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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Tearing down 1st of year to do a clutch replacement, weep hole drilling, rear main seal, etc. Bike has 57K and no problems now (that I know of), so this is PM. My main question is does there exist on this site a single best thread that lists all the parts needed? I'm OK to do some keyword searches but was hoping someone has a handy bookmark they can share. Also, anyone feel free to throw in any advice on tips and tricks you've encountered doing your own clutch

John Z has mentioned a previous member 'BlauBeeMr' that had a great write up on parts list for the job, but I'm not finding that exact resource.
Found a pretty good list of parts over at Clutch Replacement Parts?
I've also sourced the 'viton' o-ring from Amazon so I'm familiar with that.....and will use some of Kirk's YouTubes ,..those always come in handy(y)

thanks

Bj
 

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Here is a link to the BluaBeeMr write up Changing the clutch on the K1200LT

I think it also has a list. I never change a seal unless it is leaking. But rear main and a new Viton o-ring are the minimum I would get. MotoBins in the UK has the best prices (even with shippinb) on clutch stuff.
 
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Tearing down 1st of year to do a clutch replacement, weep hole drilling, rear main seal, etc. Bike has 57K and no problems now (that I know of), so this is PM. My main question is does there exist on this site a single best thread that lists all the parts needed? I'm OK to do some keyword searches but was hoping someone has a handy bookmark they can share. Also, anyone feel free to throw in any advice on tips and tricks you've encountered doing your own clutch

John Z has mentioned a previous member 'BlauBeeMr' that had a great write up on parts list for the job, but I'm not finding that exact resource.
Found a pretty good list of parts over at Clutch Replacement Parts?
I've also sourced the 'viton' o-ring from Amazon so I'm familiar with that.....and will use some of Kirk's YouTubes ,..those always come in handy(y)

thanks

Bj
Am I reading correctly that you don’t have a clutch issue at present? No slipping or oil leaking from the underside of the engine?
 

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Am I reading correctly that you don’t have a clutch issue at present? No slipping or oil leaking from the underside of the engine?
Good point Matt. I would only go in for a clutch job IF the bike was slipping on the 5th gear test or there was significant oil seepage under the engine. Not realistic to do one at 57K as a preventative measure.
 
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Tearing down 1st of year to do a clutch replacement, weep hole drilling, rear main seal, etc. Bike has 57K and no problems now (that I know of), so this is PM. My main question is does there exist on this site a single best thread that lists all the parts needed? I'm OK to do some keyword searches but was hoping someone has a handy bookmark they can share. Also, anyone feel free to throw in any advice on tips and tricks you've encountered doing your own clutch

John Z has mentioned a previous member 'BlauBeeMr' that had a great write up on parts list for the job, but I'm not finding that exact resource.
Found a pretty good list of parts over at Clutch Replacement Parts?
I've also sourced the 'viton' o-ring from Amazon so I'm familiar with that.....and will use some of Kirk's YouTubes ,..those always come in handy(y)

thanks

Bj
At only 57k miles, “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it”.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Guys, thanks for trying to talk me out of it, but I have the time and the means to do it now. I have big riding plans next summer. If I get in there and all is OK, I won't be too bummed. I'd still expect it's only a matter of time for service anyway. I'll have peace of mind and knowing the bike is ready for the next 57K miles .
Lastly, as a computer guy that rides a desk everyday, wrenching is a labor of love :cool:

thnx again
 

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As you dig into it pay close attention to the slave cylinder as you remove it. If it moves out quite a bit (1/2 inch or more ) after you remove the screws you clutch is very worn. If it does not move out more than a 1/4 inch then your clutch is in good shape wear wise.

