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Discussion Starter #1
It's time to replace the clutch fluid. Clymer says right side tupperware and tank cover need to be removed. Is that necessary?

Tnx, Reid
 

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No need to remove the tank cover (or the Stingray as it's known here). Only need to remove the right lower section (known as the skirt). Then...about where your right lower shin would be when riding, you'll find the clutch bleed (grub) screw in black foam rubber padding zip-tied to the frame.
 

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Yeah.. the "bleed line" should be wiretied to the right "outrigger".. just under the black trim piece.
There is a plug you remove.. then there is a spring loaded ball sealing the hose... depress it with something rounded so you don't scratch the seal..

Have a friend pump the clutch lever slowly and gently as you flush...
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks...I've done the brakes b4 but didn't think I had to do so much tupperwaere for the cluuch....
 

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I just did mine this past weekend. I only had to remove the crash bar cover pieces to access the clutch bleed pipe. Its zip tied to the bar & has a foam cover as previously noted.

I pulled the BMW grub screw & installed a speed bleeder. Have one handy before you do this, unless you have what BMW uses...
 

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2005 K1200LT
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You can almost gravity flush the clutch if you hold the check ball in with a small wooden rod. Optimal to remove the handle bar cover and switch gear to loosen and level the reservoir, but not absolutley necessary. If you are going to pump be sure to lay something in the reservoir to keep the little "squirter" hole from spraying your tupperware with brake fluid. It does not take much fluid.
 

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jzeiler said:
You can almost gravity flush the clutch if you hold the check ball in with a small wooden rod. Optimal to remove the handle bar cover and switch gear to loosen and level the reservoir, but not absolutley necessary. If you are going to pump be sure to lay something in the reservoir to keep the little "squirter" hole from spraying your tupperware with brake fluid. It does not take much fluid.
You're using brake fluid in your clutch resevoir and lines?? I'd swear that it's supposed to be something like "mineral oil".......isn't it?
 

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2005 K1200LT
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PATTERSON said:
You're using brake fluid in your clutch resevoir and lines?? I'd swear that it's supposed to be something like "mineral oil".......isn't it?
Some of the newer BMW bikes are using mineral oil (the GT I believe) as well as some now come stock with the stainless steel lines that warrant a less frequent flush, but none of this applies to the LT model all years.
 

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Just be careful to avoid suck in air into the master cylinder, like I did this morning...
 

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jzeiler said:
If you are going to pump be sure to lay something in the reservoir to keep the little "squirter" hole from spraying your tupperware with brake fluid. It does not take much fluid.
Get a double or single edge razor blade... place it inside the reservoir to help prevent the spraying of fluid.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for the responses, guys. Good to know I only need to remove the trim to get at the hose. I did use the razor blade trick when I did my brakes...it works like a charm otherwise it's spurt spurt spurt every time the lever is depressed/opened. Now if I can just train one of the dogs to work the clutch lever.
 

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I know this is an old thread but the info is up to date and right on the money.
This is what I was hoping to do today and was able to do it right the first time thanks to all of you here on this site providing your wealth of knowledge and expertise.
I love this forum.

Thank you all
TOM G.
 

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Just used this method yesterday to replace and clean my clutch fluid on a 2000 LT. Wow was this information helpful! You guys saved me a ton of time. I also have the maintenance manual that has you taking 1/2 of the bike apart. Maybe not 1/2 but lots of the fairing.

Removing the side panels over the drop bar exposed the bleeding hose and allowed me to do the job in about 30-45 minutes.

Thank you!!

Larry
 

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Reviving an old thread to add another tip...

Safer than a razor blade, put a small pice of an empty plastic oil bottle in the res to stop the squirting. I have also heard of folks using a quarter for the same purpose.

If you opt to use a Speed Bleeder (1010S), as I have, you will have to remove the BMW fitting. You MUST heat the fitting to loosen the threadlocker, then use two wrenches to loosen, re-heat, loosen some more, and repeat until you have the BMW fitting off. IF you choose to try to do it without heat, you will likely break something.

SpeedBleeder works great, and makes it truly a one person job!
 

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speed bleeder = +1
 
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