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Discussion Starter #1
I have completed the slave cylinder housing drain hole and am now reassembling the swing arm etc to complete the job using a very good set of instructions from some guy named Kevin Cook. I have been trying to source the BMW grease for the drive shaft splines or the Honda 60 substitute but have had no luck. The nearest BMW dealer is 250 miles away and they would have to order. There are 2 Honda dealers within 50 miles and they would have to order also. In asking them what they use in their shop, the Honda dealers didn't say and the BMW dealer said they use a "good quality grease". Go figure!! That's why I prefer to do my own work. I just felt if they had found a good substitute, I would see if I could get that locally.

Does anyone have any suggestions for sourcing the BMW grease or a suitable substitute.

I haven't drilled the hole in the clutch bell housing yet but I do plan to. It seems like a good idea especially since it should give an earlier warning of an oil leak problem in that area.
 

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Look for Molybdenum Disulfide

It's a black High Temp. Disc Brake grease. I bought a 14oz. can years ago, can't even remember where. I only use it on wheel bearings and splines. I looked for it at local auto supply, but I must continue the search. Dupont makes the best grease but is really pricey.
 

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How does it taste Grif? :D
 

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Moly is short for Molydbenum Disulfide

This lubricating compound is thick like a paste. I just called it a grease. It does not have to be in a tube. But retailers like to sell small quantities = greater profit.
 

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Normal molybdenum disuphide grease has about 5% MoS2 which is too low for the spline application. The Moly 60 is 60% MoS2. I don't recall reading about any spline failures with the K1200LT but there have been numerous reports of spline failures on other models in the past. I'm going to play it safe and stick with something that is at least 50% MoS2.

If you do a google search on moly60 you will find a lot of discussion on spline failures and lubricants.

You can try to order from here:

http://www.casporttouring.com/store/merchant.mvc?store_code=CST&screen=PROD&product_code=23500

I can't believe the Honda dealers don't have it in stock. My local dealer had it on the shelf when I needed it.

Good Luck,
Kevin
 

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kevincook said:
Normal molybdenum disuphide grease has about 5% MoS2 which is too low for the spline application. The Moly 60 is 60% MoS2. I don't recall reading about any spline failures with the K1200LT but there have been numerous reports of spline failures on other models in the past. I'm going to play it safe and stick with something that is at least 50% MoS2.

If you do a google search on moly60 you will find a lot of discussion on spline failures and lubricants.

You can try to order from here:

http://www.casporttouring.com/store/merchant.mvc?store_code=CST&screen=PROD&product_code=23500

I can't believe the Honda dealers don't have it in stock. My local dealer had it on the shelf when I needed it.

Good Luck,
Kevin
True all that. I took a much more severe bending over buying the Loctite Moly as it has a bit more moly in it the Honda brand. The LT's manual does not state anywhere that the LT's splines need lubing. When you drop the rear on the GT to change the lube, the manual states to moly it. So, I do.



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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks to all who responded. There was some great information there. That's what I like about this site. I have sourced an 8 oz. container of Locktite moly paste. The local supplier has to order it and I should have it by Thursday.

"Grifscoots", you're just gonna have to stop using that stuff as tooth paste. :D

Thanks again all.
 

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As a retired MechEngr in the fatigue machine design field, I strongly recommend going only for a Moly paste or at least a Moly based grease.

The official BMW white (?) stuff doesn't sound like high moly to me. They had an internal problem with spline lube specs some years ago that makes me suspicious even now. It has to be almost black in my book.
 

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Just called the Honda dealer here and he has it on the shelf, 9.98 but I will stop and buy it. Beats ordering it and shipping. Don't need it now but will have it if when I do. Figured when I drill the slave in the spring I will need it.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
LAF said:
Just called the Honda dealer here and he has it on the shelf, 9.98 but I will stop and buy it. Beats ordering it and shipping. Don't need it now but will have it if when I do. Figured when I drill the slave in the spring I will need it.
Good price. That same Honda60 is 23.95 here but the dealers don't stock it..
 

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ajs said:
Good price. That same Honda60 is 23.95 here but the dealers don't stock it..
Dang I though your money was worth more then ours now :D

I saw it online for 7.98 but with shipping it would be more and not worth it.

If it was not such a big deal I would buy it and send it to you, but that custom/declaring thing is a real pain when it comes to ANY kind of chemical :eek:

Hope you got/get it soon so you can get on with it. From what I read it is very important, and a job the factory does less then a stellar job of when manufacturing the bikes.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
LAF said:
Dang I though your money was worth more then ours now :D

I saw it online for 7.98 but with shipping it would be more and not worth it.

If it was not such a big deal I would buy it and send it to you, but that custom/declaring thing is a real pain when it comes to ANY kind of chemical :eek:

Hope you got/get it soon so you can get on with it. From what I read it is very important, and a job the factory does less then a stellar job of when manufacturing the bikes.
I appreciate the thought and know what you mean about chemicals and customs, but, as I said earlier, I have sourced a good product. A bit expensive, no doubt. It will outlast me, as Grifscoots has said, so it's a one time purchase.

I agree regarding the manufacturers seemingly cavalier attitude by times. As an example, when I disassembled the drive shaft I carefully noted the position of the forward and aft U joints and they were about 90 degrees out of phase with each other. BMW doesn't seem to pay much attention to this and I didn't detect any operational problems over the first 30,000 miles of operation of the bike. I can't help wondering, however, if that might have contributed to the transmission output seal and the pinion seal leaking.
 
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