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Discussion Starter #1
Alright....my departure date is screaming towards me...and my bike is still in a 1000 pieces... :eek:

I bought the hitch second hand, and got the harness with it. I also got the original wiring directions. What I didn't get was the trailer plugs. So, I wired the harness into the bike's tail light as directions state. I ran the long red wire to my blue Sea fuse box...

Question 1: What amp fuse should I put on this lead?
Question 2: What is this lead for? As my turn signals and running lights work fine
without it connected.
Question 3: If not answered by Q2..Why do I not have brake lights on the
trailer? I have connected the long red lead to the positive terminal
to see if that would do it... it didn't :mad:


I had to use an aftermarket trailer plug to mount on my bike and to connect to the trailer. I used the standard 6 pole circular plugs.

Thanks in Advance guys!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hey there Raff

RaffyK said:
where does the red wire terminate at on the trailer?
The wire does not go to the trailer. It is the Dauntless Harness it goes behind the tail light. I removed the tail light and it just has the piggyback connections. Then it has the wires that go down to the plug that mounts to the hitch for the trailer to connect to. Then there is one lone red wire that says it goes to the battery with an inline fuse. Well the in-line fuse was not part of the deal. So, I am just going to wire it to the blue sea and go.

HOWEVER.... I have no brake lights.... But the lone red wire is to terminate on one end at the battery, and the other end to what looks like a relay or possibly an isolator.

I initially thought I could just take the trailer side plug apart and jump the Brake input to the Turn Signal inputs...so if the brakes were applied it would jump the current across to the turn signals and will work.... WRONG!! Didn't work... back fed current and it activates the hazards.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Not sure?

Raffy,
That red wire goes to a "small black box" that I mounted behind the tail light right next to the wiring harness for the tail light... If this is the "Isolator" then I have it.... if not... then I guess I don't and then what is the "black Box" that is on the harness?
 

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what type of trailer do you have ? i built my own.i could not get the lights to work right,the bike is 5 wire the trailer was 4 ,,so i added 3 new brake lights and used the red wire for that circuit through the isolator which gets its power from the battery..i believe its a 15 amp fuse
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Possibly the same

lenny said:
what type of trailer do you have ? i built my own.i could not get the lights to work right,the bike is 5 wire the trailer was 4 ,,so i added 3 new brake lights and used the red wire for that circuit through the isolator which gets its power from the battery..i believe its a 15 amp fuse

I am using the standard 4 wire connection from the trailer. LT, RT, Marker, & Ground.

The bike, as you mention is 5....

My tail lights light up with the lights, and the turn signals work....I just do not have turn signals.

I do have the isolator but not sure of it's operation.

The plug on the trailer is capable of a separate brake circuit, and it is operational. I am contemplating running a wire from the "Brake circuit" to the Turn Signals and just installing Diodes on them as well as the actual turn signal wires...would need to install 4 diodes to complete...

WHERE IS ARI????? He has been awful quiet that last couple weeks..
 

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:D
pieceofficer said:
Alright....my departure date is screaming towards me...and my bike is still in a 1000 pieces... :eek:

I bought the hitch second hand, and got the harness with it. I also got the original wiring directions. What I didn't get was the trailer plugs. So, I wired the harness into the bike's tail light as directions state. I ran the long red wire to my blue Sea fuse box...

Question 1: What amp fuse should I put on this lead?
Question 2: What is this lead for? As my turn signals and running lights work fine
without it connected.
Question 3: If not answered by Q2..Why do I not have brake lights on the
trailer? I have connected the long red lead to the positive terminal
to see if that would do it... it didn't :mad:


I had to use an aftermarket trailer plug to mount on my bike and to connect to the trailer. I used the standard 6 pole circular plugs.

Thanks in Advance guys!
Just set up and built one myself for our summer NW USA tour.
I've attached the Dauntless instructions for the LT hook up.

Unless you mount separate brake lights you will need a diode type adapter to go from 5 wires to 4. I simply installed 2 parallel LED brake lights on top of the tail lights and connected to the RED wire, much better visual braking effect.

