BMW Luxury Touring Community banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
With 2 years of trouble-free ownership, my '99 LT with 68000 kilometers has hit its first glitch.
I last rode it about 10 days ago, and parked in the garage as usual. I put the new-this year Cytek US800 charger on the equally new Odyssey battery, and it has been showing its green light all week, as usual.

Today when I turned the key, nothing happened. Nothing on the dash at all.
No windshield, no PIAA, no headlight, no 3 way flashers, no light in the top case and obviously no starter.
However, with the key on, the radio would play normally, and the alarm system could be turned on/off.

Wondering if the Cytek was giving a false full charge signal, I hooked up another charger. It too shows a full charge.

So my question: Is there any logical reason why the bike would run normally on its last ride, but then be dead/totally unresponsive the next time the key is turned?

Any suggestions as to where I should start, to solve this? To me it makes no sense.
David
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,795 Posts
Yup... doa battery.

Even the Odessey can fail.... so, now the silly questions.. what is the voltage on the battery WITHOUT the charger connected.. and key off?

with Key on?

Are you sure you have the battery charger polarity correct? *see, I told ya there would be silly questions"
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,106 Posts
This is a silly question too, HAVE YOU CHECKED THE KILL SWITCH?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the suggestions- I don't consider ANY question silly. As the LT sits right now, only the radio works with the key on. Everything else is dead.

The kill switch- I did check it when it wouldn't start the other day.I don't use it though, after an LT owner suggested the wear and tear of regular use could wear it out prematurely. It prevents starting, but it doesn't kill all of the dash.

I found my multi-meter, and got the same reading on the battery, with the key on and off: 13.5v, so I assume it's not the battery. The last time I rode, I did have the grip and seat heaters on low, but they were off when I tried to start it.

I just took off the terminal connectors at the battery, to check for corrosion or perhaps a loose connection, but the lugs are clean as a whistle. (However, I now have a 10 mm socket to find, that dropped down beside the battery somewhere....)

I really don't know anything about the fusing on the bike- haven't had to do anything electrical. But some Harley and Suzuki guys at a neighbour's this morning said to check if a relay had stuck.
Is that a possibility?

The fella with the Suzuki cruiser picks up his new enclosed trailer on Tuesday- I might end up being his first occupant, once he gets the tie downs and chock installed. My closest BMW dealer is 45 minutes away.

It's a perfect fall day here, with our Thanksgiving weekend promising sun and mild temperatures for the next 4-5 days. Perfect for taking in the colours on the ride to the cottage.
In the truck.
David
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the tip, Don.
I just finished removing the battery. (had to find that socket anyhow- magnet on a coat hanger fetched it). Cleaned all the connectors just to be sure.
Put the battery on the charger while it was out- came to charge in 1 minute, and I checked it with the meter- 13+ v.
Put it back together but no easy fix in what I did: still no indication that juice is going to anything but the radio (I disconnected the alarm til this is solved).

I have a printed copy of the fuse chart ready to tape into the topcase, but haven't had a look in the fuse boxes. Honestly, I don't even know where they are, but I do have the K bike cd to check it out. I'll get back to it after taking the SO to work for 5.

Thanks for your input to date, Guys!
David
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
542 Posts
DeeJay said:
Thanks for the tip, Don.
I just finished removing the battery. (had to find that socket anyhow- magnet on a coat hanger fetched it). Cleaned all the connectors just to be sure.
Put the battery on the charger while it was out- came to charge in 1 minute, and I checked it with the meter- 13+ v.
Put it back together but no easy fix in what I did: still no indication that juice is going to anything but the radio (I disconnected the alarm til this is solved).

I have a printed copy of the fuse chart ready to tape into the topcase, but haven't had a look in the fuse boxes. Honestly, I don't even know where they are, but I do have the K bike cd to check it out. I'll get back to it after taking the SO to work for 5.

Thanks for your input to date, Guys!
David
The fuse blocks are under the pasenger seat right at the edge where the driver & passenger seats touch. You might also check the bolt connections on the starter. Where the + ties to the starter and also the mounting bolts that furnish the ground for the circuit.
They are hard to get to but are accessable from above with a long extension. I would not think it would be the relay since it is not trying to start as soon as you turn on the key without touching the starter button.
Good Luck
 

·
Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
Joined
·
13,921 Posts
Could be you are not getting a good ground through the starter to the load shed relay. There is a small 5mm allen head bolt that connects the top of the tranny housing to the rear of the starter. If that has come out you will have all sorts of issues.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
I pulled and checked the fuses in the three fuse boxes under the seat (6 x 4A. and 6 x 15A-) and all appeared fine. But haven't checked for continuity yet. The fusebox layout doesn't match the posted configuration, as noted above: instead of Box 1 and Box 2, each with 8 fuses, my bike had 3 fuseboxes, each with 4 fuses.
Did the layout change after 1999?

Am I correct in assuming that if some of these connections mentioned in the last two posts are loose, the whole system dies, not just the operation of the starter?

Efforts to solve this further will continue when I get home from the cottage.
Thanks for the suggestions.
 

·
Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
Joined
·
13,921 Posts
The fuse box design did change with the 2005 model year. You should have the three with the four fuses and they are a larger size fuse. You mentioned a new battery, often I find people miss one of the three wires that go to the (+) terminal when they replace a battery. So if you replaced the battery after your last ride look there first.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
542 Posts
DeeJay said:
I pulled and checked the fuses in the three fuse boxes under the seat (6 x 4A. and 6 x 15A-) and all appeared fine. But haven't checked for continuity yet. The fusebox layout doesn't match the posted configuration, as noted above: instead of Box 1 and Box 2, each with 8 fuses, my bike had 3 fuseboxes, each with 4 fuses.
Did the layout change after 1999?

Am I correct in assuming that if some of these connections mentioned in the last two posts are loose, the whole system dies, not just the operation of the starter?

Efforts to solve this further will continue when I get home from the cottage.
Thanks for the suggestions.


The loose ground could let some things function. Depending on where it is in the circuitry. Low current draw items could be following a ground loop circuit that would still let them function.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,306 Posts
Went over last night to check this out. The problem was the aftermarket alarm system has an immobilizer. If the alarm is not hooked up it kills the bike. Simple fix, connect the alarm system power wire to the battery and all is fine.

Happy ending. :)

Garry
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
garry_kramer said:
Went over last night to check this out. The problem was the aftermarket alarm system has an immobilizer. If the alarm is not hooked up it kills the bike. Simple fix, connect the alarm system power wire to the battery and all is fine.
Garry
Actually, the alarm was only disconnected AFTER I had removed the battery, cleaned the connections, checked for voltage, etc.. and reinstalled it. The power was dead before anything was unhooked.
I don't know how the immobilizer came into effect after the last ride- I didn't set the alarm, since the LT was in a locked garage.

But I did have the remote with me with my spare key on that last ride, in a jacket pocket. The only thing I can assume is that one of the remote's buttons got pushed accidentally as I shut it down/parked it, and I didn't hear the beep.
The alarm, however, didn't activate- there was no flashing light to indicate it had been armed. Since buying the bike, I had used the alarm only a few times, and had no idea it had the immobilizer function.
As Garry pointed out, I better be sure to carry a spare 15 amp fuse for the alarm, or I'd be high and dry if it went out.

But when we connected it back to the battery, we got the dash lights etc. only after toggling the buttons on the alarm remote.
My thanks to Garry for his help, though I feel stupid for not knowing about the immobilizer function. Heck, it only took two years of ownership to discover it.
Who knows what other surprises I'll find in the next 2 years....
DJ
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top