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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2006 K1200LT that I just bought about a month ago. I have two remotes and the pin code on the security card. I have read the book several times and still cannot figure out how to start the bike without the remote control. I am concerned that if the remote gets lost or damaged I will be stranded. I am tired of carrying two remotes just in case. I really didn't want to disable it permanently. I'm just trying to prepare for the worst.
I count the flashes and turn the ignition on, when it gets to the digit I want, wait for the LED to go off and go to the next digit. After I get to the last number, the LED goes off, but it still will not start. The bike is in neutral, the emergency switch is in the run position, I even tried pulling the clutch in. It still will not start without the remote control. Does somebody know what I am missing?
 

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I reset my alarm so it wouldn't set itself automatically. I can set the alarm if I wish but I don't have to. I still lock my boxes with the fob and have the alarm off. I'm sure someone will chime in and give you a link. I had to set my alarm and then to the setup before it would work for me. I carry me extra fob and a spare battery in the oddments box on top............. :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
This document doesn't tell you how to start the bike without the key fob. It only tells you how to reprogram the system.
Keeping and extra key fob in the oddments box doesn't make sense to me for two reasons. 1; if you lose the other key fob and you locked the boxes with the remote, the key will not open the oddments box. 2; It kind of defeats the purpose of using the security system if you are leaving a key fob in the bike. I'm sure somebody could get into the oddments box easily if they weren't concerned about damaging the lid. This being said, I do realize they would still need the key to drive it away.
 

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jmhetzel said:
This document doesn't tell you how to start the bike without the key fob. It only tells you how to reprogram the system.
.
EXACTLY... it tells you how to reprogram they alarm system so you don't need the fob.
read it again. Set the immobilize off and the alarm off. ;)
 

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I keep a spare remote in one of the side cases, attached with HD Velcro to the top inner section. Not worried about it bouncing off, and since is generally out of site not too worried about it from security perspective. I do not keep it the oddments box because that seems fairly simple to pry open.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
But then I will not be able to use the immobilizer or the alarm, correct? I sill wanted to have that option, but then I am afraid to be stranded.
 

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No if you reprogram the alarm it just means that the normal mode will be immobilizer off UNLESS you set the alarm with the FOB. You can always set the alarm but with this mode you never have to use the FOB if you haven't set the alarm. It gives you the option to use the immobilizer instead of forcing you to use it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
jzeiler said:
No if you reprogram the alarm it just means that the normal mode will be immobilizer off UNLESS you set the alarm with the FOB. You can always set the alarm but with this mode you never have to use the FOB if you haven't set the alarm. It gives you the option to use the immobilizer instead of forcing you to use it.
So if I use the FOB to immobilize and turn the alarm on, then there isn't any way to start the bike if I lose the FOB then?
 

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It just changes the behavior of the alarm when you turn off the key.
Default is turn off the bike the alarm is not set, and the immobilizer is on.
You are going to reprogram it so when you turn off the bike the alarm is off and the immobilizer is also off.
Then you can stick the key in and hit the starter and you won't need the fob. That is unless you do something to cause it to go back to default.
 

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jmhetzel said:
So if I use the FOB to immobilize and turn the alarm on, then there isn't any way to start the bike if I lose the FOB then?
Yes if you park the bike at a store and set the alarm, then lose the FOB when you come back out you are stuck since the minute you turn the key on the alarm will sound and the bike will not start.

If there was an easy way to defeat the immobilizer - why would anyone ever want to use it?

Many just pull the alarm altogether but then you miss out on the remote locking feature. If you ever do get stuck you just have to pull the top case and the cover under it to get to the alarm. Then jump two sets of wires on the 12 pin connector and the bike will start.

I have my bike set up to have the immobilizer OFF. I usually lock everything with one push of the FOB. I rarely set the alarm except when I will be close to the bike and in an unsavory area where some one might mess with it. I don't think we have ever had a report of one stolen on this web site.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
jzeiler said:
Yes if you park the bike at a store and set the alarm, then lose the FOB when you come back out you are stuck since the minute you turn the key on the alarm will sound and the bike will not start.

If there was an easy way to defeat the immobilizer - why would anyone ever want to use it?

Many just pull the alarm altogether but then you miss out on the remote locking feature. If you ever do get stuck you just have to pull the top case and the cover under it to get to the alarm. Then jump two sets of wires on the 12 pin connector and the bike will start.

