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Discussion Starter #1
Down to pulling trans for seal/clutch replacment. How far do I have to go with the air box throttle body connection? Should the air box be removed or can I leave it in place?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Great write up on the clutch removal process. Can't tell if there was any work needed around the air box or throttle bodies. Any idea if they need to be loosened or pulled off?
 

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You need to release the clamps that hold the intake tubes to the throttle bodies. If you don't, you won't be able to lower the engine. Trust me, those 4 little suckers WILL hold the engine up.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Frank,

Thank You...
 

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Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
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Since two of those are not screw clamps I decided to just remove the throttle bodies/airbox as a single unit (4 screw clamps) and suspend it out of the way (but you do have to undo the far end of the breather hose). Gives you a lot of room to lower the engine. Replacing the two front engine mount bolts with long 1/4 bolts also gives you some lateral swing to clear the frame.
 

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Miles of Smiles
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When I replaced my clutch, cylinder intake stubs #1 and #2 were snap type hose clamps #3 and #4 were screw type. Take careful note of their position as incorrect replacement can cause interference with full movement of the throttle. You can reuse the OEM snap types, but need a tool like a bullnose wire clipper to exert enough force to snap them into place.
Better off replacing them with screw type. Also the air box stubs can be removed from the air filter holder, but they are difficult to replace. As Joe said, but I used the shanks of 2 drill bits as they are smooth, about 8-10mm IIRC. Using this method will allow enough clearance and tilt for the rear of the gearbox to clear the frame.
I think it is better to think of raising the frame rather than lowering the engine. Start with the engine in place as low as is practical depending on how you have set up your stands. You need about 4 inches clearance to access the replacement clutch parts.
Enjoy.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks I've got the swing arm and cross member pulled. Ready to proceed with dropping engine and lifting frame just very worried of damage to throttle bodies/airbox connection and stretching the wire harness. Everything to this point has seemed to be pretty straight forward. Anymore word of wisdom are very appreciated.....
 

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Miles of Smiles
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You can also undo a bunch of cable ties too. That gives the wiring loom more slack to move in case you forget to undo something. I didn't remove the temp sense on the rear of the engine, but there was plenty of slack cable so no probs. The smaller connectors on the starter can be reached more easily after the frame has moved up about 2 inches. Likewise the speed sense hex key on the top of the trans. The throttle position transmitter on the rear of the throttle actuator is close to the frame but has enough clearance, at least on 2006 LT.
Enjoy.
 

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jzeiler said:
Since two of those are not screw clamps I decided to just remove the throttle bodies/airbox as a single unit (4 screw clamps) and suspend it out of the way (but you do have to undo the far end of the breather hose). Gives you a lot of room to lower the engine. Replacing the two front engine mount bolts with long 1/4 bolts also gives you some lateral swing to clear the frame.
yep...
probably the best way to go.

and as far as the boots holding up the engine..... yes they will.... and NO they won't.

don't ask..... :rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
So what does it entail removing the air box? I have come this far are we talking another 1/2-1hr. time to just get it out of the way? Would be nice to replace the breather hose.

Has anyone opened up their starters or alternaters to check brushes,bushings,armatures or just blow the dust and crap out of them?

Just want to knock out all the little annoying hassles while they are exposed.....
 

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2005 K1200LT
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Starters are pretty much bullet proof. You will suffer the spinning sprage clutch(due to varnish build up) way before the brushes crap out. I looked at my alternator brushes and they were fine.

If you want to replace the breather hose (wish I had done mine) just pull the entire throttle bodies off as an assembly. Makes it really easy to do just don't kink a throttle cable in the process because you won't discover it until you putting everything back together.
 

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Definitely do the breather hose and while you are at it replace your fuel lines inside and outside your fuel tank. The lines are almost ten years old and I guarantee the ones in your tank are loose.


John
 

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Discussion Starter #14
If you want to replace the breather hose (wish I had done mine) just pull the entire throttle bodies off as an assembly. Makes it really easy to do just don't kink a throttle cable in the process because you won't discover it until you putting everything back together.[/QUOTE]

John,

At 60k mi. we looking at throttle body clean and flush?

Again I really don't want to revisit this whole job for at least another 60k mi. or more.
 

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Down to the same place and apprehensive to pull all this stuff out separately. Pulling off the throttle bodies off as a unit sounds more appealing. So, there are 8 clamps i believe. 2 upper left are OEM snap type, 2 upper right are screw type. i believe there are 4 screw type as well below the upper 4. which clamp set do i remove?
 

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Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
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The lower 4 screw type will release the throttle bodies from the mounting bases. These are below the the rail that all the bodies are attached to.
 

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jzeiler said:
The lower 4 screw type will release the throttle bodies from the mounting bases. These are below the the rail that all the bodies are attached to.
Holly crap! Thanks for the pic! Ok so fuel rail, wiring harness over frame, and the throttle bodies all have to come off. Great! (my first time doing this). Then engine should drop down? Been at this on and off for a couple weeks now and feels never ending! Thanks so much for your help!

Luis
 

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You don't have to go that far in. I just choose to do it that way as I wanted to clean the area up. Should have changed the breather hose while I was in there. It does give you lots of room to move the engine around and replacing the two front mount bolts with long 1/4 inch bolts gives some lateral wiggle room as well.
 
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