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Discussion Starter #1
I've been trying to diagnose and fix a problem with my CC so I have been digging into the archives. It first started to not work in cold weather. Then it would shut off when I would hit a bump. Now it works every second Tuesday of the week and only for a very short time. In spite of the good reading I now find myself lost and confused.(Not a new place for me) I have tried the ten step procedure as described by Mark Neblett and all is good until #6 and after. On #6 I am to pull in the clutch lever to get the light-nope. Then each step after that is a negative response as well. Is this telling me that the switch at the clutch lever is bad or should I be looking for something else? I checked the adjustment on the throttle cables did a bit of a tweek and still got the same results. This is on a 06 LT.
Thanks for the response.
 

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Yes, common for the clutch switch to get out of adjustment. Easy fix.
 
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Yes, common for the clutch switch to get out of adjustment. Easy fix.
How did you adjust it? Mine had this same problem in Alaska. I looked at it briefly, but I could barely see the switch let alone see how to adjust it and really didn’t want to fully disassemble it in the field.
 

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I had to do it on the '02, so it has been a few years. IIRC, it took a fine bladed screwdriver and I just moved it a bit.

I searched for "clutch switch adjustment" and quickly found this:

Have you seen the video tutorial and the PDF document to help you with the cruise-control troubleshooting ?

See post #1 of this thread on same forum:
https://www.bmwlt.com/forums/k1200lt/61130-k1200rs-cruise-control-troubleshooting-tutorial.html

If cruise goes out (intermittent) when hitting bumps, is is most commonly caused by a loose clutch-lever micro-switch. As explained in Video and in PDF document, one of the difficulty lies with the fact that the Throttle micro-switch and the Clutch-lever micro-switch are on the same signal wire - thus when any of those 2 are not working correctly (stuck in the "clicked" position or defective), the diagnostic procedure will fail at the throttle step.

As shown in the video, you need to pay VERY CLOSE attention to WHEN and HOW they click based on the lever movement (or throttle movement) - you need a quiet environment to do this.

If it is the clutch micro-switch: review video beginning at 7:37 (min:sec) where the micro-switch location is shown - you will need to loosen single screw of the switch, do a small rotation of switch (not much is available) and re-tighten it. You need to hear the "click" of the switch after a small lever movement otherwise it will keep being hit too early. The wear in the lever pivot bushing is also a factor (as you have said) and may amplify the problem. In most cases, you can rotate the switch just a tiny amount to compensate. In the worst case, I have bent the metal tab of the switch, but this is a bit tricky as there is another switch and metal tab behind (for starter safety interlocks when in gear).

If it is the Throttle micro-switch: cable free play and cable routing is critical. Using a good flashlight, compare video behavior with yours when throttle is fully closed from rest position.

Let us know how it goes...
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John (Montreal, CANADA)
K1200RS (2002 IceBlue/Red - 96,000 miles)
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Think twice before you hit [SUBMIT REPLY] - famous quote by another member:
"The value of this board is not founded on dismissing the ideas of others, but by posting to share our experiences and what we've learned from them."
 

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I had to do it on the '02, so it has been a few years. IIRC, it took a fine bladed screwdriver and I just moved it a bit.

I searched for "clutch switch adjustment" and quickly found this:

Have you seen the video tutorial and the PDF document to help you with the cruise-control troubleshooting ?

See post #1 of this thread on same forum:
http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/k1200lt/...-tutorial.html

If cruise goes out (intermittent) when hitting bumps, is is most commonly caused by a loose clutch-lever micro-switch. As explained in Video and in PDF document, one of the difficulty lies with the fact that the Throttle micro-switch and the Clutch-lever micro-switch are on the same signal wire - thus when any of those 2 are not working correctly (stuck in the "clicked" position or defective), the diagnostic procedure will fail at the throttle step.

As shown in the video, you need to pay VERY CLOSE attention to WHEN and HOW they click based on the lever movement (or throttle movement) - you need a quiet environment to do this.

