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Discussion Starter #1
Hopefully, this isn't a duplicate thread, but I had the original message almost done when the new kitten jumped on the keyboard and the window disappeared! I don't see the message so I assume it got zapped by some crazy key sequence.

I just finished my 24K maintenance and forgot and installed the bodywork before greasing the centerstand. Both BMW and CLymer say the lower fairings must be removed to perform maintenance on the EHCS. Has then been your experience if you have done this job?

Also, is removing just the centerstand sufficient or does the actuator also have bushings that shold be serviced?

Is it easier to just remove the entire assembly? Although, it appears to me that this also includes the sidestand so I would have to strap the bike upright somehow.

I am debating just waiting until next winter as I can operate the center stand by hand and it is very smooth with no drag noticed, just the spring tension. Unlike the sidestand which had noticeable drag, which is now gone thanks to a shot of grease.
 

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No need to remove the tupperware, watch my little video on youtube.
Its pretty easy and you can extract the full EHCS unit while the bike is up on the centre-stand, then drop it back in when you are finished.
However the EHCS itself doesn't really need attention unless it is failing, but you can clean-up and re-grease the support areas (shown near end of video).
Only takes 10-15 mins to get it off.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
cws said:
No need to remove the tupperware, watch my little video on youtube.
Its pretty easy and you can extract the full EHCS unit while the bike is up on the centre-stand, then drop it back in when you are finished.
However the EHCS itself doesn't really need attention unless it is failing, but you can clean-up and re-grease the support areas (shown near end of video).
Only takes 10-15 mins to get it off.
Thanks. My actuator works fine so no need to remove that other than if something needed PM, but it appears that no PM is required for the actuator itself.

Now do you have a video for removing the centerstand itself? :)
 

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Voyager said:
Now do you have a video for removing the centerstand itself? :)
Nope, never needed to.
 

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Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
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You will eventually need to flush the oil in the actuator and that can be done without dissassembly through the 19mm bolt on the side. Just make sure you get all the old oil out and put in no more that 130-140 ml or you will bust the case.

Now removing the CS is easy it is just a little rough getting the springs off safely. Once you do that heat up the area behind the two bolts (blue loctite) and remove them. One of the pivot pucks has a circlip on it, use this to pry it out then the other side will come off. Clean and lube and reassemble.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
jzeiler said:
You will eventually need to flush the oil in the actuator and that can be done without dissassembly through the 19mm bolt on the side. Just make sure you get all the old oil out and put in no more that 130-140 ml or you will bust the case.

Now removing the CS is easy it is just a little rough getting the springs off safely. Once you do that heat up the area behind the two bolts (blue loctite) and remove them. One of the pivot pucks has a circlip on it, use this to pry it out then the other side will come off. Clean and lube and reassemble.
Do you lube only the two pivot point bushings? I wasn't sure if there was any way to lube the pivot where the actuator rod goes through.
 

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Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
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Voyager said:
Do you lube only the two pivot point bushings? I wasn't sure if there was any way to lube the pivot where the actuator rod goes through.
That is a given and it just falls out when you pull the actuator rod out of it. 2 pieces and a shim. It rides in plastic bushings so even when it gets dry there is not a lot of strain on the unit.
 

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jzeiler said:
That is a given and it just falls out when you pull the actuator rod out of it. 2 pieces and a shim.
Your bike must be too clean John... I had to force mine out the first time, and actually thought it was a fixed bearing at first..because the grease had dried up so much.
 

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Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
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I just figure I am stressing that poor actuator with my fat -ss on board so I try to make life easier for it. I end up fixing a few actuators in the course of a year and the only good way to test them is on the bike. So I get lots of opportunity to keep thing clean down there.:p
 

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:rotf:
 
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