There's just a very minor amount of oil near the seal around the rod.

Have found the technical pdf and also Ari's pics of removal and repair (wonderful work guys...), which leaves a couple of questions...

1) roughly how long would you expect it take to remove, clean and repair the hydraulic, and replace? I'm no mechanic, but have ventured under the hood for some cosmetic work and farkling, so a little daunted but expect the price of a new unit (when I find that out from my local stealer) will drive me on with doing it.
2) where would I get the specific seals/parts that might need renewing? Picking up parts in Oz doesn't always seem to be as straight forward as it does for you US lads...
any suggestions welcome

regards
 

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Re: Electro-hydraulic center stand - failure

cws said:
Have just suffered the same fate... centre stand failure on my '05 after just over 4 years of daily use, and a couple of days before a 4 day trip with the SO too.
Had no problems with it in all that time until...., went away for a 2 week holiday in SO's car, but once home and riding again (to work) it started failing to lift occassionaly. Don't think it liked being left at home and missing all those twisties in Tassie....
There's just a very minor amount of oil near the seal around the rod.

Have found the technical pdf and also Ari's pics of removal and repair (wonderful work guys...), which leaves a couple of questions...

1) roughly how long would you expect it take to remove, clean and repair the hydraulic, and replace? I'm no mechanic, but have ventured under the hood for some cosmetic work and farkling, so a little daunted but expect the price of a new unit (when I find that out from my local stealer) will drive me on with doing it.
2) where would I get the specific seals/parts that might need renewing? Picking up parts in Oz doesn't always seem to be as straight forward as it does for you US lads...
any suggestions welcome

regards
Chris,

I hear you about the twisties in Tassie...I also did Tassie in a car WOW.
As to the removal of the EHSC, to get it out takes about 15 min & remember you only have to take out the EHCS the center stand remains.
I had the same problem after I had rebuilt my EHCS, the dash light would flash but nothing would happen, eventually found the the proximity switch located on the rightside on the centerstand bracket to be the problem. I just removed it from the bracket(loosen the screw & it slips out). This solved the problem iin that the prox switch was faultyy in sensing the centerstand being in the up position...switch cost $126 in Canada..still just have the switch floating loose.

Sorry can't help with the seals in Aussie, but I didn't replace any on my rebuild. I would just follow the rebuild guide to replace the oil which I'm sure is very dirty & see how it goes.

Good Luck
 

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Just make sure you don't over fill the unit with fluid or you will blow out the small formed o-ring seal in the main body. Fill it then cycle it in the horizontal position and add until you just get full travel. Then add a bit more at a time until you hear the relief valve open (you will know it).
 

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Hi Chris,

as Phil said you don't have to remove the whole centerstand / sidestand unit as I did (especially if you don't have a wheel chock to keep your bike upright). So 15-30 minutes to get it off -depending on how much time you spend with head sratching and tool searching...:)
Then another 15 minutes for a through exterior clean-up. Then one to two hours for taking the unit in small pieces, cleaning everything and putting it back together. You should not need any new seals as all of them are just o-ring type of things and you can reuse them as long as you don't loose them.

And John is right about the oil filling. I must have been plain lucky with mine since I just filled it by testing it frequently on the bench simultaneously when adding oil.

And one more hint:

My original trouble maker for all this EHCS hassle turned out to be the hand brake limit switch. It took me a very long time to realize that my hand brake limit switch was actually keeping my brake lights on even though I did not touch the lever. And this of course prevents the EHCS from working...

So please make sure that your hand brake limit switch actually releases when it is supposed to do so.

Regards
 

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Time to finally attempt this, as its Easter long-weekend coming up!
I'm damn sick of using the side-stand and the fat lady smoking when I kick her over (even after letting the oil settle after switching off!)....
Time to crawl over Ari's comprehensive pics.... again!! ;-)

Ummm, anyone know if its possible to get the bike up on the centre stand by holding down the stand and (with help) rocking the bike backward?
Or is it safer to leave it on the sidestand to undertake the repairs...????

...and is their a preference (when taking the unit apart) to having the hydraulic arm extended (bike on centrestand) or relaxed (bike off centrestand) - or it that the wrong way around?... its been so long since I've seen it up.... (no viagra jokes required... ;-) )

...and another question... noticed in Joe Gotteberg's notes that it says "hydraulic fluid"..
is there a special "hydraulic fluid" or will any "hydraulic fluid" work?
 

