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Super Moderator
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1,401 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Anyone got a clutch alignment tool . . . they wouldn't mind lending out!!

Bike has 55,000 miles and I just tore the bike down due to replace an engine main seal going bad.
Caught it very early. All the other seals are good to go - the 2 on the transmission, the one for the starter
motor and the one on the clutch slave.

First comment:
Cannot believe how flimsy the main teflon seal is and see no reason for it leaking!! It's a single piece
of curved teflon without any memory support (spring)!!

Second comment:
Since I run synthetic oil is it possible that this oil may cause it to leak over the longrun as opposed to regular oils.
The reason I ask is that I saw no reason for the leak

BTW - I would be more than glad to pay for all shipping charges

I also have the special 30MM socket with 12mm allen wrench to lend out after I am all assembled.

Maybe there should be a list of tools and members willing to lend out tools - with the understanding that
you break it you buy it and the duration of lending should be reasonable? Just a thought!

Let me know

Dan
513 560-3832
 

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You can use the clutch push rod with a socket over it and it lines up the clutch perfectly while you tighten it down. I'll have to look back at what size I used, but the square drive hole fit snug on the push rod and I just found the right size socket to fit in the clutch opening.

Good Luck,
Dan
 

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Premium Member
Joined
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2,338 Posts
dfinazzo said:
Anyone got a clutch alignment tool . . . they wouldn't mind lending out!!

Bike has 55,000 miles and I just tore the bike down due to replace an engine main seal going bad.
Caught it very early. All the other seals are good to go - the 2 on the transmission, the one for the starter
motor and the one on the clutch slave.

First comment:
Cannot believe how flimsy the main teflon seal is and see no reason for it leaking!! It's a single piece
of curved teflon without any memory support (spring)!!

Second comment:
Since I run synthetic oil is it possible that this oil may cause it to leak over the longrun as opposed to regular oils.
The reason I ask is that I saw no reason for the leak

BTW - I would be more than glad to pay for all shipping charges

I also have the special 30MM socket with 12mm allen wrench to lend out after I am all assembled.

Maybe there should be a list of tools and members willing to lend out tools - with the understanding that
you break it you buy it and the duration of lending should be reasonable? Just a thought!

Let me know

Dan
513 560-3832
You mean this? I made my own tool and can make a new one anytime. A lathe is a wonderful machine to have in the shop. You can have this one for the shipping and pass it forward to the next DYI clutch installer. Send me a PM if you still need this tool.

 

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Just bolt it back up it will self align. I have done 4 clutch jobs on my Lt @ 240 K. I do have the BMW mandrill tool, every time I bolt it up the alignment is perfect. Just remember to follow shop instructions.
Good Luck
 

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Super Moderator
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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the feedback, offers and advice. Looks like I will try to use some simple tools laying around the garage and toolbox and go for it . . .

I just fabricated a piece of angle iron to hold the clutch plate as I prepare to go thru the funny torquing sequence . . .

140 nm
Back off set at 50 nm
Turn the nut 60 degrees ??
 

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Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
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14,097 Posts
dfinazzo said:
Thanks for the feedback, offers and advice. Looks like I will try to use some simple tools laying around the garage and toolbox and go for it . . .

I just fabricated a piece of angle iron to hold the clutch plate as I prepare to go thru the funny torquing sequence . . .

140 nm
Back off set at 50 nm
Turn the nut 60 degrees ??
60 degrees is one flat. I want to know just how they figured that sequence out.
 

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1999 LTC
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14,456 Posts
jzeiler said:
60 degrees is one flat. I want to know just how they figured that sequence out.
Heck, I'd like to know how they figger ANY torque setting? :confused: Crank on it 'til it breaks, then divide by two and subtract 1 rch and voila - publish!! :rolleyes:
 

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Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
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14,097 Posts
Dick said:
Crank on it 'til it breaks, then divide by two and subtract 1 rch and voila - publish!! :rolleyes:
You have just given out a top secrect BMW procedure. They will come for you in the night!!
 

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jzeiler said:
You have just given out a top secrect BMW procedure. They will come for you in the night!!
:histerica Butt, hey, aren't they s'posed to be on their way to wherever doomsday folks are going??? :rolleyes:
 

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murray said:
Just bolt it back up it will self align. I have done 4 clutch jobs on my Lt @ 240 K. I do have the BMW mandrill tool, every time I bolt it up the alignment is perfect. Just remember to follow shop instructions.
Good Luck

when you tighten the 6 aluminum bolts, should the clutch still spin freely. Mine does not spend. I just want to make sure that is ok.
 

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Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
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14,097 Posts
The bolts are not aluminum, they should be steel but the clutch housing is aluminum. The disc will not spin once the bolts are torqued.
 

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You are right they are steel. When the tranny mounts to the clutch, I am assuming that the clutch will be perfectly centered. By the way, Thanks for your help.
 

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I always just looked down the center of the clutch and lined it up by eye. Never used a tool to do it. A tool is great if you have it, but it is not "needed".
 

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1,490 Posts
I always just looked down the center of the clutch and lined it up by eye. Never used a tool to do it. A tool is great if you have it, but it is not "needed".
I made up a tool to help center the clutch. But I do check it by eye before I torque it down. The screws that hold it together are one use only. They stretched a little when they are torqued down. You need to put new ones in every time it is apart.
 

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Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
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14,097 Posts
If it looks like this you will be just fine.
 

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