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Discussion Starter #1
While bleeding the clutch slave, I noticed some pretty severe corrosion around the hydraulic line leading into the cylinder. I always thought that a good 316 or 416 grade stainless was required on vehicle hydraulic lines. Is this just some cosmetic issue, or a line thats about to split open. What gives?
 

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It does not look good to me. I would go ahead and have it replaced.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Anybody else see this on a 2000? What was BMW thinking by making this a regular steel line? :mad: It clearly looks like its due to the upward slant of the line going into the cylinder. Water and other corrosive crud can seep down between the rubber sleeve and the line. When I replace it, I think I will get some shrink-tubing and hit it with the heatgun to try and seal it off. Since I have to take the whole back of the bike off anyway, might as well replace the cylinder and drill the housing while I'm at it.
 

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Sofitel505 said:
While bleeding the clutch slave, I noticed some pretty severe corrosion around the hydraulic line leading into the cylinder. I always thought that a good 316 or 416 grade stainless was required on vehicle hydraulic lines. Is this just some cosmetic issue, or a line thats about to split open. What gives?
Great picture Eric. Scares the hell out of me. I too have a 2000. Recently put new SS braided brake lines on because of a rupture on one. In my opinion also caused by a design flaw.
Can you post another picture ( or a description) showing where to look to see what you are seeing in this attachment. If I am lucky, and mine is not too bad, maybe I can hit it with some lube or rust converter to slow the process down. I don't mind replacing the hose but from what I understand it is some major labor just to get to it.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Wally,

To see this thing, you will probably need a little MagLight or something. Get the bike on the center stand and crawl under it so your head is in front of the rear wheel and look towards the front of the bike and up about 60 degrees. That critter is right between the rear drive/swingarm pivot point and the black crossbrace that sits right below.

Im going to order a new one tomorrow along with a new output cylinder. Its item 4 on the attached. Cost unknown at this point. But based on the diagram, you dont have to run it all the way up to the master. I think I can do it myself since its likely going to be a $400 labor bill at the shop.
 

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Got a peek at mine last night. Without knowing exactly where to look I would have never stumbled across it. Anyway, mine looks OK, as far as my bifocals can tell. I could not see any signs of rust although a couple hours after riding home in the rain yesterday there was water hanging on to the spot you have pictured. I agree, a slight difference in their installation could have made this a non issue. At this point I think I'll add it to my oil change maintenance list to add a shot of WD-40 to it. That should keep it OK until BMW comes out with the revamped LT next year. I have 65,000 on mine now and except for the ruptured brake line ordeal, I am still happy as hell that I bought it.
 

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Mine was starting to do that on my '99. The protective sleeve that guards against abarasion damage had slipped or was installed with the lower end pushed over the fitting thus trapping any water which entered the top of the sleeve. I was lucky to catch it early enough.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
OK. Got the pressure line on order and since the bike has 41K on it, I ordered a new output cylinder too. To get at them, are there any special tools required for the drive/swingarm removal beyond standard metric sockets/wrenches? I just dont want to be 80% into the teardown and hit a wall.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
meese said:
Yes, there are some special tools required, but with those you can do the procedure in your garage. Check this thread, this thread, this thread, and this thread for more info.
Excellent. Thanks Ken, now I'm ready to attack this thing if the parts will ever show up. :( Definitely going to soak that swingarm pivot with some liquid wrench overnight. Don't feel like throwing my back out on this. Would kinda defeat the purpose of DIY when you have to make it up on Dr bills.
 

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Temp. Fix

My 2000 has a lot rust also. I want to do a temp. fix, so what product can I use to clean off the rust with. When I have the rust off would would LPS #3 be a good rust inhibitor to use? Any other ideas?

Jim Campbell
 

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Discussion Starter #14
kb0lxx said:
My 2000 has a lot rust also. I want to do a temp. fix, so what product can I use to clean off the rust with. When I have the rust off would would LPS #3 be a good rust inhibitor to use? Any other ideas?

Jim Campbell

Whoa! and I mean WHOA! No sooner did I get that old slave cylinder unbolted did that line start to weep right at the corrosion. I shudder to think we just had that bike up in the hills and 500 miles from home in this condition. Jim, if you have what I have, there is no "temp. fix". This is a major. The protective sheath traps water and other corrosives, so on the new one, I trimmed it back and ziptied them so they dont creep up on the metal.

One things for sure, they got 10 lbs. of sheit in a 5 lb. bag on this bike. Just trying to thread the new pressure line under the tank and down was an ordeal. Lots and lots to go wrong with this thing. I'm having a crisis of faith. I need to get on and ride it again to regain the love.
 

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Eric

Would you list the part numbers. Looks like I need winter project. Also if you have the torgue specs.

Jim
 

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Discussion Starter #16
kb0lxx said:
Eric

Would you list the part numbers. Looks like I need winter project. Also if you have the torgue specs.

Jim
The output cyl. is 21522333433 and the pressure line is 21522333450. I don't have the torque specs yet as I'm still in disassembly mode.
 

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kb0lxx said:
Eric

Would you list the part numbers. Looks like I need winter project. Also if you have the torgue specs.

Jim
The banjo at the slave is 7 Nm and the joint at the other end is 10 Nm. Strange design to have a joint in the middle of the hose. Must be to make it easier to thread through under the fuel tank. Good catch! I'll be watching mine for corrosion.
 

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Torque specs are in the Hall of Wisdom. Here is the full chart.
 
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