DO NOT remove the FR switch assembly on the side of the transmission, just leave it on and unplug the connector. Too easy to break the micro switches in there.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Here is a link to the BluaBeeMr write up Changing the clutch on the K1200LT

I think it also has a list. I never change a seal unless it is leaking. But rear main and a new Viton o-ring are the minimum I would get. MotoBins in the UK has the best prices (even with shippinb) on clutch stuff.
Thanks very much for the Changing a Main Seal and Clutch Slave Cylinder Guide link. That's a gold mine of info
 

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I have done a few of these over the last 17 years so don't hesitate to reach out if you get stuck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I have done a few of these over the last 17 years so don't hesitate to reach out if you get stuck.
Thanks, much appreciated. I've watched Kirk's 3 part video series. Certainly a lot to disassemble for sure and will take time. Fortunately, I'm not in a hurry. In Kirk's video, the blue K1200 on the stand is a 2007 with only 37K miles, and the slave is already leaking, but not enough to have migrated through into the clutch space. With only 37K, the clutch was completely burned up, but to me that has a lot to do with driver habit(s). That bike did not show any main rear seal leakage. I'm the third owner of my bike and purchased with 52K, so I'm not sure what I'll find once in. My bike doesn't have any sign of oil at the bell housing, but I've seen posts where oil is leaking but not enough to show. The cases are not gasketed, but it is a well machined tight fit, so seems difficult to completely rule out a leak just because of no visible stain. What would the typical age/mileage be for rear mains to start leaking?
 

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Guys, thanks for trying to talk me out of it, but I have the time and the means to do it now. I have big riding plans next summer. If I get in there and all is OK, I won't be too bummed. I'd still expect it's only a matter of time for service anyway. I'll have peace of mind and knowing the bike is ready for the next 57K miles .
Lastly, as a computer guy that rides a desk everyday, wrenching is a labor of love :cool:

thnx again
I can understand that, just realize that there are a lot of things you can break while doing this “maintenance.” You can forget to unhook a sensor and break it or its wires. You can ruin the swing arm if one of the pins is seized and won’t come out (Kirk has a video on cutting the swing arm off with a Sawzall if that happens). You can break an exhaust header stud, etc. No way I would tackle this job without good reason even if I had time to spare. The chances of breaking an expensive part just to look at parts that are showing no signs of distress is just too high with this job.

However, if you decide to do it, there are a couple of threads in the forum that go through it. Mine was back in 2016 or thereabouts and is quite long, but then I did a number of other things in addition to fixing my slipping clutch. Definitely buy new OEM internal parts. I had my clutch rebuilt by Southland Clutch and that was a big mistake. They first messed up a rivet on the clutch disk and that had to be sent back for repair which took an extra 10 days or so. Then they apparently surfaced the pressure plate slight off axis given me a nasty shudder when engaging the clutch slowly. That shudder is nearly gone now after 40,000 miles of wear, but was a pain for the first 20,000 miles. No way I’d do this job without a good reason as there is just too much that can go wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I can understand that, just realize that there are a lot of things you can break while doing this “maintenance.” You can forget to unhook a sensor and break it or its wires. You can ruin the swing arm if one of the pins is seized and won’t come out (Kirk has a video on cutting the swing arm off with a Sawzall if that happens). You can break an exhaust header stud, etc. No way I would tackle this job without good reason even if I had time to spare. The chances of breaking an expensive part just to look at parts that are showing no signs of distress is just too high with this job.

However, if you decide to do it, there are a couple of threads in the forum that go through it. Mine was back in 2016 or thereabouts and is quite long, but then I did a number of other things in addition to fixing my slipping clutch. Definitely buy new OEM internal parts. I had my clutch rebuilt by Southland Clutch and that was a big mistake. They first messed up a rivet on the clutch disk and that had to be sent back for repair which took an extra 10 days or so. Then they apparently surfaced the pressure plate slight off axis given me a nasty shudder when engaging the clutch slowly. That shudder is nearly gone now after 40,000 miles of wear, but was a pain for the first 20,000 miles. No way I’d do this job without a good reason as there is just too much that can go wrong.
I can appreciate that, and yes always a possibility. I may take John Z's tip and go for slowly pulling the slave cylinder and gauge clutch disk wear. From that, decide to go in or not. In the mean time I'll search though this forum and online and try to get a consensus for when the rear main seal starts to fail. That will help factor in for sure on how far I go. If I find a pretty good consensus that rear mains are good for 100K, and turns out my disk wear isn't bad, maybe I will hold off a while. If rear seal typically goes at closer to 75K, then maybe I take the plunge

