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Help me if you can. I did the upgrade to the new cables. Old cables were in excellent condition after removal and inspection (dealer said they were ready to go) Changing the cables has it moments of aggrivation but went well. The new cables are MUCH smoother to operate and throttle snaps back upon release. I am glad I did the swap but have an issue, no cruise control. The new cables operate smoothly, they are routed correctly and no binding. The adjusters are at the fully slack position. I tied adjusting them out and no luck with the cruise.

I did the following :This procedure must be done exactly as follows while you monitor the "SET" light on the instrument cluster:

1) With the ignition switch OFF, switch on the cruise control. Press and hold the cruise control switch to the SET position and switch on the ignition switch (LIGHT)

2) Release the SET button (LIGHT GOES OFF), move the switch to the RESET position (LIGHT)


3) Release the button (LIGHT OFF) switch OFF the cruise control switch
(LIGHT)

4) Switch the cruise control switch back on (LIGHT OFF)


5) Rotate the throttle against the throttle stop (LIGHT), release the throttle (LIGHT OFF).


6) Pull the clutch lever (LIGHT), release the clutch lever (LIGHT OFF)


7) Pull the front brake lever, (LIGHT) release the lever (LIGHT OFF)


8) Push the foot brake pedal (LIGHT ON), hold for 5 seconds (LIGHT OFF), release foot brake pedal (LIGHT ON)


9) Rotate the rear wheel (LIGHT SHOULD GO OFF/ON)


10) Switch off the ignition.


All is OK till step 5. When I rotate the throttle no light!!! The cruise worked before I did the conversion. I still have all the tupperware off but did put the tank back on, also all the connectors that go to the stingray are disconected. Anybody got any ideas!!!! Thanks in advance...
 

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Mine acted similarly when I finished the install. A closer exam of the instructions I had mentioned a retaining clip for the cables. Of course it was missing (dealer installed the first replacement set), so I tie wrapped the cables to the point the clip was supposed to be in then adjusted the slack. Cruise has worked fine since.
 

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often when you out the L tupperware back on the cables get pushed in a little (see previous post on retainers) which activates the off-switch (it's a small switch by the throttle bodies which gets pushed in by the sheathing of the return throttle cable when you "overwhelm" the CC by closing the throttle. I've had this happen every third time or so after putting her back together. Sometimes when you put the tupperware on there actually is some binding at the cable tie in the lower triple clamp are which isn't there when the bike is still apart. Then you can just wiggle it a little without taking the tupperware back off and it will work fine.
"tupperware pressure" probably is the leading cause of CC problems
 

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You are rotating the throttle forward and not back toward you? It should push that little button in when activated (at throttle rail end) and let it back out when released.
 

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cables

Jinks said:
Mine acted similarly when I finished the install. A closer exam of the instructions I had mentioned a retaining clip for the cables. Of course it was missing (dealer installed the first replacement set), so I tie wrapped the cables to the point the clip was supposed to be in then adjusted the slack. Cruise has worked fine since.
which cable/s are you replacing? I am having trouble with my cc also (step 5). I just bought a 03 and the origional owner said he brought it back three times and everytime it worked for the dealer but when he would get it back it would not work so he gave up on it. my dealer said to listen for a click down on the left hand side. how do you know when the cable/s need replacing. is there one throttle cable and one cc cable? is the cc cable a two piece? can you lube the cables?
 

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Here is my posting from January 2005. It may be your problem. Mark Neblett figured this out.

When I had my cables replaced on my 2000lt, the dealer never got it adjusted right. The mechanic took the easy way out and said that it was a bad throttle stop micro switch. They ordered a new micro switch for the fuel rail but another mechanic later found that it was just out of adjustment. This mechanic had to remove the plastic a couple of times to get it to work. It was still not right. After three times with the dealer fooling with it, I stripped the bike down including having to lift the fuel tank and had Mark Neblett come over and fix it in under five minutes. To check to see if the throttle stop switch is hanging up, perform the following:
Turn the wheel all the way to the left, turn the throttle in the off direction and release, you should hear a clicking noise of the switch opening and closing. Now turn the wheel all the way to the right, and do the same steps. With either of these steps if you have to turn "on" the throttle to get the switch to click, than the switch is out of adjustment.
Here is a copy of Mark neblett's posting on August 21, 2004:
You basically need to remove the tupperware, the seat frame, and either remove the fuel tank or at least move it up/back far enough to get to the microswitch.

Once you have access to the switch, first verify the cables are locked into the clip on the top of the left fan housing. Take a T25 Torx bit and (1) loosen the rear one of the two screws holding the switch to its bracket, and then (2) loosen the front screw enough to push the switch toward the center of the bike about 2mm. The hole at the front end of the switch is elongated, so it will pivot about the rear screw. Note that there's not much space above the front T25 screw, so I use a T25 bit and a 1/4" open end wrench to turn the bit from the side.

Once you've moved the switch, tighten the front screw and verify proper operation by rotating the throttle between the "closed" and "cruise cotnrol off" positions. It should reliably click on/off every time. If it clicks on/off close to the end of the throttle travel range, readjust to put the "click" in the middle of the travel range.

Verify both switch screws are tight, then button it all back up.
 

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madejasmile said:
which cable/s are you replacing? I am having trouble with my cc also (step 5). I just bought a 03 and the origional owner said he brought it back three times and everytime it worked for the dealer but when he would get it back it would not work so he gave up on it. my dealer said to listen for a click down on the left hand side. how do you know when the cable/s need replacing. is there one throttle cable and one cc cable? is the cc cable a two piece? can you lube the cables?
We're talkin' about replacing the throttle cables. To be accurate there are two cables from the twist grip to the injectors. One, on the front of the grip is called the "throttle" cable & the one on the rear of the grip is the "idle" cable. It's a push/pull system. The "idle" cable has a tab intagrated that operates the cruise cut off switch. Maladjusted cables will prevent the cut off switch from disengaging.

