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Discussion Starter #1
Have notice recently that the "bite" of the clutch on my LT is very near the clutch lever in its rest position. Have searched the HoW but only found information regards clutch slipping but nothing about any way of adjusting. My basic thinking suggests it could be something to do with the clutch fluid level but I could be way off base here.

Has anyone got any idea's?

Thanks

John
 

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Cable adjustment

Tighten the cable?

Try the four positions with the adjuster knob/dial
 

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vvk said:
Tighten the cable?
Victor, you did not put a smiley after that. You know there is no cable on the LT. :D

vvk said:
Try the four positions with the adjuster knob/dial
That only adjusts the position of the handle for larger/smaller hands. It does nothing for the amount of travel from rest to clutch release.
 

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There are no adjustments for clutch release point. The only adjustment available is the lever position for larger/smaller hands using the 4 position dial on the handle.

Low fluid level would cause you to get air in the system, and you would have the opposite problem, high fluid level (which could happen if the clutch plate wore a lot) could possibly cause the fluid to still have pressure on it when the handle is all the way out, but that would likely cause clutch slipping.

Low fluid level is highly unlikely unless the slave cylinder has failed, then you would soon have a fluid contaminated clutch requiring the clutch plate to have to be replaced.
 

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Might be worth bleeding the clutch, just a suggestion. But in my experience as a motor mechanic in a former life, when either a car pedal comes all the way up before it bites, or a motorcycle with a single plate clutch, lever goes all the way out before biting, it tends to suggest that the clutch plate itself is worn thin. Age and mileage of the bike ?
 

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There IS a lever adjustment

At the base of the clutch lever -- the part that pushes the master cylinder piston into the cylinder -- there is a long screw. The piston end of the screw bears against the piston. The other end is a straight-slot head. Turning this screw out brings the clutch engagement point closer to the lever.

Here's the problem! -- The screw is held in place by RED locktite -- the sort that is designed to keep a screw from ever coming out. If you just start to twist the devil out of the screw, you're gar-un-teed to strip out the slot.

The *best* way to free the screw is to remove the lever and apply a significant amount of heat to the leverto soften the locktite. Removing the lever gets the heat away from all the plastic bits near the grip. You *might* be able to apply sufficient heat with a heat gun or hair drier in situ without damaging the palstic stuff, but I sure wouldn't guarantee it.
 

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I had my master cylinder apart once, and yes, there IS an adjustment, but have never heard of anyone actually using it to adjust for anything. I think that is only a factory assembly adjustment. I guess that since BMW cannot assemble final drives with any consistency though, misadjustment of the clutch stroke end adjustment could be expected. :D :D

You are right though, if you don't heat it to about 170-299 deg. F, you are very likely to damage something trying to adjust that screw.
 

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dshealey said:
I had my master cylinder apart once, and yes, there IS an adjustment, but have never heard of anyone actually using it to adjust for anything. I think that is only a factory assembly adjustment. I guess that since BMW cannot assemble final drives with any consistency though, misadjustment of the clutch stroke end adjustment could be expected. :D :D

You are right though, if you don't heat it to about 170-299 deg. F, you are very likely to damage something trying to adjust that screw.
It's useable, and unlike the same screw on the brake lever, there's no danger of "screwing" up the adjustment and burning out the Integral brake pump! :) I adjusted the screw on my R11RT, SWMBO's R1150GS, and (IIRC) my '00LT. It's enough of a pita to do the right way, that it hasn't been a priority on my '05 (figured I ought to attend to replacing my forks first! ;)).
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for advice, I really liked the one about the cable but may not go quite as far as adding one so I can adjust it. I did check the fluid levels but will double check. I will also take a look at heating the screw etc but will have to wait until next weekend.

I also need to gun the beast to see if I get any noticable slipping which from reading I see can happen with wear and seems to increase the level of fluid.
Will let you know how I get on.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Malki said:
Might be worth bleeding the clutch, just a suggestion. But in my experience as a motor mechanic in a former life, when either a car pedal comes all the way up before it bites, or a motorcycle with a single plate clutch, lever goes all the way out before biting, it tends to suggest that the clutch plate itself is worn thin. Age and mileage of the bike ?

Malki,

did not ignor your mail will consider after I have tried the other stuff which seems a little easier in my non mechanical mind. FYI, the bike is 2001 and completed about 15k miles.
 

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Due to it's general content I have moved this thread from 'Europe' to 'K1200LT'.
 

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John_S said:
FYI, the bike is 2001 and completed about 15k miles.
Unless you have *incredibly* abused the clutch, there's *no way* you could have worn away the clutch in 15K -- these clutches tend to go upwards of 100K before even showing significant wear, let alone getting down to the rivets.

Question: Have you noticed a definite *change* in clutch engagement position, or have you simply noticed "for the first time" that the engagement point is far out? Trying to figure out whether there's a problem to fix or simply an adjustment to be made.
 

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I have an 02 with 18k on the clock. I have noticed the same catch point
and have had the same thoughts.

I have considered the adjustment at the clutch handle, but everthing
would still be what it is. I would simply be disengaging the clutch less
to get the catch point in a more preferred spot of lever travel.

It's good to hear the 100k figures for a clutch though.
 

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I tend to agree with Mneblett, at 15k it should not be worn thin, unless abused. The bleeding thing, usually works the other way round for your symptoms. I.E. pull the lever in and can't get it into gear Etc. Tthere has got to be another explanation. I don't know enuff about the LT to suggest any more.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thought, I'd have a quick look (5 mins) at the bike and thought I would check the fluid levels of the clutch. Followed the instructions to get the bike and handlebars in the right position and there seemed to be an issue with the fluid level in the reservoir. Popped the top off the reservoir and got a river of fluid running down the bike (slight exaggeration). A number of hours later after stripping down part of the plastic, cleaning and washing the fluid from everywhere then refitting the plastic. I ran out of time to do any more investigating.
 
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