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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I installed the 3Way Hyper-Lite (combination brake lights and turn signals) and the PDM60 on my 2014 RT yesterday. Hyper-Lite sent me the wrong instructions for my 2014 RT--even though they were labeled for the 2014 RT, they described a taillight assembly and process for another bike, so beware.

You don’t need to remove the luggage rack or the taillight if you follow bdfbeemer’s hint to get to the wires under the passenger seat. To paraphrase bdfbeemer: follow the wires back from the taillight to a workable area under the passenger seat. If you trace the wire back from the taillight you can access it by finding where the wire loom splits and a branch goes to the rear power socket and a branch heads to the taillight (thanks bdfbeemer). Carefully remove a section of the tape wrap, forward of this branch, to expose the wires you will need. The color scheme is:

Gray/yellow is the brake light
Gray/red/yellow is switched 12 volt for the taillight (instant on and off)
Brown is ground
Blue/gray is the right turn signal
Blue/red/gray is the left turn signal

I installed the PDM60 first and wired its power and ground straight to the battery. I used the gray wire with the red stripe and yellow marks as the switched trigger for the PDM60 (it’s the taillight power so it’s 12 volt instant on and instant off). If you are not using a PDM60 or fuse block, this switched power source will be your 12 volt source for the Hyper-Lite. In my case, I used circuit 1 on the PDM60 for my Hyper-Lite power (it is pre-programmed to be switched power with a 7 second delay and instant off so it’s fine for the Hyper-Lite).

I used the Hyper-Lite license plate bracket mounted on the lower section of the license plate to keep them distinct from the taillight assembly. Drill small holes through the plastic fender just behind the license plate/Hyper-Lite on each side to route the wires up to the area behind the taillight/under the passenger seat. As you follow the inside of the fender upward, there is a slit nearly the full width of the fender where two pieces meet just behind the taillight. You can route the Hyper-Light wires through this slit rather easily if you pry it open just a bit with your fingernails—it’s perfect access to where you need to make your connections! I discovered it when I was shining a flashlight around the tail to see the routing of wires back toward the front from the taillight. All worked well and on my ride today--my buddy on a ’13 RT told me he really likes the lights. Good luck!
 

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Good write-up and verifying the connections...especially the instant on/off wire. I have my Fuzeblocks FZ1 connected to the rear power outlet but, will make the change when I get home to the US next week.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I'm using the same lights with a Fuzeblock for power. Soon after connecting everything, I got an error code for lights. Anyone else see this?:confused:
I cannot speak to the Fuzeblock, and I have only ridden my bike 200 miles since the install of the HyperLite and PDM60 (no errors as of yet).

The PDM60 is powered directly from the battery and the ground goes directly to the battery too. The trigger wire that tells the PDM60 when the ignition is on is wired to the taillight power as described above. Although that taillight wire is 12 volts switched, it is not powering the PDM60, only telling it when the ignition is on, so it draws next to nothing. PDM60 instructions indicate it could be far less voltage than that to get the job done, but the taillight was the easiest switched power I could find, and was among the wires I uncovered when I removed a section of tape, so I used it.

I did not use the rear power socket 12 volt source for the switched power trigger because I use an OptiMate battery tender via the power port, and I did not want the HyperLite to be on when the OptiMate was in use. I considered the switched power for the heated passenger seat (as PadG suggests) for my switched power trigger, but could not easily identify which wire was the power lead for the passenger seat heat.
 

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I'm using the same lights with a Fuzeblock for power. Soon after connecting everything, I got an error code for lights. Anyone else see this?:confused:
Auxiliary fuse blocks need to get their "primary" power directly from the RT's battery. Sorry, my last post might have be confusing...but, I connect the FZ1's "switched" wire to the rear power outlet...the constant power feed comes from the RT's battery

I will relocate my switched wire from the rear power outlet to either the rear seat heater switch wire or the grey/red/yellow wire in the wire bundle heading to the rear tail light. This will give me a true instant off wire to my FZ1.
 

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Today I installed the Hyper-Lites, brake/turn/running.

BIG Thank You to Hype-Lite for picking up a phone and calling back when they say they will! In just that aspect alone I give them 9 out of 10!

My issue was "Gray/yellow is the brake light". I had no such color wire in the bundle I was working out of as documented here.

On my 2015 RT1200 RTW the wire is gray/black strip, and it has yellow dots on it as some of the other wires do.

After Hyper Lite called me, Mr. Hyper, in 3 mins it was a done deal.

I must have ran a Back_Off at one time as I did not remember these flashing so many times, as in many flashes! I cut the green to get out of continuous mode but is awhile before they stop flashing.

Anyone know a fix?

May be as simple as something between the cut ends of the green wire?