I also ran and suggest the BOSH isolation relay kit to prevent any possible short to the delicate electronics. This powers the trailer from the battery through the relay contacts, the LT's brake/tail lights only send the control signal to the appropriate relay's coil.
No more than a 10 amp fuse is needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Have the directions

SmokinJoe said:
:D
Just set up and built one myself for our summer NW USA tour.
I've attached the Dauntless instructions for the LT hook up.

Unless you mount separate brake lights you will need a diode type adapter to go from 5 wires to 4. I simply installed 2 parallel LED brake lights on top of the tail lights and connected to the RED wire, much better visual braking effect.

I also ran and suggest the BOSH isolation relay kit to prevent any possible short to the delicate electronics. This powers the trailer from the battery through the relay contacts, the LT's brake/tail lights only send the control signal to the appropriate relay's coil.
No more than a 10 amp fuse is needed.
I have the directions, but it does not tell you one way or another how to convert it. To be honest...I am just about fed up with the trailer to begin with... I have poured countless hours in the sanding, priming, painting, new stainless screws, new wires from rear to front, new trailer plugs,...etc. At the end of the day and about and additional 300.00 later...it is just about to stress me to the point I leave the POS in the garage... :mad:

I have the isolator package bosch relay etc. that you mention....that really has nothing to do with the trailer stop lamps operation...it just pulls the power from the battery rather than the circuit...if I am correct anyway.

So, the ONLY thing I can think of doing is running 4 diodes into the trailer portion of the connection plug in series with the current. Running off of the stop lamp port to the two turn signal ports..again with Diodes in Series...and this should solve any backflow issues. As long as the diodes do not fail....if they did...it could be detrimental to the system.

If THAT doesn't seem right....or will work...then I am out of ideas. Other than putting new lights, running new wire..etc.

I am about 2k into this trip more than I want to be...and I haven't left yet!!! Making me now have to second guess EVERY single penny along the way.

As you can tell.... a little stressed!
:eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek:
 

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pieceofficer said:
I have the directions, but it does not tell you one way or another how to convert it. To be honest...I am just about fed up with the trailer to begin with... I have poured countless hours in the sanding, priming, painting, new stainless screws, new wires from rear to front, new trailer plugs,...etc. At the end of the day and about and additional 300.00 later...it is just about to stress me to the point I leave the POS in the garage... :mad:

I have the isolator package bosch relay etc. that you mention....that really has nothing to do with the trailer stop lamps operation...it just pulls the power from the battery rather than the circuit...if I am correct anyway.

So, the ONLY thing I can think of doing is running 4 diodes into the trailer portion of the connection plug in series with the current. Running off of the stop lamp port to the two turn signal ports..again with Diodes in Series...and this should solve any backflow issues. As long as the diodes do not fail....if they did...it could be detrimental to the system.

If THAT doesn't seem right....or will work...then I am out of ideas. Other than putting new lights, running new wire..etc.

I am about 2k into this trip more than I want to be...and I haven't left yet!!! Making me now have to second guess EVERY single penny along the way.

As you can tell.... a little stressed!
:eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek:
I bought my two dedicated LED brake lights from Walmart for 7.95 each. I fabricated and painted red two pieces of aluminum to bridge from the existing lights. Hooked them up to the RED wire you spoke of and made mine a 5 wire trailer. I did not like the adapter diode set up that my brother did on his Wing.
Love my trailer set up.
Good luck, the reward is just around the corner.
 

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Bill
What joe is telling you is what I and quite a few others who have tried to wire up trailers have learned the hard way,
A standard trailer wiring setup is 4 wires, ground, tail and 2 turn signal wires.
in automotive applications they just use both turn signals for brake lights,
you cannot do this with the LT because it has a seperate brake line circuit,
you have to seperate the turn signals from the brake light
which can't be done with a 4 wire setup,
the answer is like Joe said,
run a fifth wire and add a couple of brake lights to your trailer and you're done.
 
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