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Discussion Starter #1
It's time for a new clutch. In firth gear cruising around 4,500 RPM I can nail the throttle wide open and it starts slipping. No evidence of the slave cylinder leaking, I think after 70k miles it's wore out. I can't complain this is the first time I have ever had to do anything to the bike other than normal maintenance. Other than the clutch and slave cylinder what else should I replace while I have it a part? Where is the best place to order the parts? I have some Spiegler brake lines that I was going to install during my next 12K service that I will be installing while doing the clutch and I'm going to get some Wilber shocks as well. Any suggestions on were to buy the Wilbers shocks? Thanks for the advice.
 

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It's time for a new clutch. In firth gear cruising around 4,500 RPM I can nail the throttle wide open and it starts slipping. No evidence of the slave cylinder leaking, I think after 70k miles it's wore out. I can't complain this is the first time I have ever had to do anything to the bike other than normal maintenance. Other than the clutch and slave cylinder what else should I replace while I have it a part? Where is the best place to order the parts? I have some Spiegler brake lines that I was going to install during my next 12K service that I will be installing while doing the clutch and I'm going to get some Wilber shocks as well. Any suggestions on were to buy the Wilbers shocks? Thanks for the advice.
Hey Tim, not entirely new with 24 posts but welcome anyways.

Most people decide to refresh the seals from the rear main seal in the block back through the 3 main transmission seals, which includes the trans input and output shaft seal and the slave cylinder seal.

Most will recommend you use an aftermarket Viton O-ring to seal between the crankshaft and the clutch basket rather than the buna-N OEM O-ring. If you have been doing any reading, you will have come across that item mentioned often in other clutch threads as it has a higher operating temp and will last longer in the duty it is subjected to than the OEM.

Many here use MAX BMW and order the parts directly from them. I did and they are prompt and friendly. As another member here said, my favorite source of M&M's. ;)

Can't help you on the shocks. I will be looking for some at some point myself.
 

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Buy the Wilber shocks from Ted Porters beemer shop. Call him and he will talk you through what will work for you. He is good and so are the Wilbers.
As mentioned there is a wave of clutch jobs and rear seal/O-ring replacements. This is the time to change out a multitude of rubber parts in there. The crankcase breather tube, seals already mentioned, intake seals and others. Take photos, take notes, Use the Clymer manual. The other thing to keep in mind the pressure plate and clutch basket tend to wear in a dish shape. You need a straight edge to put across them to determine if you need new hard parts. If it is more than a few thousandths, spring for the parts. You will need a new spring plate too, also the nut and washer on the crank shaft. If you don't want to buy from your local dealer buy on line through their parts section with diagrams MAX bmw
Here is one thread of many that will let you know what is ahead.
GregRS's journey into seal territory - I-BMW.com
There are several threads on this forum with folks headed where you are going in just the past couple of months. If you want a Viton oring, send me your address. beech
 
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Discussion Starter #4
I have researched this forum and watched some of the youtube videos and think I'm ready to tackle my clutch. I have the majority of the tools or can make my own. If anyone has the 30mm cutaway socket they would like to sell or loan me I would really appreciate it. I should be ordering the parts soon.
 

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I have researched this forum and watched some of the youtube videos and think I'm ready to tackle my clutch. I have the majority of the tools or can make my own. If anyone has the 30mm cutaway socket they would like to sell or loan me I would really appreciate it. I should be ordering the parts soon.
Tim, I believe Beech makes them for sale. He posted a link on another recent clutch thread for someone also looking for the socket. Check this out if you don't want to make your own.

30mm deep socket with side window cut out - I-BMW Classifieds
 

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I bought an 05' with 98k miles as a project bike, it's my 3rd k1200lt. I bought the bike knowing it needed a clutch. The previous owner had started to replace the clutch, but barely got past the skin during the surgery before he realized he was in way over his head. I bought the bike on the cheap, and bought a 2003 parts bike the following week when I picked up a new Odyssey battery I had purchased from a local guy off of eBay.

I disassembled the parts bike to get the new clutch (2k mi) from it, along with copious accessories I'll be using on the 05'.

I just got to the clutch on the 05', and realize the clutch still isn't really that worn, but the rear main seal has failed, 2 of 3 transmission seals are leaking, and it looks like the clutch slave cylinder is leaking as well.

Questions:

I've read that a new clutch plate is 6 mm thick is this true?

I plan to use the nearly new clutch plate from the 03', but would the clutch plate that has been saturated in oil be of any use perhaps at a later date if it were cleaned (presumably with brake clean)?

