[Randyjaco]

Today I took a 300-mile jaunt in east Texas and noticed on hard acceleration that I was getting some clutch slipping above 5K rpms. The bike is a 2017 R1200RT with 17K miles on it. It has led a pretty easy life and has no power mods. Last week I finished up my annual maintenance and otherwise, the bike is running great. Before I start buying clutch plates, I thought I would ask for some opinions.
I have made no

adjustments to the clutch lever and it engages about halfway through the range.
The only thing that comes to mind is the oil. It is the same oil I have always used and never caused problems before.
This clutch should not be slipping

 

[bandera]

That is the oil I used in my wife's Merc. I don't think it is compatible with your clutch. And I don't see the JASO MA2 rating.

 

[PhantomBlade]

Missing JASO/MA2 rating! Change immediately!

 

[beech]

You need to use a Motorcycle rated oil, as pointed out above you need to see that MA2 rating. And a full synthetic for that year bike. Looks like you were trying to go cheap, sorry, you need a better oil.

 

[The_real_hati]

It is the same oil I have always used and never caused problems before.

You really screwed the pooch... Because the bike's clutch is in the SAME oil, it HAS to be motorcycle specific with the correct additives for the clutch. Cars generally have dry clutches so the oil used in their engines does not make a difference. Just because it is fully synthetic, it does mean it is right. You will be lucky to have your clutch recover with an oil change to the correct grade and type.

 

[barryRT]

I almost made the same mistake.

 

[steveaikens]

Just because it is fully synthetic, it does mean it is right. You will be lucky to have your clutch recover with an oil change to the correct grade and type.

Absolutely, but you mean it is NOT right.

 

[Randyjaco]

Thanks guys. I will change the oil today

 

[realshelby]

Since there are almost NO incidents of clutch slippage in these bikes, and your clutch lever still feels the same ( yes, hydraulic self adjusts but there would still be a different feel if plates are bad), I think this may be one of the rare cases where friction modifiers have effected the plates. I would change to a JASO rated oil and run that for a while. Maybe change that early. Not sure if it will "fix" itself with just oil changes, but worth trying.

 

[gerhard]

I bet it has what use to be called friction modifiers in it, suppose to help extend engine life but not good for the wet clutch.

 

[The Welder]

For me it’s the BMW OEM Oil. Once a year oil change and filter. Maybe more pricier than some oils and filters, but it works for me. No issues. And I have to order online to boot. Or drive 4 1/2 hrs to nearest BMW dealer.

 

[pbsrides]

Thanks guys. I will change the oil today

I like this stuff Randy. I like the packaging too. I'll take it a little easier on you next time

 

[Audi403]

For me it’s the BMW OEM Oil. Once a year oil change and filter. Maybe more pricier than some oils and filters, but it works for me. No issues. And I have to order online to boot. Or drive 4 1/2 hrs to nearest BMW dealer.

I use the BMW oil as well. Motul 7100 would be my second choice, but it's no cheaper than the BMW stuff, so why bother.

 

[taran1900]

I use the BMW oil as well. Motul 7100 would be my second choice, but it's no cheaper than the BMW stuff, so why bother.

I use Motul 7100 4T 5W40 100% Synthetic Engine Oil 4 Liters (104087). It IS cheaper than the BMW Motorrad Advantec Ultimate oil. Three to six dollars less per quart. In the US.

 

[Audi403]

I use Motul 7100 4T 5W40 100% Synthetic Engine Oil 4 Liters (104087). It IS cheaper than the BMW Motorrad Advantec Ultimate oil. Three to six dollars less per quart. In the US.

I'll check the price at my dealer again the next time I'm there. I thought it was about the same price the last time that I was there.

 

[rtwiz]

Agree with all. Synthetic oil can be made so slick that wet clutches won't work right. There are even sometimes engine roller bearings that require a certain amount of "unslickness" to work properly. Too slick and the axle just turns without the balls roatating.

Agree that you should change to moto oil ASAP. The clutch may come back but it may take a while. I had the same thing happen with an Aprilia with wet clutch. Tried to use synth and it started to slip. I changed back to moto rated dino oil and it got better, but still some slipping. I ended up changing to a Barnett clutch and that fixed it. Wet clutches need wet clutch oil!

 

[demotors]

Generally speaking any oil to be used in a motorcycle engine/gearbox/wet clutch has to be a 4T oil. I'm not sure about JASO requirements. I worked in a major oil company Friction and Wear Lab for 24 years. 90% of our friction testing was in support of developing additive packages for ATF fluids. I honesty believe that developing automatic transmission fluids makes engine oil development look like kindergarten. The myriad of different frction materials used in automatic transmissions is mind boggling. Then throw in lock up torque converter clutches. The steel materials and how they interact with the friction materials used is another factor. Just changing the roughness of the steels can raise hell with how an auto trans shifts.

We also did our share of testing in support of development of add packs for 4T oils. The 4T oil has to satisfy the engines requirements for lubricaton, anti oxidation. anti wear, anti friction for optimum fuel economy PLUS work in the gearbox PLUS have the correct friction characteristics for the wet clutch! YEP: friction modifiers are all important.

How do you think your car or motorcycle engine would do if you put ATF in the crankcase? Probably better than putting synthetic engine oil in your Beemer's wet clutch. If your clutches friction plates are glazed you'll probably have to replace them.

Just My 2 cents worth.

Just My 2 centsc
eorth

 

[GoldenWest]

You need to use a Motorcycle rated oil, as pointed out above you need to see that MA2 rating. And a full synthetic for that year bike. Looks like you were trying to go cheap, sorry, you need a better oil.

The BMW wethead engine oil must be suitable to jointly lubricate the engine and transmission with a wet clutch.
A 4T oil with JASO MA2 rating applications (can be used in the wet clutch on K1200/1300, K1600, S1000RR/R/XR & R1200/1250W watercooled series bikes).

Engine Oil

 

[tvguy]

I use this USED TO BE cheap stuff... about $40 for a 6 pack. Now is $53 per 6 pack... Its $20.96 per quart ($0.66 per oz) if you buy just one... OUCH

It has the T4 and JASO MA-2 rating. Works well. Get a 6 pack from Amazon

 

[NoelCP]

Thanks guys. I will change the oil today

Randy, get the LiquiMoly mentioned in the thread if you can. It's PAO base oil, and does make a difference w/ shifting in a good way and I was completely convinced that could not be the case until I went back and forth between the Castrol product mentioned and it. I'm not a mechanic but my sense is you should be able to burn off the thin layer of slick on the clutch plates just by intentionally slipping the clutch a little more than you might otherwise as you're releasing the clutch from a start, thereby rubbing off a wee bit of surface each time. It will likely take multiple times but I bet it will restore full function in a fairly short time based on the idea the layer will be molecules thick and as I say as you slip the clutch you should be wearing that layer down a bit each time.