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cws said:
Time to finally attempt this, as its Easter long-weekend coming up!
I'm damn sick of using the side-stand and the fat lady smoking when I kick her over (even after letting the oil settle after switching off!)....
Time to crawl over Ari's comprehensive pics.... again!! ;-)

Ummm, anyone know if its possible to get the bike up on the centre stand by holding down the stand and (with help) rocking the bike backward?
Or is it safer to leave it on the sidestand to undertake the repairs...????
Yes you can hold the center stand down & get help to pull the Big Girl up onto it.
I did mine 3 times with her on the center stand. Just follow the directions in the write ups & she's easy to do. BUT only pull the mount for the Hyd Motor :).

cws said:
...and is their a preference (when taking the unit apart) to having the hydraulic arm extended (bike on centrestand) or relaxed (bike off centrestand) - or it that the wrong way around?... its been so long since I've seen it up.... (no viagra jokes required... ;-) )
When you put the bike on the center stand it will pull the hyd piston rod out.


cws said:
...and another question... noticed in Joe Gotteberg's notes that it says "hydraulic fluid"..is there a special "hydraulic fluid" or will any "hydraulic fluid" work?
No special fluid required just get some Hyd fluid from your local joint...usually referred to as Hyd Jack fluid.

Good Luck
 

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Bighopper said:
I did mine 3 times with her on the center stand.
Thanks Phil!

Dare I ask... why 3 times?
 

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cws said:
Thanks Phil!

Dare I ask... why 3 times?
Did the Hyd fluid changed & had a major crack occur in the body...repaired that & then went through a couple of adjustments with fluid amounts.
 

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OK, so spent a good part of the day working on the old girl (the bike, that is).

Got the actuator assembly out OK, took about an hour and a bit what with removing RH side lower fairing, and writing notes and taking pictures as I pulled things apart (great notes and pics Ari... pretty easy to follow through!)
Another 4 hours I had disassembled and cleaned all components per Ari's notes.

The one thing that did seem to be a problem was when I pulled the electric motor off and tried just turning the end, it was very stiff. So pulled it apart, cleaned out the dust and freed it all, also carefully cleaned the rotor parts to make sure nothing was caught between the sections.

Bolted everything together, added oil, and hooked it up to power on bike to test..... nothing.... tried a couple of times, then heard a very short grunt of movement.
Touched the electric motor and it was pretty warm. So disconnected it and removed the motor to test it by itself.
The motor "seemed" to turn freely, so hooked it up to power and tested, it wouldn't spin until I gave it a help by twisting the end. It ran a couple of times in quick test bursts, but got very hot.

So, it seems like the electric motor itself might be shot. Anyone know if these are replaceable outside "BMW land"? I can't imagine BMW would sell them individually if they don't have the actuator as a serviceable part.

?? :(
 

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Chris,

sorry to hear about your motor problem. You did not mention about the brushes, how did they look like?

I am not a professional electrician, just a self made man in that respect but from the experience I have for instance fiddling with my garage door opener ( a 24 V similar DC motor) I am a little doubtful about your motor being shot. A DC motor is a a quite simple piece of machinery. Unless you can really see that it is burned I would not loose the hope.

I would suggest that you do your testing on the table by using a separate 12V battery and feeding the motor wires directly from the battery terminals. This way you will eliminate all the other possible problem points.
Then I would double check the brushes and their connection and even change them just to be sure. You can get new brushes from your local Black&Decker, Bosch or whatever power drill / circular saw supplier. Just get oversized brushes and use a fine file to make them correct size. That is real easy.

At this stage this is all I can think of, I hope you get it working.

Regards
 

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Thanks for the info Ari.

We've (my old dad - ex-mechanic and I), spent 2 and half days on it now, but still no luck.

He pulled the DC motor apart again and found that a small part of one brush had broken off, and both appeared to be well worn. We sourced some other brushes from the variety of old car "bits and pieces" strewn around the garage, he filed them down and soldered them in.
Testing the motor it was very hit & miss on getting it to turn when powered, and when it did it sounded very rattly. He thinks the ball-bearing bush at the bottom is too worn.
So now I'm chasing a replacement.

Here's the other bit that was very strange... the oil pump.
Once cleaned and put back together, but without the first 2 bolts in it - the shaft turned nice and smoothly. Put the 2 bolts in, and slowly tighten... just past finger-tight, the shaft couldn't turn. Too much pressure on the 2 x fig-8 sections that the gears sit between locks it up. Looks like the rubber gasket is no longer thick enough to tighten the pump up, so we made a couple of paper gaskets to fit between the sections, just outside of the rubber gasket, to take the pressure of the centre section. Once we did that, I could tighten the pump up properly and the shaft still spins. ???

That problem may have led to the damage to the DC motor, stopping it from turning.... who knows...

anyway...

bike is back together without an EHCS actuator attached, so at least I'm still riding..
If i can't find a motor I'll have to look at ordering the entire actuator (ouch).

thanks for you assistance!
cheers


 

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Chris,

looks like you and your dad did a through job with analyzing the motor. Since your bike is still rideable perhaps you can spend some time looking for a part from beemerboneyard, LT-parts.com, or even Hannigan Trikes.
What does your dealer suggest as a solution?

Regards
 
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