Where can I purchase the seals that I need? I believe that I want the Viton variety.

Can the slave cylinder be rebuilt, or does it have to be replaced?

Also the sprag gear is apparently gummed up, I've read that they should be replaced, not cleaned, does anyone have a materials/parts list for this task?

Both bikes have well documented maintenance history most of which was done by bmw dealerships, other than some oil/air filter changes.

The 05' has a k & n (lifetime) air filter any thoughts about whether I should keep the k&n, or use the oem paper filter?

Any help is much appreciated! Dale
 

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I bought an 05' with 98k miles as a project bike, it's my 3rd k1200lt. I bought the bike knowing it needed a clutch. The previous owner had started to replace the clutch, but barely got past the skin during the surgery before he realized he was in way over his head. I bought the bike on the cheap, and bought a 2003 parts bike the following week when I picked up a new Odyssey battery I had purchased from a local guy off of eBay.

I disassembled the parts bike to get the new clutch (2k mi) from it, along with copious accessories I'll be using on the 05'.

I just got to the clutch on the 05', and realize the clutch still isn't really that worn, but the rear main seal has failed, 2 of 3 transmission seals are leaking, and it looks like the clutch slave cylinder is leaking as well.

Questions:

I've read that a new clutch plate is 6 mm thick is this true?

I plan to use the nearly new clutch plate from the 03', but would the clutch plate that has been saturated in oil be of any use perhaps at a later date if it were cleaned (presumably with brake clean)?

Where can I purchase the seals that I need? I believe that I want the Viton variety.

Can the slave cylinder be rebuilt, or does it have to be replaced?

Also the sprag gear is apparently gummed up, I've read that they should be replaced, not cleaned, does anyone have a materials/parts list for this task?

Both bikes have well documented maintenance history most of which was done by bmw dealerships, other than some oil/air filter changes.

The 05' has a k & n (lifetime) air filter any thoughts about whether I should keep the k&n, or use the oem paper filter?

Any help is much appreciated! Dale
Hey dale, Let me answer a couple of your questions.
1. Yes, the new thickness of a friction disk is 6mm

2. I have not read of anyone suffering a slave or O-ring failure to reuse a saturated OEM friction disk. They are porous and getting all the oil out would be difficult at best and with the work involved, I don't think i ahve read of anyone who has taken that chance. They also wear in a dish pattern so old and old would be a bad combination if they were not worn that way together. They just replace without a second thought. If the hard parts are not worn, they can be cleaned sufficiently and used with a new friction disk.

3. The seals you need can be found on MAX BMW. There are parts lists on several threads. I don't have one handy to post but they are not hard to locate and confirm current number and price on MAX.

If you want the Viton 19x4 O-ring which I think most here would strongly recommend over the OEM, you can PM me with your address and I will drop one in the mail or you can find them online with a search. I have a few spares from my order of a bag of 10.

4. There is no current rebuild kit for the slave cylinder i have heard or read about so buy new from Beemer boneyard. About $60 cheaper and IS the OEM replacement from the manufacturer while they last. Once gone, they will be dealer only.

5. Haven't messed with the sprag gear yet so no help there.

6. There are several threads dealing with the K&N filter. Most here will opt for the paper filter over the K&N siting less dirt through and more protection of the nikasil coating of the cylinders.
 
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Loose the K&N filter. OEM is excellent. There is a thread on ibmw about clutch plate thickness that I can not find. The issue came up because the person doing the work bought an aftermarket clutch disc and the thickness would not allow the proper throwout length to occur. I believe it was too thick. If there is any oil on the clutch friction disk get a new one. Lots of labor here to mess around.
 
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I thought as much on the clutch, but didn't want to waste unnecessarily. I also figured the oem filter would be better protection than the k&n. Thanks for the input!
 

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On the sprag unit you can clean it with a good carb cleaner or anything that will dissolve gum. Best to do this just before an oil change to get all the solvent out of the crankcase. In the cutaway photo you will see the sprag unit forward of the alternator. The middle ring has three holes in it and it is best to spray into each of those. Access by removing the crankcase cover.
 

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It's time for a new clutch. Where is the best place to order the parts?
Many on-line options. I have purchased from all these listed here. All have fast shipping.

https://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/DiagramsMain.aspx?vid=51717&vin=ZD73637

beemerboneyard has the OEM Clutch Slave for about $104. BMW motorcycle parts, BMW motorcycle, Used BMW motorcycle parts, BMW motorcycle salvage

The best prices I have found are from BikeBandit.com (Just no M&M's) Free Shipping after $100.
http://www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/2000-bmw-k1200lt/o/m66
 

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Hi there, new forum main page much better, been gone awhile from it. But got a question now.
My clutch does not slip when I goose it in 5th gear, it does however seem to slip (not always) under full throttle, merge highway etc. No doubt it must still be going right?
 

