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Discussion Starter #1
Well Just changed all three oils again. About 3500 and mostly Fall/Winter with the 10-40w in the crankcase.

FD plug all but clear. Transmission plug slight paste, and I mean slight, better then the last time on both of them for sure.

So I decided I was going to try some Moly in the FD and Transmission just for grins and giggles.

Did a lot of reading and ended up using Dow Corning M Gear Oil Additive.

Here is a link to read the Product Data, Automotive.pdf on it:

http://www.dowcorning.com/applications/search/default.aspx?R=28EN&DCCSF=1622EN

I have to say a quart is VERY pricey to the door.

I did the math at a 7% ratio and the recommended is 5-10%. It came out to like 1 Tbs for the FD and 2.5 for the Transmission.

I was very surprised at its consistency, and it takes a lot to mix or move it off the side of a funnel with gear oil.

I will never know if I have done anything to improve it unless I get into the FD or Tranny and really hope not to have to deal with either.

Anyone else using Moly in anything?
 

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I use an oil (engine, drivetrain etc) that has moly as a portion of its original blending. I'm getting very good results, according to UOA, but I'm very hesitant to use additives in my oils. Any time you add something, you're playing chemist, and you're displacing the original oil. A good oil is already blended properly, and by adding something else, you've displaced what the original mfg. offered. If your oil is good enough to use, why would you need to add anything? Just my thoughts.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well I like the idea of Moly in these areas. While I see your point on "well the oil is good enough" is it the best it can be? As I said Moly in this true form is VERY expensive. Not sure that an oil manufacturer would add in the amounts that I am now.

Paul Glaves made mention of using Moly and that is why I am trying it. As far as displacing oil amounts 1 Tbs in the FD, and 2.5 Tbs in the Tranny is not something I am going to fret over.

Did you read the fact sheets on the link I posted? Did you see the gear "healing" photos?

I understand your thinking but I also like the idea of protecting gears better then anything I have come across in any oil or additive to date.

Also you do realize we are only talking Gear Oil here not engine oil.

I still would like to know if anyone else is using Moly, or have any scientific/engineering insights?
 

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I guess what I don't understand is why you added the moly. Your comment, unless I misunderstood, was that your magnetic plugs in both FD and transmission came out very clean. That would be an indication that your oil is doing its job. Beyond looking at the plug, used oil analysis is the next step, one I take continuously. So back to my question, if the oil is doing its job, why add anything? And that's not an argument against moly. Like I said, the oils I use have moly in them, and I'm very satisfied, based on UOA.

One step I might recommend that you, or anyone else thinking about changing oils, or using additives, is to monitor heat. While it's only a part of the puzzle, lowered heat should suggest less friction. When I switched to my current brand of oil, I took my bikes out and ran some tests with a heat gun. I ran a circuit with one oil, changed to my current oil, and re-ran the same circuit. I measured a 14 degree drop in engine oil temps. After that, I submitted oil for analysis and recorded an amazing drop in wear metals.

I did read the information that DOW offered, and a few things concerned me. One was their liberal use of the word "most" when suggesting it mixes with other oils, reduces wear etc. And then I was concerned about their statement that it won't mix with some synthetics, such as diesters. That's why I'm hesitant to play chemist.

Just my thoughts: worth what you paid for them!

Have a good one.
Frank
 

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fpmlt said:
One step I might recommend that you, or anyone else thinking about changing oils, or using additives, is to monitor heat. While it's only a part of the puzzle, lowered heat should suggest less friction. When I switched to my current brand of oil, I took my bikes out and ran some tests with a heat gun. I ran a circuit with one oil, changed to my current oil, and re-ran the same circuit. I measured a 14 degree drop in engine oil temps. After that, I submitted oil for analysis and recorded an amazing drop in wear metals.
Frank
Hey Frank,
Not to turn this into yet another oil thread but what oil are you using? I like those results.

Regards,
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thank you for the advice and comments.

I need to run it and see what an oil analysis says on the next change. and there after.

As you noted oils are not the same or you would not have seen a 13 degree drop. I am assuming from dino to synth? Even worse if from dino to dino, or synth to synth. Proves the point pretty well.

Anyway NOT an OIL THREAD.

I would only ask have you not used any gas or oil additives? I use CD2 about every 3rd change for a few miles in my engine oil to clean it. I use Sea Foam, and Marvel Mystery Oil in the gas alternating every few tanks.

I will start running spot temps on FD and Tranny Pan with a heat gun. That is a very good idea but I have no base, but still I am curious and will head your advice.

Does your oil give you the Moly content?

I guess I just believe in better living through chemistry :)


fpmlt said:
I guess what I don't understand is why you added the moly. Your comment, unless I misunderstood, was that your magnetic plugs in both FD and transmission came out very clean. That would be an indication that your oil is doing its job. Beyond looking at the plug, used oil analysis is the next step, one I take continuously. So back to my question, if the oil is doing its job, why add anything? And that's not an argument against moly. Like I said, the oils I use have moly in them, and I'm very satisfied, based on UOA.

One step I might recommend that you, or anyone else thinking about changing oils, or using additives, is to monitor heat. While it's only a part of the puzzle, lowered heat should suggest less friction. When I switched to my current brand of oil, I took my bikes out and ran some tests with a heat gun. I ran a circuit with one oil, changed to my current oil, and re-ran the same circuit. I measured a 14 degree drop in engine oil temps. After that, I submitted oil for analysis and recorded an amazing drop in wear metals.

I did read the information that DOW offered, and a few things concerned me. One was their liberal use of the word "most" when suggesting it mixes with other oils, reduces wear etc. And then I was concerned about their statement that it won't mix with some synthetics, such as diesters. That's why I'm hesitant to play chemist.

Just my thoughts: worth what you paid for them!

Have a good one.
Frank
 
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