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Discussion Starter #1
I've searched the forum and have found tons of troubleshootin' information, I'm not done troubleshootin' yet and there's still several possible factors....but dammit, I'm tired of wrenching and wanna ride!

1. good power, good crank, no start.
2. Bike ran fine yesterday afternoon with the tupperware off.
3. Before the 36 k service, I took a fuel can, pored it's remainder in one of the cars, siphoned all but a little bit out of the bike into the can.
3a. returned that gas to the bike after reinstalling the tupperware.
4. Can hear the fuel pump prime. Can see fuel circulating in the tank (the usual priming burp)
5. pulled the right side panel and the quick disconnects are firm

At this point, could be fuses, could be spark, could be clogged injectors, could be a popped fuel line (I replaced it at the service)

I'll look at it later as I ran out of day.
 

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It "sounds" like the fuel side is OK. Three things come to mind, though I am sure others will chime in.

1) Make sure all battery connections are tight.

2) Sadly, check the plug wires and be sure both ends are tight after the maint. and after the plastic went back on.

3) Also, since it is easy to pull or crimp a wire putting all the tupperware back on after a log day of fighting the anti-mainenance design of the LT; Look around and be sure that all the connectors are back together.
 

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Crank it over for a bit and pull a plug. If it's wet and smells like gas, you have no spark. If it's dry, you have no fuel. Before you get too excited though check your kill switch and make sure the sidestand is up. I have seen at least one BMW (one of mine) which cranks with the stand down but it kills the ignition.
 

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Fuel line QDs have correct orientation?
Line has slipped off fuel filter.
Filter (if replaced) installed to reverse fuel flow?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
edmann said:
I agree with dick, I would begin at the quick disconnects. Its easy to get those connected backwards.
Really? It looked Male - Female Female - Male to me....besides...it was runnin' fine before the tupperwear was reinstalled. ;)

I figger something broke (hoseclamp to fuel filter), something disconnected, or something clogged (possibly bad gas from the gascan)
 

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Well it is either spark or fuel and you know that already. I assume you checked kill switch,side stand. What about reverse switch?
Sorry but it sounds like another tupperware party to check out the spark and fuel. :(
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I figure this is the universe having a joke at my expense...I was so SMUG that I didn't have any left over screws!

Correct me if I'm wrong, but if any of the cutouts were active (sidestand, gear select, clutch, etc.) it wouldn't turn over, right?
 

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Rocketsled said:
I figure this is the universe having a joke at my expense...I was so SMUG that I didn't have any left over screws!

Correct me if I'm wrong, but if any of the cutouts were active (sidestand, gear select, clutch, etc.) it wouldn't turn over, right?
You are correct. Pull a plug and smell it. Either fuel or spark, but sounds like fuel to me...
 

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Dick said:
Fuel line QDs have correct orientation?
Line has slipped off fuel filter.
Filter (if replaced) installed to reverse fuel flow?
+1
 

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I'm going with Dick on this one. Either the fuel line slipped off the pump or the filter is reversed.... I had tried re-using one of the crimp type clamps on one of the hoses in the tank one time and ended up being towed home after I had ridden it a couple thousand miles. (only 25 miles from home at the time, luckily) :)
 

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If you can see fuel swirling around in the tank then perhaps the hose has come off the fuel filter...:(

My bet is the QD's

One of the quick disconnects can be backed out 1/8 of an inch and you'll have no fuel to the injectors.... This one I know from experience.. Push those disconnects together till they click.. Then pull on them to make sure they're locked.. If they're not locked they can back out just enough to shut off fuel flow... Man that was a long two hours on the side of the road..And finally the DUH !!!! Moment...

That's when I replaced the BMW plastic crap QD's with Jiffy Tite's..