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There's really not enough info to say from my perspective. How many miles since clutch replacement?

Did you drill the weep holes? If so any leaks?

Was it strictly the friction clutch that was replaced? If not what was replaced?

I'm not certain of the process to properly bed in a clutch, or if it's even necessary, but I would do my best not to create unwarranted heat/friction until someone more knowledgeable is able to come in with all of the facts. I know that brake pads often become glazed if not properly bedded in which greatly reduces their friction.
 

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Hi there, new forum main page much better, been gone awhile from it. But got a question now.
My clutch does not slip when I goose it in 5th gear, it does however seem to slip (not always) under full throttle, merge highway etc. No doubt it must still be going right?

The proper test in 5th is get up to about 4,000 rpm in 5th and roll on the throttle. If the bike moves forward even with the rpms then the clutch is OK. If you are down shifting to pass and rolling the throttle on before the clutch is fully released it will slip. Always have your fingers off the clutch lever BEFORE you roll on the throttle.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I'm still needing the 30mm Cutaway socket if anyone has one they could sell or loan me I would appreciate it. I was told Beech sells them, I sent him a PM about a week a go and haven't got a response. I have all the parts and am ready to dive in.
 

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You can start taking it apart without the cut-away socket. PM me you snail mail and I'll loan you one of mine.
 

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I have them. I somehow missed your email, sorry. [email protected]
kit includes the window socket, 12mm allen wrench, some sealed capsules of blue Loctite and USPS priority mail. $30.

The whole engine seal/clutch replacement tool kit is available for free for a few weeks at a time. Postage each way via USPS priority mail is about $15, I send it to you, you send it back to me with $15 cash in side with the tools when finished. These are tools as mentioned in Clymers, rear main seal driver/set tool, rear main seal remover via slide hammer device if you have a slide hammer with a 5/8" shaft and other various things you would need to fabricate for the job. It includes a 19x4mm viton oring too.
 
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I got an estimate from a local (non-BMW) shop to do a clutch replacement for 10 hours labor ($750) and I supply the parts, which is way better than the $2K BMW estimate.

The problem is with all this other stuff everyone is recommending while in there. I don't think that's part of either estimate and I don't know how much additional labor would be required to do those seals, slave cylinder, etc.

I'm thinking of buying the Clymer manual to see if I think I can do this myself.

My question is are all the parts available as a kit or is there some consolidated list of part numbers somewhere for all this?

Regards
Michael
 

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I got an estimate from a local (non-BMW) shop to do a clutch replacement for 10 hours labor ($750) and I supply the parts, which is way better than the $2K BMW estimate.

The problem is with all this other stuff everyone is recommending while in there. I don't think that's part of either estimate and I don't know how much additional labor would be required to do those seals, slave cylinder, etc.

I'm thinking of buying the Clymer manual to see if I think I can do this myself.

My question is are all the parts available as a kit or is there some consolidated list of part numbers somewhere for all this?

Regards
Michael
Michael, I recently posted a list of things you could expect to replace while doing your own clutch replacement. It is not an exhaustive list of anything you could encounter like worn pivot bearings or pins but it is the clutch and major rotational seals you would want to refresh "while you are in there". It is enough of a bother to take it all apart that most decide to replace these things at the same time.

http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/k1200lt/146537-k1200lt-clutch-parts-list.html

In the above thread are pictures of the tools that aid in this process and diagrams of them are located on this site. The 30mm cut out socket is a must. Beech has the cutout socket and 12mm hex wrench as a kit to sell. There are a couple people here who loan out a complete tool set as long as you pay the postage if you are not able to make your own. The various videos on this site have tricks on how to set some of these seals without making the specific tools.

http://www.bmwlt.com/files/albums/userpics/15901/Special LT Tools.pdf

There are some good videos of this process so you can see how much work it is and if you want to do it yourself. It just takes time like you have mentioned for the 10 hours shop time and it will likely take you much longer. Look at post 3 in this thread for the link Beech has for a good walk through with lots of pretty pictures.

Good luck
 

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I only replace seals that are leaking and never just pre-emptively. Too many ways to mess them up. But then that is just me.
 
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