BMW Luxury Touring Community banner

Downshift or Just throw out the clutch?

7K views 34 replies 27 participants last post by  Voyager 
#1 ·
Since there are a lot of riders on here with a lot of miles under their belt, I want to ask- When coming to a routine stop (stop sign, traffic light, etc.), do you downshift or disengage the clutch and coast to a stop? Why?
Thanks.
 
#2 ·
I don't shift and let the engine help me slow down. This also allows me to be in a lower gear if I need to give it gas for some reason. I would guess that holding the clutch in will burn the plate out quicker.
 
#3 ·
I downshift so I have power available to me for evasive maneuvers. Whilst at a stop light, I am in 1st gear with clutch in, again so I am prepared for the enexpected.
 
#4 ·
I don't do much town riding, but OMG, I live in BFE,...........that said,.... approaching a stop, I generally pull in the clutch, and shift down through the pattern, with out letting the clutch out.......I only am using the engine decompression when I feel like I really need it..........(coming down long mountain passes, etc)...........remember that the LT has a dry clutch....But, I do like to be in the proper gear to get out of a situation as quick if not quicker than I got into it.........some times you need to be able to escape a bad situation at an intersection...........Using the decompression to slow down is probably a good thing, but in BFE, clutch replacement is sort of on the 'major hasel'........List........If you keep the K engine in revs, (I like 4000 or so), your in the pwr and also able to slow down if you have to.......j..
 
#7 ·
I down shift and use engine breaking, then hold the clutch in while at the stop for all the same reasons listed in the above posts.
 
#8 ·
It depends on the situation. If I am out in the middle of nowhere I will just pull the clutch and shift down with speed. If I am in an area with traffic and red lights I might downshift. It is hard to say one way or the other for me, it is just what the situation calls for.
 
#13 ·
BeeTee said:
Since there are a lot of riders on here with a lot of miles under their belt, I want to ask- When coming to a routine stop (stop sign, traffic light, etc.), do you downshift or disengage the clutch and coast to a stop? Why?
Thanks.
I downshift. For a few reasons:

1. It helps to slow down with less wear on the brakes.
2. Should I see someone coming up fast behind me, I am in a gear that will allow decent acceleration should the need arise.
3. Most motorcycles are "return shift" and thus you have to go through all of the gears to get to neutral or first anyway and it isn't always easy to downshif 4 times while stopped.

You will often hear the "brakes are a lot cheaper than clutches" used as an excuse to not use engine braking while slowing. While this is a true statement, in 36 years of driving everything from motorcycles to 18 wheelers, I have NEVER worn out a single clutch. My current pickup is a 94 Chevy with 130,000 miles and 17 winters of plowing snow and its clutch works like new. I ran a Jeep Comanche to 150K on the original clutch. Likewise, ran two VW Beetles past 100K and a Chevette to 115K and never wore out a clutch and I always use engine braking.

I have, however, worn out MANY sets of brake shoes and pads, so while a clutch costs more than brakes, if clutches never wear out the argument does not hold. :)
 
#14 ·
Voyager said:
I downshift. For a few reasons:

1. It helps to slow down with less wear on the brakes.
2. Should I see someone coming up fast behind me, I am in a gear that will allow decent acceleration should the need arise.
3. Most motorcycles are "return shift" and thus you have to go through all of the gears to get to neutral or first anyway and it isn't always easy to downshif 4 times while stopped.

You will often hear the "brakes are a lot cheaper than clutches" used as an excuse to not use engine braking while slowing. While this is a true statement, in 36 years of driving everything from motorcycles to 18 wheelers, I have NEVER worn out a single clutch. My current pickup is a 94 Chevy with 130,000 miles and 17 winters of plowing snow and its clutch works like new. I ran a Jeep Comanche to 150K on the original clutch. Likewise, ran two VW Beetles past 100K and a Chevette to 115K and never wore out a clutch and I always use engine braking.

I have, however, worn out MANY sets of brake shoes and pads, so while a clutch costs more than brakes, if clutches never wear out the argument does not hold. :)
Gotta go with this. I've always used engine braking to my advantage, assuming the stop was planned. It seems to make for less frenzied decelerations, and always communicates 'seasoned' to those around. Even though I've only been riding for a couple weeks, I've had decent stoplight convos because i haven't looked like a hard-braking newbie. I would say, use the clutch and gears as you can, unless you need the stopping power.
 
