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Discussion Starter #1
Well, I have had an oil leak in my LT now for about 10K mile or more. It is winter now and time to do a whole lot of maint. to the bike. I ordered a 24K service kit and new tires. So I think now would be the best time to fix this oil leak.
The bike has 60K on it right now and the clutch shows no signs of slipping, yes I have tested it according to the forum. However, I figure with this mileage it would be foolish to take it apart to replace the seal, and no do the clutch at the same time.
Where would you buy the clutch? Beemer Boneyard has a "better than stock" one for $105, BMW is $185 and odd vendor on-line has BMW for $175.
I will also need the Viton O-ring, where do I get that? And most likely the rear main seal? I did not see these listed on BB site.
Suggestions?
 

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I have only used parts from BMW. Just a note: Guess you are aware there is short list of mandatory parts to be replaced being there:

21 21 1 454 417 SCREW 0.02 6 $2.11

11 21 1 460 797 HEX NUT - M20X1,5 0.07 1 $9.98

11 21 1 460 797 was superseded by 11211460673.

11 21 1 460 696 COMPRESSION RING 0.02 1 $4.26ADD

11 21 1 460 456 O-RING - 19X4 1 $1.73A (this is that Viton?)

11 21 1 460 456 was superseded by 11211460467.

21 21 1 242 377 WASHER - A7,4 6 $0.60
 

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When my rear main seal started leaking at 64k, my BMW dealer replaced it with the clutch and slave cylinder. Attached is the list of parts they replaced. Just remember that the prices are from January 2006.
 

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The o-ring from BMW is not a viton o-ring. You can go on line and search seal /o-ring suppliers for the viton o-ring. Years ago I had to buy a pack of 5 not to expensive. Someone may chime in with a extra one for you.

Since you are digging in deep to the LT clutch on a 14 YO bike, inspecting assemblies as you tear down Pay close attention to the following.
Clutch line to slave cylinder the metal can corrode and may need replacement.I would replace the crankcase breather,slave cylinder,intake manifold o-rings,fuel injector o-rings,Transmission input shaft seal. Inspect generator brushes,@ 60 K they should be OK. I would pull the intermediate engine case housing the sprague (sp David S will police this 8^) ) clutch/Freewheel Cage and clean the bearing in solvent and reassemble. Be careful if you disassemble the sprague those small springs can jump like fleas . Dont ask me how I know, and note orientation of the freewheel cage in the case prior to removal. You do not want to reverse it.
Good Luck
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the input guys. It will help to have that list. I suspect that the clutch and pressure plate/cover are all ok, I have had no slipping at all, I have tried. So I hope to be able to just replace the clutch, mandatory parts and the seals in that area. My budget is super tight right now.
Does anyone sell the mandatory parts in kit form?
 

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Thanks for the input guys. It will help to have that list. I suspect that the clutch and pressure plate/cover are all ok, I have had no slipping at all, I have tried. So I hope to be able to just replace the clutch, mandatory parts and the seals in that area. My budget is super tight right now.
Does anyone sell the mandatory parts in kit form?
I have never seen any kit for the clutch job - neither from BMW or 3rd party. Your best bet/price for slave-cylinder and clutch-friction-plate is BeemerBoneyard. For the rest, you order piece-by-piece what you need from any BMW dealer.

I had very good service in the past using MAX-BMW by ordering online, however a recent thread reminded me that you can get 15% below retail by ordering online at "BMW of Countryside" - see this thread:
http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/k1200lt/106202-source-bmw-parts.html
 

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I just did a clutch job and you might as well replace the disk even if it isn't slipping. I re-stocked with a BBY Siebenrock better than stock clutch disc. By the was you 10% off if you are an MOA member. I am impressed with the way it was made compared to stock. I have a few Viton 19x4 o-rings left if you PM me an address I'll drop one in the mail to you. The pressure plate and cover can be reused if they don't show any abnormal wear, but I would get the spring at a minimum. The bolts and washers that hold it together (6) as well as the 30 mm nut and washer over the o-ring should also be replaced with new. Inspect the seals on the transmission and none are leaking you can leave them alone. Check the bearing on the end of the slave piston and if it is dry you should consider replacing the slave, other wise add some grease. Better to leave the reverse switches mounted to the F-R shaft and disconnect the harness when you remove the transmission. I usually leave the speed sensor in as well but undo the gear position sender.
 

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I live just south of Portland, where are you? I have a lot of good used parts and tools to do the job.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I live just south of Portland, where are you? I have a lot of good used parts and tools to do the job.
I live in Graham, not too far from Olympia, few hours from Portland. What do you have?
 

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