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Discussion Starter #1
So Ive torn it down pretty far but have a question. In all the videos I watched which were very helpful, I didnt see how to support the rear of the bike so I can pull off the center stand. Im not seeing and easy/safe way. Does someone have a picture of how I can safely do this?
 

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Wrencher Extraordinaire
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Here is how I do it. 2 x 4 under the sub frame with a conduit clamp on the side over one of the tabs so it does not slip out.

You removed a lot more stuff than you needed to but not enough to put the board it. You need to get the swing arm out of the way.
 

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I don’t have nearly as much experience as John does, so I’ll definitely follow his advice. I’m thinking that you should secure the front wheel though, before lifting the subframe or the bike may start rolling forward.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ah OK. I just returned my recalled jack stands to Harbor Freight so Ill have to get some new ones. Thanks guys.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Here is how I do it. 2 x 4 under the sub frame with a conduit clamp on the side over one of the tabs so it does not slip out.

You removed a lot more stuff than you needed to but not enough to put the board it. You need to get the swing arm out of the way.
Well as you can see how dirty everything is and also the surface rust. I figured I would take it down far enough to get it as clean as possible and also spray the frame to keep it from rusting anymore. Im also worried about the fuel injectors since it sat so long. May just replace all 4 as a precaution.
 

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Well as you can see how dirty everything is and also the surface rust. I figured I would take it down far enough to get it as clean as possible and also spray the frame to keep it from rusting anymore. Im also worried about the fuel injectors since it sat so long. May just replace all 4 as a precaution.
I kind of figured that given all the rust. + 1 on Mr Injector, fast service and fair price. I have sent four sets to him so far.

+1 on securing the front wheel as well. Either a metal wheel chock or if you are handy and can wood work here is one I built before I got a Baxley chock.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Making progress. Got the transmission out and the clutch is next. As you can see there is quite a bit of oil in the bell housing. No wonder it stopped moving under its own power. Can someone point me to the details on making the holding bar so I can get the clutch out. I searched and couldnt find anything.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
OK clutch is out. The friction plate is obviously ruined but the pressure plate and cover plate look really good. I cleaned them up and I dont see any cracks or signs of overheating. I think just replacing the friction plate is all I need. Plus the oil seals on rear of the engine. Im pretty sure the clutch must have been replaced at some point as it doesnt look an 82,000 mi clutch compared to looking at pics of a new one.
 

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Here are the dimensions for the bar.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I know this wont help you today but the next time I lift one I will make a video on how I do it. It is basically the same setup as John Z
Thanks. Your videos have been really helpful so far. Ive been using them for the whole process and wouldnt have been able to get this far without them. So far so good and Im almost there. Now going to order parts I need from Motor Works UK so I will be waiting a bit on parts.
 

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I think when you compare the new friction plate to the old one you'll realize they aren't that much different in thickness. I know I did, and my clutch had 130K on it.

GB
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Got my injectors back from Mr Injector and so glad I sent them off. One had 0 flow the rest were all low and he was able to get them all back to 100%. I also got in all new fuel lines and quick disconnects so everything will be replaced in the fuel system. The fuel pump is froze up so have to order that too.

I got the rear all put back together yesterday and installed the new rear brake pads. I pressed down on the rear brake to make sure it was working, (It was working before the teardown) and brake line right above the master cylinder split open. So I guess I will be ordering all new brake lines as I dont want to take a chance with the brakes.

This is definitely turning out to be more expensive than I thought, but since the bike was free I cant really complain too much.
 

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