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Discussion Starter #1
So with the help of the videos and and threads, old and new, I managed to get my EHCS rebuilt. I only destroyed one wiper seal in the process so I'm feeling pretty good. I managed to get 130cc into the unit( I have no idea where you could put more). Since I don't have a spare battery I am unable to cycle the unit to test it. I pushed the plunger in manually to see if it was working. It works but not well. I think there is air in the unit but I don't know how to bleed it out without taking the chance of putting too much fluid in and causing damage. When pushing the plunger in I meet low resistance until about half way and then it gets harder to push in. It also makes noise as the rod returns to it's starting position. As I said I think there is air in there and I don't know how to bleed it out. Do I just drain all the fluid and start again? Go buy a battery so I can make it cycle through? Give up and use the center stand the "manly" way? All help will be appreciated and thanks in advance.
 

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Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
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It should move with a little resistance if you push the rod into the unit but it should move all the way in (there will be about 4 inches left when it bottoms out) and it makes swirling noises as it move in and out. You do not want all the air out or you will break the housing under power. No more than 140-145 ml. You can just strip some wire, poke it into the connector (red is + brown is -) and run it off a car (or bike) battery to test it. Just hold it so all the little ports (4 mm) are facing up and the unit is horizontal. I do all my filling from the big 19 mm spigot at the end of the unit don't use the 4 mm ports as they are easy to strip.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
oK so I hooked it up to the battery on the bike and it worked. Once. Now the motor works but the rod doesn't move. What's next? Thanks
 

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I guess the EHCS just needed some more love. I took it apart again and double checked my work. I decided to pull the motor off and check the o ring (should have left that one alone). Wasn't paying attention and pulled the motor Apart instead of off. Insert favorite swear words here. Fortunately I did take the advice of the Big Wrenches on this forum and had an extra on the shelf. Got it all back together and filled with fluid. Did a test with the battery on the bike and it works. Tested it again and it still works. Ima happy guy! Goes back on the bike tomorrow. Don't want to push my luck.
 

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2005 K1200LT
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Hooray!!
 

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I need some help. Stripped my EHCS with the help of all the videos. One question as I did not check direction of the casing. One end has the small hole on the side and on other end there is a small valve. Which side is going on the side of the motor and gears. The side of the motor do have a small O-ring on the main base.
Your help is much appreciated
 

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2005 K1200LT
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If you mean the cylinder then the internal hole goes at the top towards the end cap. The other end has an opening that matches up to the small hole in the case. This is "towards" the motor. Make sure you put something on the end of the shaft (hot melt glue works really good) before you slide it into the new shaft seal or you may damage it.
 

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Just ordered the seal kit from metric Seals. She knew exactly what I was talking about. Now that I think about it, I didn't even ask the price. Susan has a hot glue gun that I will be availing myself of to save the new seals during reassembly. I have a new motor I might as well put on if I am gong to the trouble of a rebuild. I was thinking about getting a 19mm bolt and drilling a hole in it and threading a fitting to attach to a measured reservoir for refilling it. last time it was pretty messy.
 

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I wrapped the threaded rod w/ teflon tape first time. Second time w/ that bit of hot glue stick (See John's photo.) It's a bit of a mess w/ the oil in any case. I used the cap from the oil bottle as funnel--quite slow cuz you can only put in an ounce at a time. John says he uses a 50ml syringe, which sounds like a lot more fun. If you're careful, you'll only be doing it once (famous last words--after the 5th time, I got pretty good.) so cleaning up once is not that bad. :)
 

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Just ordered the seal kit from metric Seals. She knew exactly what I was talking about. Now that I think about it, I didn't even ask the price. Susan has a hot glue gun that I will be availing myself of to save the new seals during reassembly. I have a new motor I might as well put on if I am gong to the trouble of a rebuild. I was thinking about getting a 19mm bolt and drilling a hole in it and threading a fitting to attach to a measured reservoir for refilling it. last time it was pretty messy.
Did you ask for the Zeiler discount? :grin:
 
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Just ordered the seal kit from metric Seals.


I was thinking about getting a 19mm bolt and drilling a hole in it and threading a fitting to attach to a measured reservoir for refilling it. last time it was pretty messy.
When you get the kit lay it out and take a picture of what all you get please.

You need to build a jig like I have.
 

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When you get the kit lay it out and take a picture of what all you get please.

You need to build a jig like I have.

OK John, here is your picture. You get the two 40X2 O-rings to seal the tube top and bottom, shaft seal and wiper, Split ring and the non split plastic band and the fat O-ring seal for the motor opening. What is not included is the 4.8x1.9 to seal the pressure tube on the outside of the piston tube to the pump/motor housing. I think I have some I sourced for the flush and fill I did when I first retrofitted mine. As long as you don't take the pump apart, that is all you should need to make it purr like new. Cost to my door was $ 143.53 Hopefully it will last for a few years once I am done.
 

