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Discussion Starter #1
Or is this typical?
It's a 2000 K1200lt with 27k
I picked it up with a blown clutch and as I'm going through it I need an experienced set of eyes to tell me if this driveshaft is standard or not.
The second picture is of the cause of the clutch failure I'm guessing.
Thanks for the opinions.
I've already had a fellow member bring me the tools to complete the clutch repair
This is the best group ever:)
 

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I would not be using that drive shaft it shouldn't look like that, he's given it a bloody good flogging, and yep the p.o would have possibly saved the clutch if the relief hole had been drilled.

should look like this
 

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Yep, that drive shaft is toast. Ebay usually has some to spare and yep, that is as you said, is a good guess as to the cause of your clutch slipping.
 
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Or is this typical?
It's a 2000 K1200lt with 27k
I picked it up with a blown clutch and as I'm going through it I need an experienced set of eyes to tell me if this driveshaft is standard or not.
The second picture is of the cause of the clutch failure I'm guessing.
Thanks for the opinions.
I've already had a fellow member bring me the tools to complete the clutch repair
This is the best group ever:)
WTF?:kaboom::kaboom::kaboom:

Never seen that... Luckily you know someone that has a spare drive shaft laying around... Hmmm who could it be?:wave

Let me know...
 

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Or is this typical?
It's a 2000 K1200lt with 27k
I picked it up with a blown clutch and as I'm going through it I need an experienced set of eyes to tell me if this driveshaft is standard or not.
The second picture is of the cause of the clutch failure I'm guessing.
Thanks for the opinions.
I've already had a fellow member bring me the tools to complete the clutch repair
This is the best group ever:)
Looks like so one tried to do burn outs with that LT. I'd say it is toast.

That slave looks familiar. Other than a different color gear oil, I saw much the same thing last May...
 

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Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
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If I hadn't seen the fluid I would say it was just your drive shaft that was slipping. That is not unheard of in the LT community, only seen maybe 10 so far in 13 years on this site.
 
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Discussion Starter #7
WTF?:kaboom::kaboom::kaboom:

Never seen that... Luckily you know someone that has a spare drive shaft laying around... Hmmm who could it be?:wave

Let me know...
Yeah I got the call a few hours ago....:)
Unfortunately I was a little to fast on the trigger and had one already on it's way from Ebay.
I think the good thing about these bikes is that there are a lot of spare parts around since they cost so much to keep up.
Thank you for your support as Bartles and James used to say
 

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Add another to your list: 2009, 47k,
Replacing shaft AND clutch. Shaft rubber failing in significant way. Friction material almost down to rivets.
Apparently prior owner was a bit harder on it than I suspected.
Replacing seals etc while in the major wrench dance.
Might be a good time to refi the house so I can free her from the dealer on Friday
 

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I would replace the oring and the real main seal while in there for the clutch. Your bike doesn't have many miles on it. Since you have the transmission out, I would replace all of the seals, if not at least replace the input and output shaft seal. I learned the hard way and my tranny went out on a trip. After that, I replaced every seal in the transmission housing as well as the bearings in the tranny. Replacing the bearings in the tranny requires a transmission tear down.
 

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For sure the 19x4 oring. I think it is a toss up on the main seal. Use a viton oring there also. If you need one, let me know.
 

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For sure the 19x4 oring. I think it is a toss up on the main seal. Use a viton oring there also. If you need one, let me know.
I agree. I used a viton o-ring, but left the main seal untouched. Mine had the new style Teflon seal and they are known to last a long time. Sometimes you can do damage replacing a seal. My philosophy is "it it ain't broke don't fix it." I replaced the three rotating shaft seals in my transmission as they showed signs of leaking. I did not replace the three smaller seals (shift actuator, reverser and I forget the third one) as they weren't leaking and looked hard to replace externally. I slightly damaged the bore for the rear input shaft seal while removing the seal. It sealed ok with the new seal, but that is why I don't replace seals that don't show visible distress, unless I am opening the case where I can drive them out and don't need to drill and use screws to pull them.
 
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