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Discussion Starter #1
My rear end is still producing small particles of carp.
No failier yet though - been like this for 3k now! Changing fluid every week and it's comming out cleaner each time and less particles.
But I have heard that a good way to clean out an area like this is to diesel flush it. Pop the juice in, run on center stand for a tick over and change it out again.

Any reason why this may be a bad idea?
 

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Any remaining diesel will dilute the rear drive oil, so it may take a couple changes of regular fluid to get rid of the diesel. Not sure about impact to the seals.

Dave
 

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Although more expensive, your current method of flushing the drive using rear end oil appears to be the safest method; lubricating components while holding particles in suspension until drained. Personally, I would not use diesel; it is a fuel and may not provide the lubricating qualities needed by the gears as they mesh/turn, even in a no-load condition. Additionally, I don't know what the fuel will do to any seals.

Just my .02
 

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c00k1e said:
My rear end is still producing small particles of carp.
dronning said:
Not sure about impact to the seals.

Dave
Hopefully, the seals will eat the carp :histerica(sorry, couldn't resist!!).
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Cheesr guys, just what I was after. I will give it 2 more regualr changes before putting the strawbury gloop in.

ps - nice one wooly
 

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Cookie..
The Diesel stuff, being oily, can help to clean/flush....usually.. However, I'd be more likely to run some standard Motor oil, 30W through it... but DO NOT ride it... just add, spin, flush....

Once you've done that and satisfied the trash is flushed, allow to drain a couple of hours.... add in your standard lube.... spin.... flush and check again for sparkles....

Now, ride and check again. If you clean the area.... and are CAREFUL you might be able to keep the oil perfectly clean and reuse... then again, maybe a final flush..

Hope it works out for ya..
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Cheers cfell, as usual, you come to the rescue.
Can;t believe the bike is still running with this rear end. Doesn't seem to want to give up.
If it does, then it shows that we do have quite a few thousand miles worth of warning maybe.
 

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It would seem to me that if you are (and have been) getting metal flakes or pieces of metal big enough to identify as metal from your rear gear differential, there is something wrong. Getting fewer bits and pieces out at each gear lube change may sound like it is getting better - but surely some damage has been done - or there would not have been metal bits there to start with. The only thing I have found when changing the rear lube (which is every other oil change) is some dark residue on the magnet, which I think is normal - can't say the same for the transmission however.

If on the other hand, you can ride another 35,000 miles for only the cost of the extra lube - you may be well ahead because by then, BMW will have stepped up to the plate and issued a 150,000 mile retroactive warranty on said part and parts. I dreamed I stayed in a Holiday Inn Express last night.
 

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Well it don't have to cost you an arm and a nut.
How about 10w hydrulic oil, it's not a fuel yet much thinner than most any other oil.

Filter the lube your using for the flush and reuse it. Use coffee filters, t-shirt whatever old cigarette butts (actully know a guy does that on his tractor)
Rock
 

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Woolly said:
Hopefully, the seals will eat the carp :histerica(sorry, couldn't resist!!).
Hee haw. I was going to ask if he'd been using fish oil in the RD.
 
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