Throttle cables need replacing when they become difficult to operate. BMW uses a strong return spring. That, combined with long cables & complicated routing puts a lot of strain on the cables. The early cables used a plastic guide at the twist grip & the extra strain on the cable tended to cut groves inside the guide resulting in more drag. The latest cables have metal guides.

There are two views on lubing the cables. BMW says no while others have lubed them & claim some success.
 

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i have run through the 10 step procedure but come to 8 and have problems - when i press the rear brake pedal light goes off but does not come back on when i lift foot off of break pedal along with a noise coming from the CC unit itself
 

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Here is a link to another thread with more detailed info on the system diagnostic.

http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=61130&highlight=cruise+control

Make sure you hold pressure on the rear brake pedal at least 5 seconds. If you don't do this it will not work correctly. Then the light should stay on solid until you spin the rear wheel.
I just replaced the 2 cables to the throttle last night and had problems myself.
The sound coming from the cruise control box is normal, (mine does that also).
I'm assuming the cruise was working until after the new cable install.
 

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reply to BUSTEDKNUCKLES and LWHENDERSON:

The link given earlier should bring you the YouTube video tutorial I did on this subject. In the same thread, I also include a document (in PDF format) that summarize the important points of the video. When sitting in the garage, the paper copy is more useful.

As stated earlier, it is important to wait 5 seconds at least for the SET light to go OFF, before you remove the pressure on the brake pedal. The video will help you find out if your brake pedal switch is behaving correctly.
 

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reply to BUSTEDKNUCKLES and LWHENDERSON

One more thing I forgot in my previous message.
Lately, a few exchanges with various members lead me to add a few notes after the 9 STEPS slide of the tutorial. When I update the video (YouTube does not make this easy), the new slide will contain this:

ADDITIONAL NOTES:
---------------------------------
In Step 1: if the red LED located inside the cruise switch does not illuminate, check the fuses under the seat.

In Step 7: after you release the rear brake pedal, you should see (and hear) the throttle grip move by itself. This will confirm that the cruise-control unit can pull its own cable leading to the throttle-bodies.

In Step 8: if your bike is a first generation K1200LT (1999-2001), the system is checking the response of the speed-sensor located on top of the rear drive. For all other models equipped with "EVO Integral ABS", the system is checking the response of the rear wheel ABS sensor. If the speed sensor is defective or intermittent on your k1200LT, it is quite probable that your speedometer will also be intermittent.
 

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sailor.......you did a great service making the video.
saved my bike from a lighter fluid bath last night...LOL
 

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well I failed to mention ,I just had the bike dwn for a clutch change which it didn't need(turned out to be a driveshaft problem) anyway the CC worked fine until all the other work was done (myself) at step 8 when I let off the brake pedal the set light comes on momentarly and then goes off .I have looked at the brake pedal switch and it appears fine this is my first k1200lt and I have a new 2009 lt right beside it. Once I get the CC fixed I will be selling the 2000 model for 5500.00 if anyone is interested :) 42850 miles
 

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:wave
lwhenderson said:
well I failed to mention ,I just had the bike dwn for a clutch change which it didn't need(turned out to be a driveshaft problem) anyway the CC worked fine until all the other work was done (myself) at step 8 when I let off the brake pedal the set light comes on momentarly and then goes off .I have looked at the brake pedal switch and it appears fine this is my first k1200lt and I have a new 2009 lt right beside it. Once I get the CC fixed I will be selling the 2000 model for 5500.00 if anyone is interested :) 42850 miles
 

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Oh My Golly! This site is sooooo incredible! I just finished a major 100K maintenance yesterday (new cables, all fluids, cam chain guide, new battery, mirrors (old one were really floppy), all filters, brake pads, etc.) and discovered my cruise control didn't work after I finished. I thought I errored on the cable replacement and thinking how much fun it was going to be removing all of the tupperware to adjust some switch deep in the bowels of the bike. airborneod, if you are still on this site, you're my new best friend. I did the cruise reset that you explained in the first post and, scazamm!, it's all better again!

I'm heading off tomorrow to the Grand Canyon and southern Utah for a week or so and was really disappointed that the cruise didn't work. Now I'm all smailes. Thanks folks!
 

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You know, though, when you think about it, it doesn't seem to be something that would be used often. I'm talking about the cruise control. However, the question is this, a bmw mechanic verified that the issue with my cc is a sensor adjustment on the cables from the throttle. Can the average person perform this task, or are certain tools needed ? I do own the Clymer and the BMW Repair Manual. Thank you.
 

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reply to TENROCKY:

The Clymer and the BMW shop manual do a fairly good job of explaining how to adjust both throttle cables (pull and return cables).

Where they both fail is: to explain how all those micro-switches are linked into the cruise-control and the problem they cause. Also, the "built-in" cruise-control diagnostic procedure is not documented in either manual - it is something that BMW has published internally to their dealer's network.

All this, lead me to make the Video tutorial about "How to troubleshoot the cruise-control on the K1200RS". Basically the same cruise-control as the K1200LT. There was a big gap (void ?) of knowledge and all the pieces of the puzzle had been published on various forums since 2002.

The link to the YouTube video and the summary in PDF format was published into another thread:
http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=61130
 

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anyone have any ideas on CC that won't make it through 10 step procedure-- my 2000 k1200LT makes it to step 8 , when I let up on the brake pedal light comes on for about1-2 sec and goes back off instead of staying on :confused: :confused:
 
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