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I have an '03 LT that needs a new rear rotor (loose - rattling).
I sent EBC and email requesting the appropriate part number .
The response says:
Rear MD615 $141, pads FA304HH $28 on a combo deal + shipping

My question is this... Does this price include everything I need?
When I click on the MD615 link at EBC's website, What I see is what looks like only the outer ring containing the friction surface. I know these rotors "Float" and it looks like not everything is there.

Anyone order this part number?

Also... Does the rotor perform well?

If so, did you get everything you needed?

Thanks
 

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I used CycleBrakes to order mine from. Yes everything is included, but you have to transfer the EBS ring, which can be a challenge(removing it). I drilled the screw heads off the retaining screws and placed the rotor in the freezer and then pried off the ring and pressed it on the new rotor. Some have found heating it works also. New screws are included so you dont have to worry about reusing the old ones.

HTH
 

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I think the part numbers are correct, but both items can be purchased for less from a stocking dealer. The rotor comes with everything you need except the ABS ring that you must remove from the OEM rotor and install on the EBC rotor. Some parts places will give you a 10% discount off their price if you belong to BMWMOA or BMWRA - at least they did when I purchased mine.
 

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I would also check you dealer as there is an updated rotor for the LT. The EBC rotor does hit the wheel on the LT. Ebc did not leave enough clearance when they made this part. Because of this when you torque the wheel down the wheel hits the tapered part of the rotor and you get flat spots on the wheel. There should be clearance here. This is how it was on my 02. I remachined this to match the stock rotor now the wheel torques down properly. I would do a search on EBC rotor before you make a final decision.
 

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I just replaced my rear rotor with the EBC unit and don't have any problem with clearance with the rear wheel. I used a heat gun to loosen the locktite on the three screws holding the ABS ring to the old brake disk and to heat up the ring until I could gently pry it off. I placed the ring on the new disk before it shrunk back to size and replaced the three screws with some blue locktite. No problems. Other than taking my time with the heat gun to heat the ring, it went pretty quick.


Believe me, they know the correct p/n if you tell them what bike it's for. The outer ring does not contain the friction surface. The friction surface is on the pads that you need to order also. Again, they will know what pads to toss in the box.

Just do it. It makes a world of difference.
 

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I think I was once one who said that I don't have any problem with the EBC rotor. Then after about 4-5000 miles I pulled it off and low and behold, I had the referenced rub marks. I could not feel them when under way nor hear them but the proof was looking me in the face.

I took the dremel and took a bit more off at each rub point and called it a day.

Is it a "problem"? In the true sense of the word yes, it is indeed a fitment problem. Since you cant see, hear, or feel it, I made a personal decision that it is so superior to OEM rotor and pads it was well worth it to just take a bit more off the rub marks to be sure and run it.

Only in one slight area was the wheel rubbed past the primer, until me and Mr Dremel got done :rolleyes:

Bunch of opinions on this topic and some have simply just added a second spacer.


Don't be put off, but be informed and use the search function.


McAllister said:
I just replaced my rear rotor with the EBC unit and don't have any problem with clearance with the rear wheel. I used a heat gun to loosen the locktite on the three screws holding the ABS ring to the old brake disk and to heat up the ring until I could gently pry it off. I placed the ring on the new disk before it shrunk back to size and replaced the three screws with some blue locktite. No problems. Other than taking my time with the heat gun to heat the ring, it went pretty quick.


Believe me, they know the correct p/n if you tell them what bike it's for. The outer ring does not contain the friction surface. The friction surface is on the pads that you need to order also. Again, they will know what pads to toss in the box.

Just do it. It makes a world of difference.
 

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LAF said:
I think I was once one who said that I don't have any problem with the EBC rotor. Then after about 4-5000 miles I pulled it off and low and behold, I had the referenced rub marks. I could not feel them when under way nor hear them but the proof was looking me in the face.

I took the dremel and took a bit more off at each rub point and called it a day.

Is it a "problem"? In the true sense of the word yes, it is indeed a fitment problem. Since you cant see, hear, or feel it, I made a personal decision that it is so superior to OEM rotor and pads it was well worth it to just take a bit more off the rub marks to be sure and run it.

Only in one slight area was the wheel rubbed past the primer, until me and Mr Dremel got done :rolleyes:

Bunch of opinions on this topic and some have simply just added a second spacer.


Don't be put off, but be informed and use the search function.
I too had the problem with the poorly made EBC rotor.

Am I reading your post correctly? Did you remove material from the area of the rear wheel that was hitting the rotor housing or did you remove material from the rotor housing (which is too thick)??
 

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I am not sure why some EBC rotors fit better than others. Lee and I both have replaced our stock rotors with EBC rotors. Lee’s bike had an issue with the rotor clearance, while mine appeared to be OK. We did discover my bike had two spacer shims installed from the factory and Lee’s bike only had one.

My rotor has been on approximately 12K miles and two tire changes and the clearance still is within limits.
 

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I removed it on the wheel itself. It was already rubbed, and again it was not through the primer but in a couple of light areas.

I just wanted to make sure I had clearance for the lug nuts.

I am pretty fussy and use a digital torque wrench on the lugs so know for sure I was hitting torque correctly. I figured if it only was taking paint and not primer, I had very little to take off to be sure.


lnowell said:
I too had the problem with the poorly made EBC rotor.

Am I reading your post correctly? Did you remove material from the area of the rear wheel that was hitting the rotor housing or did you remove material from the rotor housing (which is too thick)??
 
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