#16 ·
I always use engine breaking for planned stops to supplement the breaks, in fact this technique is on the Indiana MC Operators test. There are times when Engine breaking could be a hindrance to an emergency stop though I found this article that explains how breaking works, it's really concentrating on the breaks themselves in relation to tires and load so doesn't mention engine breaking except in passing, but it appears to highlight the instances where engine breaking would want to be avoided.

http://www.lazymotorbike.eu/tips/braking/

-Preston
 
#17 ·
palarimer said:
I always use engine breaking for planned stops to supplement the breaks, in fact this technique is on the Indiana MC Operators test. There are times when Engine breaking could be a hindrance to an emergency stop though I found this article that explains how breaking works, it's really concentrating on the breaks themselves in relation to tires and load so doesn't mention engine breaking except in passing, but it appears to highlight the instances where engine breaking would want to be avoided.

http://www.lazymotorbike.eu/tips/braking/

-Preston
Why do you want to break your engine? I prefer to keep my engine unbroken! :)
 
#18 ·
I downshift through all of the gears, always. Those who don't likely always hog the left lane, too. :rotf:
 
#20 ·
Down shifting and using your engine as a brake is the most effective means of stopping any manual shift vehicle. Some of the early motorcycles actually specified this technique in the owners manual since using the brakes only would not stop you. :mad: Whether you use this technique or not you do need to ensure you are in first gear before you stop. This is taught by MSF. The reason is two fold; if you are in first when you stop and the clutch is disengaged you are ready to take off in the event you need to make an evasive maneuver. Secondly it is easier to down shift your transmission while the output shaft of the transmission is still spinning.
 
#21 ·
K12smitty said:
Down shifting and using your engine as a brake is the most effective means of stopping any manual shift vehicle. Some of the early motorcycles actually specified this technique in the owners manual since using the brakes only would not stop you. :mad: Whether you use this technique or not you do need to ensure you are in first gear before you stop. This is taught by MSF. The reason is two fold; if you are in first when you stop and the clutch is disengaged you are ready to take off in the event you need to make an evasive maneuver. Secondly it is easier to down shift your transmission while the output shaft of the transmission is still spinning.
This is a little confusing to me. I have found myself in situations where I had to down shift from 5 to 3 while in motion to accelerate. Every time I do this, in my head I and the feeling that I am hurting the clutch. Please educate me here someone. Is it okay to do that? What effect does this have on the clutch vis-a-vis the engine at this sudden down shifting and the high revving engine.

I am VERY fond of this as a means of gaining momentum or just to rocket myself out of situations on the highways. Is it bad.
 
#22 ·
Most of the clutch wear comes from slipping the clutch. With proper clutch and trottle, this can be at an absolute minimum. Don't shift down from gear 5 to gear 3 and not be reving the engine at an apropriate speed--where the speed of the motor and the spinning of the drive train are far apart. Once clutch is engaged, you can lay off the trottle and use normal engine slowing and brakes. Practice makes perfect and you can extend the life of your clutch to almost indefinite--I said almost. Many here have well over a 100 miles without any clutch plate problems.
 
#23 ·
I've always used engine braking and down shifting when coming to a stop till I did some training with the late Larry Grodsky (Stay'n Safe - RIDER Magazine). He said he used brakes rather than engine braking when coming to a stop. His reasoning was that brakes were a lot cheaper and easier to replace than clutches.

That said, of course, when at a stop sign keep the bike in gear with the clutch pulled in so that you can move quickly in case of a problem. Sitting there in neutral leaves you VERY vulnerable, especially if you're about to be rear ended.

JD
 
#24 ·
Humm, BMW Performance School says that you have maximum traction for stopping with the clutch disengaged?? I disengage the clutch and slowly downshift to be in 1st when stopped, 200K+ no clutch problems
 
#25 ·
omoige said:
This is a little confusing to me. I have found myself in situations where I had to down shift from 5 to 3 while in motion to accelerate. Every time I do this, in my head I and the feeling that I am hurting the clutch. Please educate me here someone. Is it okay to do that? What effect does this have on the clutch vis-a-vis the engine at this sudden down shifting and the high revving engine.

I am VERY fond of this as a means of gaining momentum or just to rocket myself out of situations on the highways. Is it bad.
No harm to the clutch will happen if you are quick on the lever and don't let the clutch "slip" between gears. I often don't even use the clutch between gears if you time the rev's correctly.

I have driven my MGB at least 70 miles over the years without a releasable clutch (crappy throw out bearings x3). Just slip it into neutral and shut off the engine as I roll to a stop - slip it in first. When the light turns green start the engine and up shift through the gears and down shift as necessary.

I would not try this on the LT as the MG has real gear engagements with syncros, the LT has gears fully meshed all the time and selects the ratio with four crude shift dogs. This requires a great deal more finess to shift with out releasing the clutch.

Did I say I always down shift through several gears even in panic stops? Never know when that panic stop will turn into an "oh crap I gotta get out of the way now" situation.
 
#26 ·
I downshift through all the gears and try to gauge myself so I'm just about stopped at the end of the shifts. I always just pull in the clutch then. I see some that then shift up into neutral to sit at a light. I don't as I stay in first gear and looking in my mirrors to see if I need to make any sudden adjustments to my position to keep from becoming a hood ornament. I've had to do that one time since owning the LT.

My only accident since back riding is a minor rear-ender on the GL1800 while completely stopped. I didn't fall over, somehow managed to keep it up right, but the bike suffered about $2,000 damage to the trunk and bags and mounts.

Be safe and Happy New Year to all.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top