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Discussion Starter #1
It appears my breather is leaking and I'd like to replace it. I've seen several of the homemade versions that seem pretty easy to build. My question is how much do I need to disconnect to get the TB off to access the breather manifold? I already have the air box off but obviously need more room. Are there any adjustments or calibration procedures that need done once the TB is reinstalled?
 

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A home made one might be the ticket. Here is a a thread that will help. Takes time of course because it is deep. Go slow. Big thing is to watch the clips on the intake manifold if you remove it, you don't want them to interfere with the throttle linkage. Check this before closing up. Also buy a long handled set of heavy duty needle nose pliers for some of the clips on the intake parts. There is a trick to get them off and back on.
crankcase breather - I-BMW.com
 

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My suggestion is before disassembly, to take lots of pics. Both close up and back away a little. Good luck.
 

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Definitely take pictures of the cable and wire and hose routing, before you pull off the fuel rail and TB. I made my own from 3/8 copper tube, a T joint, some 1/4 in brass hose barbs and a couple of caps There is a stubby version that is easier to build that uses one cap, the 1/4 in hose barbs and a short piece of 3/8 copper tubing.

If you are handy with some tools and a soldering torch, it is not hard to make. You can find a breather hose the right diameter at an auto parts store NOT heater hose. Somewhere on this site, there is a thread that outlines parts from Grainger that just threads together if you are not up to manufacturing your own.

I used a pair of long nose vise grips to put the clips back on. they apply more force more easily than the extra long needle nose pliers. As mentioned, if you do not get the screw clamps back the way they came off, they can interfere with the TB and jam it open.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Definitely take pictures of the cable and wire and hose routing, before you pull off the fuel rail and TB. I made my own from 3/8 copper tube, a T joint, some 1/4 in brass hose barbs and a couple of caps There is a stubby version that is easier to build that uses one cap, the 1/4 in hose barbs and a short piece of 3/8 copper tubing.

If you are handy with some tools and a soldering torch, it is not hard to make. You can find a breather hose the right diameter at an auto parts store NOT heater hose. Somewhere on this site, there is a thread that outlines parts from Grainger that just threads together if you are not up to manufacturing your own.

I used a pair of long nose vise grips to put the clips back on. they apply more force more easily than the extra long needle nose pliers. As mentioned, if you do not get the screw clamps back the way they came off, they can interfere with the TB and jam it open.
When I reinstall the fuel rail and TB do I need a GS 911? I haven't read the service manual to see if I need to calibrate anything or if it's just a physical installation.
 

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When I reinstall the fuel rail and TB do I need a GS 911? I haven't read the service manual to see if I need to calibrate anything or if it's just a physical installation.
As long as you don't turn any screws or bend any brackets, you should not need a GS911 to replace the breather. Some have pulled so hard on the bracket holding the TVA that they bent it a little and the bike didn't idle right when they got it back together.

When you do get the TB off, take a good look at the rubber bushings to make sure they are not cracking. A good time to replace them if they are. Vacuum leaks there can also cause idle and performance issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
As long as you don't turn any screws or bend any brackets, you should not need a GS911 to replace the breather. Some have pulled so hard on the bracket holding the TVA that they bent it a little and the bike didn't idle right when they got it back together.

When you do get the TB off, take a good look at the rubber bushings to make sure they are not cracking. A good time to replace them if they are. Vacuum leaks there can also cause idle and performance issues.
I've been reading the general consecous is to replace the prints and boots while you're there. Those add up and get pricey quick. Lol.
 

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I've been reading the general consecous is to replace the prints and boots while you're there. Those add up and get pricey quick. Lol.
You really do NOT want to go there twice anytime soon (remove Throttle-bodies)... unless you are a testing maniac like me ;-)
By the way, there is NO need to remove the Injectors and Fuel-Rail unless you have a problem related to these - the whole throttle-bodies assy can removed even with fuel-rail in place. Just a bit tricky to reach all clamps (below and above TB).

History of problems / maintenance on these K1200 with "brick-engine" clearly shows that ALL these rubber parts cause problems with age (8+ years) and should be all changed at same time while TB are removed:
(1) cranckase breather (4 into 1 rubber between engine and Throttle-bodies TB)

(2) Four rubber stubs under TB assy (between intake manifolds and TB)

(3) Four O-rings under intake manifolds (inspect manifolds surface for flatness)

(4) any small vacuum hose that looks old (these can be found cheap at any auto parts - bring one of white plastic "T" junction for size)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
You really do NOT want to go there twice anytime soon (remove Throttle-bodies)... unless you are a testing maniac like me ;-)
By the way, there is NO need to remove the Injectors and Fuel-Rail unless you have a problem related to these - the whole throttle-bodies assy can removed even with fuel-rail in place. Just a bit tricky to reach all clamps (below and above TB).

History of problems / maintenance on these K1200 with "brick-engine" clearly shows that ALL these rubber parts cause problems with age (8+ years) and should be all changed at same time while TB are removed:
(1) cranckase breather (4 into 1 rubber between engine and Throttle-bodies TB)

(2) Four rubber stubs under TB assy (between intake manifolds and TB)

(3) Four O-rings under intake manifolds (inspect manifolds surface for flatness)

(4) any small vacuum hose that looks old (these can be found cheap at any auto parts - bring one of white plastic "T" junction for size)
I appreciate the info. At 14 years old I've replaced a fair amount of rubber parts since I got it. It only makes sense to replace them while I'm there. now to make the parts list and call the dealer and visit my hardware store.
 

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I appreciate the info. At 14 years old I've replaced a fair amount of rubber parts since I got it. It only makes sense to replace them while I'm there. now to make the parts list and call the dealer and visit my hardware store.
Parts list from MAX-BMW web site:
(1) FOUR rubber sleeve / stubs (item 5, part no: 11 61 1 464 820):
MAX BMW Motorcycles - BMW Parts & Technical Diagrams - K1200LT 99-04 (89V3)

(2) from same diagram as above. FOUR O-RING (item 3, part no: 11 61 1 465 169):

(3) from same diagram as above: with a lot of care and a few tricks, you can re-use the FOUR special clamps, but better be safe and replace if you are not sure (item 6, part no: 13 54 1 465 098)

(4) Depending if you make your own 4-into-1 breather hose version, you will also need 1 of these and 4 clamps (item 5 and 6 in diagram below):
MAX BMW Motorcycles - BMW Parts & Technical Diagrams - K1200LT 99-04 (89V3)
 
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