John
 

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Discussion Starter #13
JPSpen said:
If you can see fuel swirling around in the tank then perhaps the hose has come off the fuel filter...:(
I don't have time right now to pull the other side (I'm 'on the clock'), but I DID have time to doublecheck the QD's...and in looking for a light I could shine down into the tank, I recalled the LED on my phone...right next to the camera. So I'm seeing this:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7039101241/

The click is moving the power cut switch to 'armed'...this doesn't seem like a whole lotta pressurised fuel to me...almost like it's the fuel coming back from the return circuit. But I'm working from a knowledge deficit here. :)

FWIW, when I pulled the fuel pump, the arrow on the metal was _180_ degrees away from the arrow on the tank. It had a BMW fuel filter and crimp clamps. I suspect it was a dealership install (doubtful it was factory original ay 36 k miles) I marked it with a makrsalot and made sure it went back in the same orientation it came out as. The QD lines match up.
 

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For a quick, easy and cheap check, spray some engine start in the intake under the front fairing, right side and see if it will kick. If it kicks, it's not electrical.

I also have an '05 and had a similar problem during a long ride (at the farthest point from home - over 1000 miles away on the trip) which kinda went away once I sprayed engine start in and got it going. I was not comfortable though coz I fixed nothing (other than a throttle body reset) and it kept running, so to ensure I "fix" my problem what I am in process of doing is:
  • Replacing my battery with an Odyssey - I doubt this is the problem but the battery looks original so it's time to replace it anyway
  • Checking for the alarm recall on an '05 which exhibits similar symptoms - done and not the issue on my bike
  • Replacing the fuel pump relay - most of the experts on this board felt this is the likely culprit because when the relays fail they fail intermittently (like "sticking" off and then coming on). I'm not sure so the old relay's going....
  • Checking the fuel hoses inside the fuel tank for cracks etc. as this also causes the symptoms you're stating (took me alot of digging on these boards to find that one)
  • Doing a cannisterectomy - just in case

But start with the engine start spray - $2.50 for the can and a 2-second spray into the air intake and you'll know whether it's electrical or fuel - no kick means it's electrical, kick means it's fuel. That's what I did 1000 miles from home and in my case it kicked (and reluctantly started for some reason). And I now carry the stuff with me in the tool kit.

Hope this helps - good luck!
 

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Rocketsled said:
My tank is near empty right now, so I went and looked into it while energizing, starting and running. Fuel movement looks exactly like your video, but, my fuel filter is further toward the rear of the tank and not inline with the inlet. The position of yours looks like it might interfere with filling. Also, cannot tell from your video, but I can see that my filter has the arrow pointing up. Doubt that helps much, but just FYI.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
smahon said:
My tank is near empty right now, so I went and looked into it while energizing, starting and running. Fuel movement looks exactly like your video, but, my fuel filter is further toward the rear of the tank and not inline with the inlet. The position of yours looks like it might interfere with filling. Also, cannot tell from your video, but I can see that my filter has the arrow pointing up. Doubt that helps much, but just FYI.
Rowie Good idea on the start spray, I'll give that a shot.

Smahon the filter towards the rear would jive with where the arrows say the whole assembly SHOULD be. If it comes to pulling the tank again, I'll set it back up the way the engineers wanted.
 

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That could very well be the return fuel from the fuel rail pressure regulator you are seeing. Next step is to undo the QD's and try again. If you still get the fuel swirl then you know a hose is off. If no swirl then a connector came loose some where (check the spark block).

After my clutch job the old girl would cough and spit above 3500 rpm. Finally traced it down to one injector connector that was not "locked" in place. It "looked" right but did not pass the tug test.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
F*($!

Removed the fairings, verified the plugs were dry and sparky, went to remove the fuel tank and BUSTED ONE OF THOSE CRAPPY PLASTIC DISCONNECTS.

Sigh.

So I have a rush order into BeemerBoneyard for the real ones.

In the meantime, I'll pull the fuelpump and verify everything inside the tank and hope I don't gas out the house.

Piss.
 

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Racer Parts Warehouse for the Jiffy Tite's.. I wouldn't use the BMW ones...

Plus they can get them to you fast...

Glad to see you found your hose off...

JOhn
 
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