If it is the clutch micro-switch: review video beginning at 7:37 (min:sec) where the micro-switch location is shown - you will need to loosen single screw of the switch, do a small rotation of switch (not much is available) and re-tighten it. You need to hear the "click" of the switch after a small lever movement otherwise it will keep being hit too early. The wear in the lever pivot bushing is also a factor (as you have said) and may amplify the problem. In most cases, you can rotate the switch just a tiny amount to compensate. In the worst case, I have bent the metal tab of the switch, but this is a bit tricky as there is another switch and metal tab behind (for starter safety interlocks when in gear).

If it is the Throttle micro-switch: cable free play and cable routing is critical. Using a good flashlight, compare video behavior with yours when throttle is fully closed from rest position.

Let us know how it goes...
Share
|Like
__________________
-------------------------------------------------
John (Montreal, CANADA)
K1200RS (2002 IceBlue/Red - 96,000 miles)
-------------------------------------------------
Think twice before you hit [SUBMIT REPLY] - famous quote by another member:
"The value of this board is not founded on dismissing the ideas of others, but by posting to share our experiences and what we've learned from them."
I get a “page not found” on the link. Time to go searching...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the reply Alabrew. I have watched the video and read the instructions provided. That's how I found out that the clutch switch is the potential problem. I moved the switch over just a bit and I can hear the clicks but to no avail. I'm still not getting the proper response. I don't know how to check the switch itself to see if it's bad so I'll keep reading and prodding. Thanks again
 

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2005 K1200LT
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Here is where the switch connectors are. They are Normally Open and close (short) when operated.

When you slowly squeeze the lever you should hear two distinct clicks, one very early in the pull (Cruise cut out) and the second almost with the lever to the grip. If you are hearing the two clicks and it is still not working the switch is bad or the wires are shorted.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for the reply John. The clutch switch was definitely out of adjustment. I moved it over a bit and now I have the two clicks. I ran the 10 step diagnostic after that but it still fails at the clutch. Per the instructions I have changed up and pulled on the brake lever first and then the clutch. Neither work as far as having the light come on. In fact the light doesn't come on for any of the switches from the clutch on. This would be the clutch, the front brake, the rear brake and the rear wheel. All of those switches can be heard clicking. I have no way of road testing right now as I am waiting for my fuel injectors. When they arrive I will put the bike together enough for a road test and see what happens. I continue to scour through the archives as there is a wealth of information there. If I get it put back together and it works I'm going to run with it. If not I'll keep looking for the answer. I don't want to buy a $100.00 switch if I don't need it or worse don't really know that that's the problem.
Thanks again for the reply and help.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
OK, time for an update. I finally was able to trace the clutch micro switch to where it plugs in (Used up all of my allotted cuss words for that one). Tested it with the ohmmeter and found it to be bad. Have another on order(would have used more words for the price on that one but I was out). Good news is that the fuel injectors are done and on the way back. Hope to be up and running-with cruise- by sometime next week.

So Voyager.With you and I having the same symptoms on the cruise maybe yours is on the way out too.
 

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I had a similar experience with my 2002 LT. In my case, mine suffered the all too fatal Fuel Rail fire, only I caught it in time before it destroyed my baby. My Throttle Closed Microswitch was melted in the fire. I was not able to find a suitable replacement Microswitch at the time, so I modified a Micro-Micro switch that I had in my supplies of parts. These Microswitches are nothing more than a N.C. contact switch. The adjustment is to have the switch in the "open" state when the throttle is closed. The Clutch Microswitch is wired in series with the same circuit. i hope this helps.

BeemerBoy
 

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OK, time for an update. I finally was able to trace the clutch micro switch to where it plugs in (Used up all of my allotted cuss words for that one). Tested it with the ohmmeter and found it to be bad. Have another on order(would have used more words for the price on that one but I was out). Good news is that the fuel injectors are done and on the way back. Hope to be up and running-with cruise- by sometime next week.

So Voyager.With you and I having the same symptoms on the cruise maybe yours is on the way out too.
How do you know it is bad just testing at the connector? If the switch is maladjusted so that it isn’t being actuated, you can’t differentiate that from a bad switch by only measuring continuity at the connector. Are you sure it is clicking and being actuated?
 

