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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Decided to push some clean Dot 4 through the Slave.

Not a bad job but a few surprises for me at least.

I post up only because some of this maintenance stuff sounded so complicated to me in the beginning.

I figure if I can post some "highlights" of my first adventures others can learn. I know all this is covered before, but Pictures are fun.

First off the bat for those who don't know, or figure it is no big deal, Dot 4 is water magnet to the max.



Next thing is the color. I was a bit surprised with 19,000 miles, and 2 years old, it would look like this. I think I will move it to a yearly schedule. Also weird lighting on the picture there was nothing physical in the reservoir.



I sucked out the old fluid with a turkey baster and cleaned it with the towel center and two corners, and the Q-Tips you see pictured here. I did then fill it and used my finger to rub the new fluid around some more Q-Tips and used the turkey baster to empty again.



Now I get to put a bleeder screw 10mm x 1 into this fitting on the end of the hose.



Forget about that! That is why you see it off in the above picture. NO way I could get a bleeder into that. Not professionally lined up but close enough. You can see the size of the grub screw that comes out of this fitting, the size of the bleeder tip, and the difference in size from the beginning of the threads and what would need to seat. Is Not Going To Happen!



By searching this forum I found you can remove the black end, insert a bleeder, and use it as regular caliper bleeder, turn it tight, pump, open it, hold, turn tight and repeat. This is how I got there. Mine was tough as stated on here, once I got a little turn I backed it off, turned again, back off, and it worked for me, BUT it was tight with lock-tite.



This is how I kept the hose higher and got it done. In both pics the hose is filled with clean Dot 4 up to the curve.



So not too bad. Messed with the bleeder and that fitting longer then I should have. Covered everything while working. Razor blade in the reservoir to stop the fountain.

I taped the level in the window but had no need as I see the level every day. Fist thing my dealer did was show me the clutch level and said "memorize that sight glass, and check it often". I took it to heart. In 19,000 mile is has not budged off a hair over the center dot. That is where I filled it too and checked it with the rubber in the reservoir.

While on the center stand I popped it into first and slowly released the clutch lever and had a friction zone, as I let the clutch out slowly the rear wheel started to spin.

I then started it and backed it off the lift just a bit down the drive and saw I could still had clutch actuation.

Took it for a spin all seems well. I had fun today. Next is coolant flush.
 

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Seriously... Buy a Mighty Vac from Harbor Freight.

It will suck the res. clean.
An will pull the fluid through the system in seconds.

Owning a Ducati, I have to change the fluid every few months due to high heat.
The Mighty Vac is one of the best tools that you can add to you box.

It will also make your brake flush a snap.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I am OK doing it without. It was no big deal except for the fitting,

I just did my brakes and ABS Unit manually with no issues so I am OK.

Thanks for the suggestion though.

Surprised you have one, I would think all your money is going to tires and side stands :rotf:
 

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Great pic's and detail.

I take it you replaced the fitting after the bleed. Did you have someone pump the clutch lever while you worked the bleeder or were you able to do both?

Any pic's of the ABS bleed?

Mugz
 

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Discussion Starter #7
No help. Once you get that black fitting off it will gravity flow. Just make sure the reservoir is full. You then can get the speed bleeder in and tight to stop the flow. Attach your hose with a high loop to help prevent air getting back in.

I then went to the left side of the bike and could pull the clutch lever, reach over and turn the bleeder until the lever went to the bar, turned the bleeder closed, pumped the lever a few times and repeated.

As I said the speed bleeder really becomes a regular bleeder in this set up, so I left it in. This has been proofed on this forum by guys with many more years then me. I would never want to fuss with that black fitting again.

I did not document the brake/ABS change but the thing I needed the most John supplied. It was the bleeder identification on the ABS Unit and it what sequence to bleed them.

I will find the link. Post #4. As always save them to your local computer in your K1200lt Maintenance Directory. Do a search for all brake flush procedures and download the PDF or DOC files to the same directory. Read them a bunch, but IMHO it is not too bad and I ran the hell out of DOT 4, it is cheap compared to an ABS unit, and I was not planning on going at it again for two years.

Hope this helps.

http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=46664


Mugszy said:
Great pic's and detail.

I take it you replaced the fitting after the bleed. Did you have someone pump the clutch lever while you worked the bleeder or were you able to do both?

Any pic's of the ABS bleed?

Mugz
 

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Lee, good jobs on the pic's and details, appreciate your contribution!
 

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Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
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The bleed nipple from the front caliper on non-itegral bikes fits the fill adapter quite well. While there is nothing wrong with removing the fill adapter, there is a risk of damage to the hose on older bikes if you are not careful.

PN 34212330310
 

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Discussion Starter #10
jzeiler said:
The bleed nipple from the front caliper on non-itegral bikes fits the fill adapter quite well. While there is nothing wrong with removing the fill adapter, there is a risk of damage to the hose on older bikes if you are not careful.

PN 34212330310
John coming through again. :D

I did see in one of the searches it was mentioned you could use older style bleed nipple, and probably by you!

By that time I was already in up to my elbows, and knew I had no chance of sourcing one at the time.

Nice to have the part number.

I did read the risk of the hose snapping but once it started back and forth I worked it off. I am sure on an older bike it would not be a good thing. One of the threads suggested heat to it, but again cautioned of hose damage.

You should know by now John I always end up doing stuff the long way around :p

Besides, think of the weight reduction :rolleyes:
 

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Hey Mike,

I sort of made my own with a mason jar and a standard vacuum pump that I already had. I could never tell if I had all the air out because it seemed to suck air from around the bleed nipple. How did you solve that issue? Grease around the nipple?
 

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I put a line wrench on the bleeder valve.
Then the hose and pump up the vacuum.
I open the valve, while pumping, when the res. starts to get empty, I close the valve.
Refill the res. and repeat.

The little air bubbles is usually air seeping past the threads of the valve.
If the air is from the hose, you need a tighter fitting hose. Either way the fliud should not have air.
Also, it is better to clean out the Res. add new fluid the pull new to the bleeder valve forcing the old into the container.
Don't completely drain the system, then ad new. This will introduce to much air into the system.
If you do drain the whole system, it is better to pump the fluid from the valve up to the RES.
The MightyVac has an adapter for every size of bleeder valve. Another bonus for owning a MightyVac.
 

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2005 K1200LT
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MikeERideWNC said:
The little air bubbles is usually air seeping past the threads of the valve.
That was the part I had trouble with during a bleed operation, not so concerned during a flush. It just never gave me much confidence to bleed with a vacuum as ther were always those tiny bubbles. I may try it next time with a little sticky grease around the base of the bleeder and see if that doesn't eliminate them pesky bubbles.

Thanks
 
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