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No!! if it's slipping its rooted!! I hope you are not slipping the clutch to start off, it will overheat, do not throttle on until the clutch is fully released, if it slips under full throttle in top gear the it time to replace the clutch
 

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Is there any oil leaking from around the clutch housing? You may want to drill a small hole in the bottom of the bellhousing and see if you get any oil out. Make sure you are not drilling into the engine or transmission by mistake. You didn't mention your year and mileage but if it is slipping, it is either contaminated from oil or worn out. Clutch is auto adjusting hydraulic.

Edit, aded a pic of where this small hole would be drilled to check for oil in teh clutch cavity.
 

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When mine slipped, the rear main seal was leaking. I would get a tiny puddle under the bike every night without a weep hole created. I had to install 2 clutches because the first one was bad due to the rear main seal leak and the second went bad due to the bearing in the tranny tore up and the clutch was totally destroyed with gear oil. It came out in pieces. What a stinky contaminated mess!!! After that I replace all of the bearing in the tranny and replaced all of the transmission seals. All is well now.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
When mine slipped, the rear main seal was leaking. I would get a tiny puddle under the bike every night without a weep hole created. I had to install 2 clutches because the first one was bad due to the rear main seal leak and the second went bad due to the bearing in the tranny tore up and the clutch was totally destroyed with gear oil. It came out in pieces. What a stinky contaminated mess!!! After that I replace all of the bearing in the tranny and replaced all of the transmission seals. All is well now.
So while I'm in there just replace every seal in sight, make it like new and avoid any come backs
 

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So while I'm in there just replace every seal in sight, make it like new and avoid any come backs
That is generally the idea, or at least a subset of those known to eventually fail and ruin your day. There is an O-ring that seals the clutch hosing around the inside of the output shaft and this should be replaced with a Viton one as the standard deteriorates with the high heat in that area and age and in many cases is the source of oil contamination of the clutch, not the rear main. Several people on the forum will send you one of those should you venture in.
 

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That's what I thought. I was just hoping.

It's a 2000 with 30K on it.
Do you have a mechanical or hydraulic clutch? My RT is a 2000 and it started slipping on me. Turned out that the clutch cable was binding. I replaced the cable, performed the adjustment and it's ran perfect since.
 

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Do you have a mechanical or hydraulic clutch? My RT is a 2000 and it started slipping on me. Turned out that the clutch cable was binding. I replaced the cable, performed the adjustment and it's ran perfect since.
LT is hydraulic. No adjustment.
 

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If you want a Viton Oring I'll send you one. I have the tools Clymer manual says to make that will help you. I lend those out.
Here is some reading for you on how to approach this job:
http://www.i-bmw.com/showthread.php?t=38451
Parts will run you 4-600$ for a first class job. You will save many hundreds in shop labor costs if you are able to tackle it. Then you will have your great bike back in good condition for many more years of riding.
 

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If you want a Viton Oring I'll send you one. I have the tools Clymer manual says to make that will help you. I lend those out.
Here is some reading for you on how to approach this job:
http://www.i-bmw.com/showthread.php?t=38451
Parts will run you 4-600$ for a first class job. You will save many hundreds in shop labor costs if you are able to tackle it. Then you will have your great bike back in good condition for many more years of riding.
I thought parts were more like $1000.00.Anyone have a current source.I bought a 2004LT when my 2001 LT started leaking.It's been on the lift for 2 years.Started tearing it down last week.Also would like to get some of those fancy o rings.
 

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I thought parts were more like $1000.00.Anyone have a current source.I bought a 2004LT when my 2001 LT started leaking.It's been on the lift for 2 years.Started tearing it down last week.Also would like to get some of those fancy o rings.
I think it depends if you order them yourself online or through the dealer. If I remember correctly I was quoted around 6-700 for parts.
 

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I thought parts were more like $1000.00.Anyone have a current source.I bought a 2004LT when my 2001 LT started leaking.It's been on the lift for 2 years.Started tearing it down last week.Also would like to get some of those fancy o rings.
If you replace everything including the major trans seals, it in March of last year was 954.46 plus tax and shipping from Max BMW based on a list I made then. It is likely more now but some things you may not have to replace. You can see the list at the link below. My pressure plate and housing cover had some dishing but not so much that I felt I needed to replace them. I did however replace the diaphragm spring and everything else on the list. I went with the oil resistant clutch from BBY over the OEM listed.


http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/k1200lt/146537-k1200lt-clutch-parts-list.html
 

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Thanks for the list.I guess I need to do some reading on how to check the pressure plate and housing cover.
 

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Thanks for the list.I guess I need to do some reading on how to check the pressure plate and housing cover.
It isn't difficult. A metal ruler or some other such straight edge that will reach across the radius of each is all you need. The wear that normally happens is called dishing and wears more in the inside than the outside. I think I had around 6 thousandths at the inner most point. It will have some bluing but if it wasn't severely overheated from slipping, it should clean up so you can get a good idea if any significant metal was moved around.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
If you want a Viton Oring I'll send you one. I have the tools Clymer manual says to make that will help you. I lend those out.
Here is some reading for you on how to approach this job:
http://www.i-bmw.com/showthread.php?t=38451
Parts will run you 4-600$ for a first class job. You will save many hundreds in shop labor costs if you are able to tackle it. Then you will have your great bike back in good condition for many more years of riding.
I'd like one, but I'm still probably 2 weeks from pulling everything apart. Then I'll asses all the parts I need. I've rebuilt many bikes but never a bike like this. My last new clutch rebuild was on a cr 250 it costs me $70 in parts and I just tipped the bike over and did it in 20 min :grin:

I'm always slow the first time because I'm cautious. Once I get to know things it goes quicker.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I thought parts were more like $1000.00.Anyone have a current source.I bought a 2004LT when my 2001 LT started leaking.It's been on the lift for 2 years.Started tearing it down last week.Also would like to get some of those fancy o rings.
Hey Chief we should start a thread with a build off. Document our progress and see who gets done first. I'll be tearing mine down in about 2 weeks
I know at least for me it would go quicker that way.

There's a place called beemerboneyard.com that has many of the replacement parts so you don't have to pay 1K in parts
 
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