Hey guys just wondering what's the average life of a clutch assembly on the iconic LT .Just asking cause mine has slipped every now and then for a long time and I don't want to get stuck somewhere and have it towed home....
When you say slips from time to time. The only reliable way to test for slippage is the fifth gear roll on test. Get up to highway speed in 5th, say 3,500 to 4,000 rpm and cob on the power. If you get an rpm increase with out the increase in speed then she slipping. Often a lot of feathering in a lower gear will produce a follow on slip but it is not an indication of a failing clutch.
Mine would fail the 5th gear test only once, then I would have to wait several minutes to do it again. I rode for several thousand miles like this with no slips in the lower gears. When I did change it it was very near the wear limit.
I feel I shortened the life when pulling my first trailer on a 6,000 mile trip as I feathered the clutch too much above 2,000 rpm to get the bike rolling with the trailer. I now make sure the clutch is fully engaged before I exceed 1,500 rpm and shoot for no more than 1,200 before I roll on the power.
I remember reading on this site a few years ago about a rider that left Chicago with a new clutch & by the time he got to LA Calif. he needed another one. It's all in how you slip the clutch when you engage it. I have 169,000 miles on my original clutch.
Zeke had over 200,000 miles on his when he replaced his & it still had friction material on the disc.
Chances are the clutch will fail for some reason other than wear...
Usually a seal or the Slave Cylinder fails and the clutch disk gets contaminated with one type of oil or another... Then it starts slipping in high gears... 4th and 5th...When it starts doing that.. Then it's time to go in and re-do everything...Replace every seal and the clutch disk...
But if that never happens.. The clutch will last a long time if treated properly...They're quite robust...
If abused.. Not so much...
If it's really slipping for whatever reason, Then it's time to replace the disk, Slave, And all the seals..
I had 218 on mine and still had 1 mm left. Had the alternator go out and since you have to drop the engine I did the clutch while there. No worn parts at all. Have the Siebenrock in there now for last 35 still running strong.
Thanks guys for the replies ,I was just out on mine today for a shake down run after doing some work on her and under load giving it a bit through some twisties she did the typical reved up and lost drive then I backed off for a few Kay's and it didn't do it again,but I didn't push it after the slip....Dunno it got me confused, I've got a four day ride this Friday to go on two up so I'm a touch skeptical .
Mine failed at about 28k miles, but it was the rear main seal that failed and FUBARed the clutch disc. Seal and/or slave failure seems to be the most common mode of failure, not clutch wear... Gunther must have been badly hung-over on the days he engineered the seals (and the FD assembly process, original throttle cables, etc)! :bmw:
If you notice it only while riding aggresive, you can probably baby it for a while. It will get worse and wrose. Eventually it will even start slipping enen while in cruise when the cruise control tries to increase the throttle to maintain speed. Mine happened over a long enough period I could pick a good time to have it done off season at 60K miles. I had a total rubuild so I figure I'm got till 120K miles. Good luck to you.
Clutch discs and brake pads are very similar materials and react the same to hard use. Hard stops and riding the brakes has the same effect as hard acceleration and slipping the clutch excessively. So while there's no absolute answer, if you ride your bike in a conservative manner and keep your fingers off the clutch lever except when actually shifting anybody should see at lest 100,000 miles from a clutch. Any seal leaks and all bets are off. Contamination probably kills many more clutches on these bikes than does wear and tear.
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