I have my bike set up to have the immobilizer OFF. I usually lock everything with one push of the FOB. I rarely set the alarm except when I will be close to the bike and in an unsavory area where some one might mess with it. I don't think we have ever had a report of one stolen on this web site.
Then what is the "Deactivating alarm function without remote control unit" section, on page 15 of my DWA Anti-Theft Alarm 5 book, used for then? I thought that is what the pin code was for. If not, then what is this pin number for, and why does the book recommend that I keep this card in a safe place?
 

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jmhetzel said:
Then what is the "Deactivating alarm function without remote control unit" section, on page 15 of my DWA Anti-Theft Alarm 5 book, used for then? I thought that is what the pin code was for. If not, then what is this pin number for, and why does the book recommend that I keep this card in a safe place?
Ok You got me but that only works one time. It is desinged to get you to the dealer so you can get a new FOB. That pprocedure with the code is just like hitting the FOB once. Far better to program the immobilizer to OFF than rely on that card every day.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
jzeiler said:
Ok You got me but that only works one time. It is desinged to get you to the dealer so you can get a new FOB. That pprocedure with the code is just like hitting the FOB once. Far better to program the immobilizer to OFF than rely on that card every day.
I just wanted to verify that I could start it without the key FOB just in case something happened. The problem is that, it will not start like that. It seems like I'm missing something. :confused:
 

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jmhetzel said:
I just wanted to verify that I could start it without the key FOB just in case something happened. The problem is that, it will not start like that. It seems like I'm missing something. :confused:
Using the emergency procedure you found you can get the bike going if something bad happened to the FOB. :)

I would say most of us do not use the FOB except to lock the luggage. This is a big 850 lb bike and there are not that many out there so kinda dumb and hard to try to take one for a unauthorized ride. Relax and enjoy the ride. :wave

As of the 2000 census there only 384 friends and family living in Valencia, Pa, you must know most of them and can keep a eye on the untrustworthy ones. :rotf:
 

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so, is this PIN needed to do an initial activation or access to the programming section of the alarm? And along this line, what is the actual input device where the PIN is entered? Is it part of the instrument panel/cluster? Also, is there a special/different lock cylinder for the models w/ OEM alarms?

Why I ask is because I thought I might want to buy a use OEM alarm and install it on my 99 model, but it's starting to sound like these things are more of a nuisance than a deterrent to theft.

What John says makes sense about the weight of the bike being a deterrent, but there are tow trucks to overcome this. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
bikerj said:
so, is this PIN needed to do an initial activation or access to the programming section of the alarm? And along this line, what is the actual input device where the PIN is entered? Is it part of the instrument panel/cluster? Also, is there a special/different lock cylinder for the models w/ OEM alarms?

Why I ask is because I thought I might want to buy a use OEM alarm and install it on my 99 model, but it's starting to sound like these things are more of a nuisance than a deterrent to theft.

What John says makes sense about the weight of the bike being a deterrent, but there are tow trucks to overcome this. ;)
No the PIN is not needed to do an initial activation or access to the programming section of the alarm.
The input device is to count the flashing LED (trip reset LED on the dash) and turn the key when the desired digit is reached.
I'm not sure about the lock cylinder being any different.
You might be better off adding an aftermarket alarm. It would probably be cheaper. I guess if they want it bad enough all they need to is cut the battery cable and flat bed it away. That is what insurance kicks in, unless me and my 45 catch up with them.
 

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I can certainly appreciate your concern of being stranded due to a lost or malfunctioning fob because it happened to me while away on vacation last week! I spent the morning in the ocean followed by a quick dip in the pool before realizing the key and fob were in my swimsuit pocket. Went directly to the bike and found that the fob was not working and therefore unable to start the engine. Assumed the fob was damaged by water but actually turned out that the battery died. Replaced the battery and all was well. The fob turns out to be very water resistant. Lesson learned was to keep spare battery in the top box and reprogram the alarm so the fob is not required to start bike (did that just this evening). I'll take my chances with the steering locked for security!
 

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1 fob attached to the ignition key by small cable tie. It sticks up and doesn't scratch the surround or obstruct the instrument panel view. Spare fob and key in RH pannier, secured to the (redundant) 6 stacker wiring loom. 1 spare key wired somewhere outside the bike for access to the cases (turn 45 degrees) in emergency, then get the other key and fob. Immobiliser disabled. Put the key in and start the engine - simple. 1 press of the left fob button - cases all locked. 2 presses of the left fob button - cases locked and alarm armed. 1 press of the right fob button - all disarmed and unlocked. I put new CR2032 battereis in both fobs annually at re-registration time. All works, nice and simple.
 
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