thanks
 

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I am afraid you will not find a consensus on rear mains but then they are usually not the fail point but rather the compressed o-ring on the output shaft. I have done two clutch jobs on my bike. The first one was my bad technique on the clutch while pulling a trailer and I literally shredded the disc. Too many RPMs before allowing the clutch to fully engage. It failed the 5th gear slip test on a cross country ride in August but it was manageable and I tore into it well after I got back in the dead of winter. The disc was still within wear limits but close to the edge. No seals were leaking but since I was in there I installed a new rear main, well I miss installed it and had to drive to Nashville to get another $50 seal. That was at 50 K. The second change was done "while I was in there" at 102K when I removed the transmission to replace a bad front input shaft bearing. No seals were leaking, but I did install (properly this time) a new rear main. Just sayin' this is my story.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I am afraid you will not find a consensus on rear mains but then they are usually not the fail point but rather the compressed o-ring on the output shaft. I have done two clutch jobs on my bike. The first one was my bad technique on the clutch while pulling a trailer and I literally shredded the disc. Too many RPMs before allowing the clutch to fully engage. It failed the 5th gear slip test on a cross country ride in August but it was manageable and I tore into it well after I got back in the dead of winter. The disc was still within wear limits but close to the edge. No seals were leaking but since I was in there I installed a new rear main, well I miss installed it and had to drive to Nashville to get another $50 seal. That was at 50 K. The second change was done "while I was in there" at 102K when I removed the transmission to replace a bad front input shaft bearing. No seals were leaking, but I did install (properly this time) a new rear main. Just sayin' this is my story.
Good to know,..thanks. That's the o-ring everybody says change to Viton?
 

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Yes. It seals the output shaft (in oil) to the clutch housing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
As you dig into it pay close attention to the slave cylinder as you remove it. If it moves out quite a bit (1/2 inch or more ) after you remove the screws you clutch is very worn. If it does not move out more than a 1/4 inch then your clutch is in good shape wear wise.

DO NOT remove the FR switch assembly on the side of the transmission, just leave it on and unplug the connector. Too easy to break the micro switches in there.
Pulled the slave cylinder today and looks like it backed out about 3/8". Also slight amount of fluid in the cavity. Gave it the smell test and almost certainly gear oil. Couple of drops worth worrying about?

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Pulled the slave cylinder today and looks like it backed out about 3/8". Also slight amount of fluid in the cavity. Gave it the smell test and almost certainly gear oil. Couple of drops worth worrying about?
Worry is probably too strong a word, but certainly something to be concerned about. The main reason is that a leak seldom fixes itself and at some point it will cause your clutch to start slipping. Now, I rode my LT for 20,000 miles past when I first detected clutch slippage, but when it got to where I could not safely pass other vehicles I decided it was time to bite the bullet and replace the clutch. A clutch slipping due to oil contamination seldom fails catastrophically, it just keeps getting worse and worse until the annoyance becomes a safety issue as you can no longer count on using full throttle.
 
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Worry is probably too strong a word, but certainly something to be concerned about. The main reason is that a leak seldom fixes itself and at some point it will cause your clutch to start slipping. Now, I rode my LT for 20,000 miles past when I first detected clutch slippage, but when it got to where I could not safely pass other vehicles I decided it was time to bite the bullet and replace the clutch. A clutch slipping due to oil contamination seldom fails catastrophically, it just keeps getting worse and worse until the annoyance becomes a safety issue as you can no longer count on using full throttle.
The push rod was dry and the slave was OK. I agree it's not going to fix itself. I would pull that seal but I've run out of time. I head to upper MI next week. I'm drilling the weep hole and will watch it. I also had a slight bit of oil at base of output shaft seal when I pulled the swingarm. Will replace all seals when I pull tranny for clutch job,..probably next year.
 
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