I do love them as they do get your attention for sure.

Just used as turn/brake they are bright.
 

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Today I installed the Hyper-Lites, brake/turn/running.

BIG Thank You to Hype-Lite for picking up a phone and calling back when they say they will! In just that aspect alone I give them 9 out of 10!

My issue was "Gray/yellow is the brake light". I had no such color wire in the bundle I was working out of as documented here.

On my 2015 RT1200 RTW the wire is gray/black strip, and it has yellow dots on it as some of the other wires do.

After Hyper Lite called me, Mr. Hyper, in 3 mins it was a done deal.

I must have ran a Back_Off at one time as I did not remember these flashing so many times, as in many flashes! I cut the green to get out of continuous mode but is awhile before they stop flashing.

Anyone know a fix?

May be as simple as something between the cut ends of the green wire?

I do love them as they do get your attention for sure.

Just used as turn/brake they are bright.
Yes, they have good customer service. I had a 16 LED block that 4 of the LED's stopped working and they sent a replacement out the same day I called them...

As far as the flashing, It was my understanding that if you cut the green wire that's looped into the control module that it would cause the lights to flash a few times and then go steady. Are you saying that you cut the green wire and it's not acting like this? If that's the case, you might have to call Hyperlites again to troubleshoot that problem.
 

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Yes, they have good customer service. I had a 16 LED block that 4 of the LED's stopped working and they sent a replacement out the same day I called them...

As far as the flashing, It was my understanding that if you cut the green wire that's looped into the control module that it would cause the lights to flash a few times and then go steady. Are you saying that you cut the green wire and it's not acting like this? If that's the case, you might have to call Hyperlites again to troubleshoot that problem.
Cut the green wire and that stops continuous flashing the whole time you are stopped. However it is not a 4 or 6 time flash and stop, it flashes for a set time period, so it is not flashes but time with the green wire cut. I forget the amount of time he told me but it is a lot of flashing.

I can live with annoying all behind me with it, but would do an easy fix to have it flash less time.
 

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I installed the 3Way Hyper-Lite (combination brake lights and turn signals) and the PDM60 on my 2014 RT yesterday. Hyper-Lite sent me the wrong instructions for my 2014 RT--even though they were labeled for the 2014 RT, they described a taillight assembly and process for another bike, so beware.

You don’t need to remove the luggage rack or the taillight if you follow bdfbeemer’s hint to get to the wires under the passenger seat. To paraphrase bdfbeemer: follow the wires back from the taillight to a workable area under the passenger seat. If you trace the wire back from the taillight you can access it by finding where the wire loom splits and a branch goes to the rear power socket and a branch heads to the taillight (thanks bdfbeemer). Carefully remove a section of the tape wrap, forward of this branch, to expose the wires you will need. The color scheme is:

Gray/yellow is the brake light
Gray/red/yellow is switched 12 volt for the taillight (instant on and off)
Brown is ground
Blue/gray is the right turn signal
Blue/red/gray is the left turn signal

I installed the PDM60 first and wired its power and ground straight to the battery. I used the gray wire with the red stripe and yellow marks as the switched trigger for the PDM60 (it’s the taillight power so it’s 12 volt instant on and instant off). If you are not using a PDM60 or fuse block, this switched power source will be your 12 volt source for the Hyper-Lite. In my case, I used circuit 1 on the PDM60 for my Hyper-Lite power (it is pre-programmed to be switched power with a 7 second delay and instant off so it’s fine for the Hyper-Lite).

I used the Hyper-Lite license plate bracket mounted on the lower section of the license plate to keep them distinct from the taillight assembly. Drill small holes through the plastic fender just behind the license plate/Hyper-Lite on each side to route the wires up to the area behind the taillight/under the passenger seat. As you follow the inside of the fender upward, there is a slit nearly the full width of the fender where two pieces meet just behind the taillight. You can route the Hyper-Light wires through this slit rather easily if you pry it open just a bit with your fingernails—it’s perfect access to where you need to make your connections! I discovered it when I was shining a flashlight around the tail to see the routing of wires back toward the front from the taillight. All worked well and on my ride today--my buddy on a ’13 RT told me he really likes the lights. Good luck!
I installed the Hyper-lite U32 Universal 16 LED Flashing Brake Light Kit on my 2016 RT. Also used the Hyper-lite mounting bracket. The Fuzeblock FZ-1 was used for the power source. Other post stated the Hyper-lites stay on for a few seconds after shut down, mine turn off as soon as the ignition is turned off. For the Fuzeblock Trigger or +VT power source I used the passenger power socket wire (Red /Green Stripes). No problems so far after 2 months and 1200 miles. I had Hyper-lites on my last bike for years and never had any problems.
 

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