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He was able to hear "both" clicks so he knew it was getting actuated. First one is the cruise cut out switch, second one is the start in gear enable switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
When I first did the listening test I could not hear the first click every time but could always hear the second. I adjusted the switch and could the hear both clicks every time. I then repeated the 10 step procedure per the Mark Neblett print out and still could only get positive results up to step six. I then did the continuity test. The first click(the CC) failed each time and the second click always passed. By the way you do not have to remove any tupperware from the bike to do the test. You just have to remove the switch from it's connecting plug and maybe cut a tie wrap or two to give yourself some slack in the cable for an easier reach.
 

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OK. I got the bike back together. Not without some missteps though. Put the injectors in and the gas tank on. I even put the tupperware back on( dummy,dummy, dummy). Fired the bike up only to have gas blowing everywhere out of the injectors. Soooo I took off the tupperware, the gas tank and the fuel rail only to find that I had put the clips that hold the injectors in backwards(Sometimes I just amaze me).
Got it all put back together and fired it up BEFORE I put the tupperware back on. All was good. Went out for a short test ride and to get gas. Bike runs smooth and I do believe that the cruise control is fixed. It's 50 degrees and I had no problems even going over bumps. Time to ride!
 

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OK. I got the bike back together. Not without some missteps though. Put the injectors in and the gas tank on. I even put the tupperware back on( dummy,dummy, dummy). Fired the bike up only to have gas blowing everywhere out of the injectors. Soooo I took off the tupperware, the gas tank and the fuel rail only to find that I had put the clips that hold the injectors in backwards(Sometimes I just amaze me).
Got it all put back together and fired it up BEFORE I put the tupperware back on. All was good. Went out for a short test ride and to get gas. Bike runs smooth and I do believe that the cruise control is fixed. It's 50 degrees and I had no problems even going over bumps. Time to ride!
What all did you have to remove to get to the switch? I just read the Clymer manual and it says to remove the heated grip and such and I can’t imagine that being needed. I am assuming maybe just removing the screws that hold the switch gear sections together and maybe snipping a few zip ties to loosen wires, but I haven’t tried to get into it yet. Did you need to remove the bar covers on the left?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Don't have to remove the grips. Remove the bar covers on the left side and the screws so you can take apart the housing and get to the switch.(be careful with this as I wound up with an extra screw when I was done and have no idea where it goes:smile:) I would leave the switch in there until you're ready to make the swap. There are two cables that need to be unplugged. One on the left and one on the right side of the forks. Because of the lack of room to work you might have to consider removing some tupperware. A real PITA unless you have tiny hands. There also seems to be an over abundance of cable ties up there. I did not try to duplicate where they were when I reassembled. Hard part is done. Plug in the two plugs and reroute the cables. Replace the switch, adjust and check it with the instructions here on the forum to make sure it's working- Then tie it down.(sorry I can't find my copy of the procedure) Since replacing the switch I have had 0 problems. 35 degrees or 75 degrees, bumps or smooth roads it works. Very happy with the results. Hope this helps.
 

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Don't have to remove the grips. Remove the bar covers on the left side and the screws so you can take apart the housing and get to the switch.(be careful with this as I wound up with an extra screw when I was done and have no idea where it goes:smile:) I would leave the switch in there until you're ready to make the swap. There are two cables that need to be unplugged. One on the left and one on the right side of the forks. Because of the lack of room to work you might have to consider removing some tupperware. A real PITA unless you have tiny hands. There also seems to be an over abundance of cable ties up there. I did not try to duplicate where they were when I reassembled. Hard part is done. Plug in the two plugs and reroute the cables. Replace the switch, adjust and check it with the instructions here on the forum to make sure it's working- Then tie it down.(sorry I can't find my copy of the procedure) Since replacing the switch I have had 0 problems. 35 degrees or 75 degrees, bumps or smooth roads it works. Very happy with the results. Hope this helps.
Thanks. I am hoping my switch is OK and just loose, but we shall see. Looks like a new one is the better part of $100. Sheesh. I may look for an aftermarket switch that I can just solder into the existing wiring. I would think this would be a fairly common micro switch, but then BMW does stand for Bikes Made Weird so who knows? :grin:
 
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