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Thanks! That fat o-ring goes under the piston seal. Could you measure it? The little 4.8 x 1.9 can often just be reused without issue. You will find that the piston (if you use their seal) will be very hard to move as they made it too thick. It should be 1.3 mm. You can measure the thickness of your and see if it is greater than 1.3.
 

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Thanks! That fat o-ring goes under the piston seal. Could you measure it? The little 4.8 x 1.9 can often just be reused without issue. You will find that the piston (if you use their seal) will be very hard to move as they made it too thick. It should be 1.3 mm. You can measure the thickness of your and see if it is greater than 1.3.
Under the split ring or the solid one? I don't remember what it looks like and the pics are not clear where it goes. I guess it will be obvious later today when I pull it apart. It was actually inside the non split ring when the kit arrived.
 

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Got my center stand rebuilt today. Drained it and the oil I put in last year was not bad looking at all. I did find a potential source of my leak in a damaged O-ring on the side of the slave cylinder. Last year when I did the initial flush and fill during my 02 retrofit, I didn't get the pressure tube lined up correctly and when it hit the end of travel, it sprayed oil out from the interface between the slave cylinder and the housing. I loosened the cap and tapped the cylinder into alignment. What I didn't know is that the O-ring was damaged in that effort. It didn't leak on the bench test but I bet it started to seep under the load of lifting the bike after some time. There is an aluminum ring around the top of the wiper that you need to be careful not to damage in extracting. I found a small long screwdriver worked we I could just catch the edge coming through from the back side and lightly tap it from side to side and get it out. The wiper was easy to remove after that. Reinstalling, I found that the spacer behind the seal is perfect for getting the wiper and aluminum collar back in place with a soft rubber hammer so do the wiper first is my recommendation. I added some grease into the pump gear cavity making sure it covered as much of the gear teeth that were exposed. I suspect I could have rotated the gear and gotten grease all around but it is probably not necessary as it will carry around on the first few rotations. I previously bought a new motor so I installed it and did a bench test. The kit is lacking one O-ring which is the one I damaged. Lucky I had some 4.8x1.9 O-rings from the previous flush and installation. I would recommend if you do buy this kit which to my knowledge is the only source of the split seal and the secondary non split piston seal, that you get the missing O-ring before you start. These piston seals are not often bad so you can do this flush and fill without needing them most likely.

That having been said, the actual piston seals were troublesome. The split ring was no problem but the other was difficult to remove without damaging it and I didn't want to damage it. It is suspended all around with an O-ring underneath so it doesn't budge and there is very little room top or bottom to get any tool in and start it around for removal without damage. HELP text to John Jeiler friend and master of all things LT to see if this piston was one piece or two. It is one piece so you just have to bite the bullet and work the old one off and if it is damaged, too bad. If you don't have a new one, I don't recommend removing the not split piston seal as you will likely be needing a new one. I tried putting the piston in from the way it came out ( shaft out the end) but that kept distorting the circular seal so I tried putting it in from the other end ( shaft in the tube) split seal first and that seemed to be easier. Both ends of the tube are the same with the same bevel but it was easier to get the split seal in first and then the full circle seal. I used the hot glue method of making a glue collar around the threads to protect the seal and it worked well.

Refilling:
I tried Kirks method on his video as I didn't use that method the last time and found that I could not get the recommended 140ml of fluid in even with cycling of the piston. Kirk says 125CC or ML and that seemed to be the max I could get in with that method. John Zeiler uses the 19MM bolt on the side and by cycling the piston with my thumb over the hole, I was able to get the additional fluid in. you don't have to do a full cycle, just an inch or so to pull in the fluid in the bolt hole, add some more, cycle again with your thumb over the hole till you get 140ml in and then bolt it back up.

It is very tight with the new piston seals but it will wear in. bench test was successful with no leaks on a dead end of the piston stroke and a second of pressure against the stopped piston. Tomorrow will resume reassembly and then I am ready to ride once I have a RTE destination that is open for lunch.

Hopefully this will be reliable for many years now and the envy of all other riders. Many times have I pulled into a crowded lot of bikes and bikers, press the button and it starts to whir. All eyes turn to see what that sound is to see a large bike automatically going up on its center stand. So far, the most common reaction from all around it " Do it again!"
:wave
 

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Did that’s ketchup you used to refill your EHCS make it work better? :grin:
 

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Did that’s ketchup you used to refill your EHCS make it work better? :grin:
no, but it smells great every time I use it. >:)
 
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